saveasteading

Phase 1. It isnt the heating tank. It isnt hot and it is relatively dry around. There are 3 tanks, up on a platform for height. The timber has been wet for a long time. Access is tricky so I will clear space and the wet fibreglass. I may strip off the insulating jackets for access and visibility...they are severely mouse anyway. I'm assuming that there are 2 tanks for cold water because of volume and access constraints. We have just realised that this leak was first apparent after 2 weeks away, with no control heating. Up there after lunch. Any suggestions welcome. If there's a tech problem I'll get z plumber but they need access too.

If you use small crushed stone gravel ( not pea gravel) then it will store water in the gaps and allow it to flow to a drain. Bash some holes in the concrete base to give water an outlet, unless it already has somewhere to go. The downside is temporary. This stone won't compress well or lay level. So i would put a layer of membrane on it, then sharp sand.

As you surmise. The tap water isn't too hot. I will know tomorrow but I'm anticipating hot water in the header tank. Today can I just turn down the oil boiler temperature?

Water is coming through the ceiling, just about twice a day. Egg cupful? Soggy ceiling of course. It's right below the water tank and the header tank. It has happened before, years ago, and I think the plumber tweaked something. I think I heard pipes rumbling as if the water is overheating. I will head into the attic tomorrow. What am I looking for? I'm imagining hot water is spurting out of the overflow and splashing out. 1. I check that the pipe points into the tank and the lid is on 2.maybe needs a plumber to adjust boiler or hot tank settings. Any diy advice on this?

That's my concern too. Will it displace if you hose it, brush it, ir with the wind? Will gaps fill with insects?

Fixing structural reinforcement is a skill, and most builders don't have it. So choose cost or bodge. Plus the SE assessment and design. Strip footings are easy and is prob just 1m deep.

Good points. Lots of lime ruins taps etc. What sort of cost is the setup? And running?

It seems a waste to fliter water used for flushing.

I meant several one-offs as opposed to needing hundreds and every day.

It's just an inline filter isn't it?

If a one-off thing needs confirmation, then simply email it someone cc yourself. Then you can add a comment. That can fit in with family/ mates too. Hey John , we made a start at last. Dug this hole yesterday, got it approved by bco and concreted today. Sort of thing.

Depends on the soffit. Is it stiff and can pan that distance? You will have to fix it at the wall side too. A batten on the wall.

I said that earlier, and that I don't generally favour expanding foam. In some discussions where the advice isn't wanted I duck out.

The cost is relativaly small and it removes some concerns so ok. My quick and dry method of checking floors for level is a golf ball. Roll in several directions (across and diagonals) and see if it deviates. The official check for smoothness is a 3m staightedge. Lay it down and also rock it, to see how big any gaps are. Do it all over. 3mm is the limit on commercial floors and sensible on domestic too. But the pir and screed will overcome any bigger gaps.

Fix a triangular batten under the rafter against the fascia, and screw up into it?

I'm all for retaining slabs. Too many are broken out needlessly. 200mm is heavy industrial thickness for forklifts and racking. You can tell how flat it is simply by looking for puddles. A few mm is of no consequence. Why do you need a new dpm on top?

Denso is vaseline on a bandage. I expect it will soak into the plaster as an oily stain

That is warehouse spec. I'd say use that as perimeter as it has the building on it, but can reduce the middle to 6". I'd also like to have the walls overhanging the slab.

AAArrggh. Maybe it will be ok.....but expanding foam is used far too often because it is a quick bodge. Does the can say anything about heat / shrinkage /reactions against copper?

I've had awful problems with them. Egos exceeding their knowledge being the cause. I've always prevailed but it wasn't fun. It was worth maybe £50k. I think mostly people do what they are told, hence they weren't used to, and didn't like, me arguing. Is your builder spending your money or their own if instructed to do anything? I'd say LABC for traditional and simple house extensions, because they are cheaper. Private for anything more complex because they know more / or will discuss.

Heat in the pipes will be lost into the wall. Can you get some foam rubber or bubblepack or similar behind them?

Yes it will. but I think we know it is moving. How much though?

These are minor amendments, and may be approved without an application. If you write, summarising the changes as a matter of courtesy, then you will be covered. They will probably then ask for a formal resubmission of these details and £110 or so. At worst the existing permission still stands It is difficult to see them refusing a 200mm height increase when it is for better insulation, to current standards.

That is another positive of the heavy, solid construction. The operation of doors, especially, is very crisp because nothing is bending. With aluminium doors there ca be twisting and a less good fit. Twice the cost of a good aluminium product. A matter of taste and budget.

They are beautiful. expensive but lovely. our only downside was that they wouldn't do anything other than rectangular. People say this is not correct so perhaps it was only our local agent who didn't want to.