ETC

I think you don’t like the way the cladding interacts with the brick - and I agree. It needs rationalising. Also you’re using too many different materials-it’s becoming too fussy for want of a better word. Plus the garage looks tacked on the end-it’s needs to be more integrated into the overall design. Watch this space!

Too much brown.

And more rubbish.

Rubbish.

Rubbish.

Thanks for sharing. You learn something new every day.

Huh? Wall insulation extending above top of ceiling insulation - where does that come from?

Oops. Sounds like they weren’t thinking about the practicalities of their design - just about the look - AFCANK!

I’m not a big fan of EEWs that go to the floor at FF level - too dangerous if there are children about. However you can use restrictor stays which will allow you to use safety glass without physical guarding.

Nah!……but he will need an SE for the panel design.

How feasible is it to also do my own BR drawings? - depends how knowledgeable you are with the structure. TF, trusses not an issue. Stick build might be a problem unless you get a SE.

£5k is cheap for fees…..

What for?

Build solid blockwork from the top of the foundation to the underside of slab level and make sure you leave enough space to get your drainage out.

In which case a SAP will be needed. Something that can easily be farmed out to numerous SAP assessors. If you are happy that you can do the drawings have a go. BC will need timber frame panel drawings anyway - something the TF supplier will do for you. Timber trusses, posi-joist or cassette floors and you’re good to go. Give it ago - Be will ask for additional information if they need it. As for cost - I’d say you’re talking the sharp end of at least £5k if you’re lucky - a she’d more if you’re not.

Don’t get confused with the Building Regulations and the Guidance. If it works and flows properly there won’t be an issue. You just need to make sure that you’re not below the foundations. 850mm should be more than enough to get a 470mm diameter IC into.

I’m not sure how this will work at a door threshold….Visqueen rep will advise on everything. Give him/her a call. Oh and by the way - try and course everything - makes life easier.

Might be worth giving your local friendly Visqueen rep a call…..they’ll do a detail……mine could be a bit contrived. Continuous radon/DPM/VCL above a ground bearing slab sealed to a radon proof DPC that rises through the cavity to the top of the first block above FFL. A stepped radon proof DPC sealed above stepping down through the cavity to FGL. An additional DPC minimum 150mm (shown 225mm) above FGL.

Radon can be 225mm below FGL….

Might work……

What’s the difference between FGL and FFL? My advice would be to separate the radon barrier from the DPM and have the radon barrier below the slab - makes life easy for putting in the DPM which should go above the slab. DPC in the inner leaf at slab level. DPC in the outer leaf at 150mm above FGL.

Er…..I think the gas barrier, DPC and DPM positions are critical…..so I’m told…..