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ETC

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Everything posted by ETC

  1. The easiest thing to do is to build the walls as cavity and then build out in timber to create the look you want. Keep the window recessed.
  2. https://www.buildingcontrol-ni.com/assets/pdf/TechnicalBookletD2012.pdf
  3. Really……
  4. What about sound resistance between floors?
  5. BCNI_CONSTRUCTION_DETAILS_-_November_2023.pdf
  6. Why are the doors set that far forward?
  7. Out here in the provinces it’s not acceptable since it is too difficult to administer - but then again we are a bit behind the rest of the UK.
  8. I don’t think it’s a conditional approval - more likely a Plan Approval with a note on a drawing to say that certain information will be provided at a certain stage which puts the onus on you to provide that information before you can get a Completion Certificate. This is done quite often for elements that cannot be fully designed until a sub-contractor is appointed such as timber frame, trussed roofs and the like. In your case if an engineer designed a roof and submitted a drawing but no calculations I wouldn’t be too worried and would stamp the application approved - calculations will be filed.
  9. Nope - not acceptable. Can’t condition a plan approval.
  10. Put a service void in front of the plasterboard.
  11. Just give your local British Gypsum rep a call. He/she will be more than delighted to design and specify the wall. And yes - no foam - fire stop with an appropriate material.
  12. If it’s just rainwater from a roof gutter you don’t need a gully trap.
  13. Can you retrofit a direct air feed. Most stoves I see - especially greater than 5kW are fitted with a direct air feed.
  14. 800mm-1100mm for standard windows. Can be reduced to 600mm for roof windows. Don't forget - if you are NOT introducing a new bedroom AND you didn’t have an EEW in the bedroom before you did the work BC won’t ask for a EEW.
  15. Make it up with links but check the spacing first. Might just be 40mm/50mm from top and bottom for minimum cover.
  16. Standard two storey house fire doors not needed (except between an attached garage and dwelling). You’ll need EEWs to new created bedrooms on the first floor. No new rooms = no new EEWs.
  17. Yes. 50mm air gap is normal.
  18. Check your SAP for your floor insulation requirements. A 1200 gauge DPM is a minimum requirement. Don't forget about a VCL and perimeter insulation.
  19. That’s the stepped DPC above your window. A cavity closer will be either a rigid board like Supalux or a flexible friction fitted sleeved mineral wool closer like the one I posted earlier. I don’t see a cavity closer and the insulation is “wobbly” because it’s just set on top of the stepped DPC and fitted without any wall ties or retaining clips and that’s probably why it’s not sitting flush with the inner leaf.
  20. Yeah - replace it.
  21. First meeting with your architect: “your build will cost very very little and our fees are 10% of that” Meeting when tenders are returned: “the tenders have come in and it looks like your build is going to cost a shed load more than we anticipated - market fluctuations and all that - I’m sure you understand - and by the way our fees - well they are 10% of a shed load” rubs hands together.
  22. What I'm saying is that a fixed fee agreed at the beginning of a project is much better for you. If a fee is based on an estimated cost of the works the fees will fluctuate and will invariably end up much higher than you anticipated. Window costs = £ fees are low. Window cost = ££££ fees are high. Get me? PS fees will never go down.
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