ProDave

People often criticise ASHP's for being "noisiy" I am visiting relatives and they have a gas boiler on the landing of all places right outside our bedroom door. When that fires up in the morning it is like a jet plane on the landing getting ready for take off. How on earth do people put up with something so noisy INSIDE their house, when instead they could have something so much quieter to produce their heat, and what little noise it makes is OUTSIDE their house.

I fitted a wood burning stove in mine and burned coal overnight to keep it in. It burned almost non stop from November to February. And a couple of plug in electric heaters in the bedrooms with thermostats.

Surely if you stipulate the install should be done outside bird nesting season they can't charge that bird nesting survey?

All finished now and all housing matters concluded. It was worth it in the end even if it took longer and did not happen quite as planned. The overall result makes it all worth it. Now winding down my electrical business and retiring.

My pet thought on this subject is WHY do people pay the same for a leaky old wreck just because it looks nice? Surely it is about time the market valued houses by their true worth and old houses needing 10's of 000's of £££ spent should be worth less than nice modern efficient houses?

I am pretty sure once they know about it (which they do) the 4 year clock stops counting. You need to get away with something without the council finding out for 4 years.

What size and depth of hole? If you are not in a hurry, I would use Gyproc Pro Mix lite, jointing filler, BUT (hence not in a hurry) if anything more than a very thin skim it take ages to set. And handy if you have a tub, but mot something you are likely to go out and buy as it only comes in huge tubs. But once set it is easily sanded and painted.

I realise it is a measure of different things, but to the uneducated it sends a mixed message, your diesel is cleaner so less VED but it is too dirty to drive into a LEZ. Expecting all the general public to understand that is a bit like your kWh per hour situation.

Yes but we still have contradictory "messages" from the government. I drive a diesel car as I wanted a car capable of towing a heavy trailer. To buy a petrol one that powerful would have cost a lot in VED. So I chose a diesel one. The VED is based on Kg of CO2 per km and that is lower, a lot lower, on the diesel one so lower VED so it must be less bad for the environment. But on the other hand I am told my diesel car is way too dirty to drive into a LEZ but the previous, older, petrol one with higher CO2 per Km was okay. One can forgive the public for being cynical with such mixed messages.

Are you sure it is not the frame that is bowed?

Why did you let him do that? I am surprised building control did not pick this up?

I take the more realistic view, that for a house without mains gas available, a HP will get you down to about the same heating cost as mains gas and better than any other electric option or oil.

My only thought is if there is no wall above, and the existing supporting wall is at 1/3 span, why not install the new beam at 1/2 span, i.e. not exactly where the existing wall is. That would be better from an engineering point of view and you could install the new beam first, then take down the wall without jacking anything up. 1930's houses were not well known for having properly sized beams, one I previously owned had sagged upper floors and a brick upstairs wall not directly above the downstairs wall.

You do NOT need 3 bar for and ASHP. 3 bar may be nice for an unvented hot water tank. Upgrading pipe size will not increase static pressure, it might improve flow rates. What is the highest static pressure you get? It might be worth fitting a large accumulator that will charge up to the highest static pressure slowly then deliver a higher pressure at time of use. I am pretty sure you are not allowed to pump directly from the mains (i.e. suck water out of the mains pipe) so any pumped solution would have to be from a break tank.

I would definitely get attic trusses, so much better and not that much more expensive.

I may be wrong, but a set of stairs would have to meet building regs regards to pitch, width, etc and in particular clear headroom above the stairs and landing. That will mean you forming a permanent compliant landing "upstairs" then with a door through to the loft. I might be inclined to wait for completion, and then fit a space saving staircase and some form of easy to open loft hatch when you get to the top of the stairs.

The 3M linit is only if you are relying on the DNO's fuse as the circuit protection. Fit your own (in my case switch fuse with 80A fuse in it) and there is no such limit.

Sorry I don't recall how it was resolved. The troubleshooting download still works for me, but it does not tell you a lot apart from what the error codes mean, not what to do about it. I wish I had posted how it was resolved but I didn't and have no recollection of what was done.

And you have to guess them as they bear no relationship to their manifestos.

Most shower wastes built in like that are "top access" and they have some form of "bucket" that lifts out from the top, it is this lift out but that forms the trap and you can lift it out to clean it. If all you see looking down the rectangular hole is the pipe heading off, it might have a part missing and hence not forming a trap so the smells get in.

Almost any pump of that size will work, the Wilo are good because they are very quiet.

I thought that shock outcome HAD come true and people are now tightening their belts nervoulsy awaiting the budget to find out how much poorer they are going to be? Local house builder here has SHUT one of his sites because the houses on the first site are not selling quick enough.

Hi and welcome. you are in good company, and most of your questions will be answered by reading this blog of another member who has done what i think you are wanting to do.

That was a case of bad electrician rather than poor planning. when I was wiring new builds, I would take a walk round the shell of the building with a marker pen and discuss with the owner where they wanted sockets, switches etc and price on what they wanted, not what some random architect who was never going to live in the property had marked on the plan. Sole trader tradesmen live or die on their reputation and recommendation. If he ripped you off, don't be afraid of telling anyone that asks and don't recommend him. All my work came from recommendations.

A bit more context is needed. Why are they looking at the retaining wall? Is it failing? Are they expecting to come onto your land to repair it? Are they blaming you for it's failure?