ProDave

Can you post a much closer picture of the bottom rail of that manifold? Most manifolds have a flow meter for each loop where you can see, and adjust the flow rate for each loop. But I don't see that on your manifold. I am hoping if we see a closer picture of the bottom rail someone might recognise them and know a way to adjust flow rates.

If, like me, you are at all skeptical of the current push for "net zero" have a read if this. Try and read it without prejudice and for a moment forget all the media hype constantly fed to us about net zero. https://www.conservativewoman.co.uk/weve-got-trouble-with-wind/ It does a good job of explaining how we stand no hope of reaching net zero without a massive amount of storage for when the wind does not blow. Yet like sheep most accept this relentless drive to build more and more wind farms on the promise it will lower our energy bills.

Do you have individual metering on the ASHP if so which ctace is that on your graph. My 5kW LG therma V does indeed turn on it's circulating pump as it sees fit if the water temperature drops below 10 degrees and circulates for a few minutes. the colder it gets the longer it needs to circulate to warm the water by stealing some heat from the house. It is presumably a frost protection routine that is not mentioned anywhere in the manual, does not appear anywhere in the setup and cannot be turned off. But it is only the circulating pump in my case. However I have all use of the internal willis heater turned off. I seem to recall if you have enabled the internal heater functions, that it may turn that on as part of it's frost protection routine. It is a shame this function is not properly documented.

This is a case where I say just what will you achieve by moving the wall such a small distance? A LOT of cost and effort for a small gain. You have a blockwork wall seemingly not bothered by the tree (because the wall is on piles) and seemingly the wall is not bothering the tree. Leave them all alone. Clad the outside of the existing blockwork wall with external wall insulation and cladding to upgrade it, and keep the rest of it as your structure. A full plan drawing of what you are trying to achieve might make more sense of why you seemingly want to demolish a wall and rebuild such a short distance away.

The top hinge is worn out. There is play in the various joints so it has all gone sloppy. change both the hinges, or get a window fitter to change them. As it may not be possible to get an exact replica, change top and bottom.

So is this the neighbour building the extension, not you? Put the responsibility of protecting your wall on them?

Well done @nod You have shown if you are dilligent and do a lot yourself you can still self build for under £1000 per square metre.

As above once the supply is installed into your kiosk there is no need to move it, the supply and meter will stay there and you lay a big armoured cable from there to feed the house.

Plumbing was simple. The tank came with a basic filter bowl and isolating tap and it was just a 10mm plastic coated copper pipe to the tiger loop by the house. Pumping oil out of the old tank somewhere else will be expensive, can you not wait and run the old tank almost dry then what's left you could transfer yourself to small suitable containers? I imagine disposing of the old tank won't be cheap.

Just like we did not decrease our voltage, I bet they did not increase theirs either. A paperwork exercise. All it may have achieved is manufacturers design stuff to work over a wider range of voltages, which with most things using switching power supplies happened anyway.

I had no problem just installing mine myself on the previous house, onto a concrete base. BC even allowed us to put the tank right next to the house, not a distance away, as the wall it was adjacent to had an outer skin of rendered blockwork and no windows so was deemed to be "fireproof"

Our previous house was required to have a tank with internal bund because it was close to a watercourse. you are supposed to have a bund alarm that detects fluid in the bund meaning the tank has failed. But agreed is is much more likely the outer bund will have failed due to damage or UV degredation long before the inner skin fails and then leaks into the now ineffective bund.

Almost all houses I have ever worked on have been over 240V We "changed" to 230V some time ago but all that did was change the target with then a lop sided minimum and maximum tolerance meaning the typical 240V that almost every house receives is well within tolerance, If you want to rule out voltage rise due to local PV generation, measure it at night when it is dark.

Re the bins. There are thousands of remote houses here with long driveways and the owners just wheel the bin down and leave it at the street on bin day then wheel it back. Don't tell me that common sense solution is no longer accepted? The other issue is do you have a legal right to pass and re pass on foot and in vehicles to the potential plot?

As a non professional (at least not a structural professional) I have seen this sort of thing a lot. The left hand side of the arch has to support a lot of weight in a small space, so my take is the mass on that left had footing is more Kg per square metre than the rest of the foundations and that left hand foundation has settled more. Given the age of the house I bet the foundations are not particularly deep. The crack is not going to go away. IF you buy it now like that, it might just stay the same, it might get worse but one thing is sure if you ever decide to sell the buyer will be asking the same questions. The only safe way is to get a structural survey and then negotiate the price down for the repairs needed. Or walk away and find a different property. It all depends how much you want it.

I was about to say that. Cheap, they seem to work, and the pointed arrow head bit does not skate around. Usually sold as a set of 3, 4mm, 6mm and 8mm No coolant needed.

AND check both diagonals of the door FRAME as well.

When you find out how to accurately predict rain, wind speed and direction, please let me know (speaking with my boating hat on)

Here is a link to the heat loss spreadsheet

If you have been offered them free, then I would go for it for just the transport costs. Most take the simpler route of a static caravan or large touring caravan, easier to transport and easier to sell at the end. But think ahead. Would one or both be useful to keep after the build, spruce them up a bit and you have a large shed / workshop. If that is likely and you have the room then build into your plans the option to keep one or both of them on site permanently.

You are clearly building a well insulated house. Have you tried using Jeremy's heat loss spreadsheet to work out your heating demand? Many of us have found it clearer and more accurate than SAP calculations. Regarding no heating upstairs, I am one of several here that took that bold leap and am happy with the result. Heat transfer throughout the house is not really via the mvhr but more just convection through the house etc. It works for us and many others provided you are happy with a bedroom temperature a little lower than downstairs in winter.

When I had a pebbledashed and painted house, before re painting, I just pressure washed the whole house and let it dry before re painting. That removed all algae and any loose paint.

Have you bought the lights? Some types will fit in the depth of a sheet of plasterboard and so need zero space. Or counter batten and lower the ceiling by 25mm.

How about praise for the massive reductions in CO2 we have already made? We are still treated like naughty school children misbehaving. How about stating we should move to greener fuels for our cars and home as soon as practical, stop pushing the idea that if you don't buy an EV then you are an evil monster who does not care. How about sort out the MCS and grant mess so that if the government gives a grant, it is truly that sum repaid from an already sensible install price. Pay the grant to the home owner not th installer on receipt of the paperwork saying it has been installed. People would be more likely not to feel cheated. How about in the mean time we still NEED gas and oil, so it might as well be our own recovered to known good standards rather than import it from god knows where with all the transport pollution to go with it. Stop destroying our heavy industry and closing everything because it is too polluting. All that does is kill jobs and the economy and MOVES the pollution to some other country that will fill the gap in the market and make it instead probably to poorer environmental standards, and with the added transport pollution to move it. Stop pretending that cutting down forrests and shipping them round the world to burn in DRAX is good for the environment.

Yes, but for so long now the electorate have been let down by broken promises. Labour are in now only because people lost faith waiting for the consravative promises. Labour seem set to break their promises. If they have not made good by the next election you may well get Reform, as the electorate will have become fed up with the hollow promises from the established parties. I don't see why the main parties don't see this and start being honest with the electorate. There is no point saying you will do something then not doing it.