ProDave

That ship has sailed for me.

But the old light MUST have had neutral to it, so I still don't see why you cannot connect the same L, N, E that previously went to the old light, to this new one. As already mentioned you will have to leave the switch in the house turned on all the time for it to operate automatically at night. Post pictures of the actual cable you have coming from the house and how you have actually connected it to the light.

So it is a simple L,N,E connection no need for any switched L. So it should just connect in place of the old lamp.

Post a picture of your connections at the light fitting, that should clear this up.

30 years ago on a camping trip the camp site facilities were in a VERY old static caravan that was on the verge of collapse. The floor sloped a great deal so the shower tray was up on bricks at one end to keep it something close to level. This one would have been luxury by comparison.

He probably fitted his own JB's as some of the junction boxes built into light fittings are dire and impossible to connect 2 cables to (loop in and out to next fitting)

Yes picture may help. NEVER fit downlighters where you cannot change the lamp, and stick with 240V lamps e.g. GU10. If you ignore that advice and fit downlighters with a fixed lamp, buy PLENTY of spares, so when they go wrong in 5 years time and they are no longer available, you at least have some spares to keep you going.

This looks like your fill loop. If that is a pressure gauge there, open the two black valves at the end of the silver hose looking thing until the gauge reads about 1.5 bar then close them. Then try resetting the fault on the HP control panel

Your system has lost it's water pressure. One of the plumbers will be along to tell you how to top it up. In the mean time post as much as you can of the plumbing around the system particularly anything with something resembling a valve etc.

Don't do that. Post a picture of the insides of your fan and I am 99.9% certain you can just remove the timer module and your fan will work as a normal fan.

Those joists are not very big and quite possibly full of woodworm. My BIL lives in a 300 year old Welsh farmhouse like that. All the rooms have a permanent dip towards the centre of the room and they all move as you walk on them. But the surveyor summed it up verbally to my BIL (not what he put in writing) It was built 300 years ago out of rocks and s**t, it hasn't fallen down yet and unlikely to fall down any time soon. Another friend who had such a house lived the first 5 years with an Acro prop in the middle of the living room because he did not believe the floor above would take the weight of a double bed. It did not collapse when he eventually removed it.

Pictures? Are you concerned with "flex" as in the floors have sagged over time? OR "flex" as in you can see them bend and flex as someone walks on them?

Funny you should mention it but work on my long awaited car port ground to a halt when the snow came with the new year.

And then within a few hours of you getting it home and into your house, it becomes the shape of a banana.

Interesting. I like the idea as it reduces power it also reduces flow rate. My LG is set on needing 15L/min otherwise it shuts down with a low flow error. This variable flow seems so much more sensible. I have no plans to change at the moment, but if my present HP fails, this is the sort of thing I will be looking at when choosing a replacement.

First check the header tank is not dry.

And instead of being up front and saying that, we are going down the renewables route only under the guise of "net zero" We have been sleepwalking into this situation without a plan for what to do when our own oil and gas runs out and no preparation for that event.

Definitely. You want the mixer somewhere you can reach in and turn it on without getting your arm wet when you do so, so you avoid the inevitable cold water deluge before the hot water arrives. Of course it also needs to be accessible when you are in the shower.

It's funny how the cost of new energy infrastructure is added to energy bills like that. I don't recall in days gone by paying a levy to pay for all the coal fired power stations?

In fact, there are subsidies paid to the "community". It turns out our local community council receives payments from at least one of the nearby wind farms. I don't know of the history if how or why these are paid. The money is supposed to be used for the community good. One of the things they spend it on is a modest annual payment to each household to help with energy bills, with a higher amount paid if you are over state pension age.

Yes, that is the issue. the South want the power, and while the good people of Scotland have been having all these wind farms and pylons built (in spite of objections) the good people in the Cotswolds can have their green power without having to see it. THAT HAS TO CHANGE.

AND a failure of planning. WHY so many approved in Scotland, where there is no more capacity and they are the ones paid not to generate, while at the same time there is still I believe a blanket planning ban on onshore wind farms in England where there is the capacity and nearer to where most of the power is needed.

Crimp or solder and then heat shrink insulation.

Which is why I thing they would get the public on side more if it was presented an an energy security issue due to our dwindling oil and gas reserves, and without the silly completely stop oil use targets.

Yes it is happening. BUT if not actually man made we will get to net zero eventually at great cost, and find it makes no difference. So it DOES matter how it is caused.