ProDave

So you don't want to listen to an argument why net zero is not going to work so instead launch into a shoot the messenger rant. Some people are just not open to reasonable debate.

But even then, the single property exemption would cover that. Like you I think this is a very unusual muddled up situation.

Especially the prospect of doing that, KNOWING there is loose insulation above.

Before you keep banging the net zero drum, watch both of these with an open mind. I am not anti green energy, but I am against the current Net Zero at all cost policy we seem to be pursuing. We need a balanced approach along the lines of lets build renewable energy as quick as we reasonably can to power things that lend themselves to that power source, but keep some fossil fuel usage in particular using our own resources to their maximum extent for the sake of energy security and to avoid just "exporting the polution" pretending it is okay to do that.

I would definitely have loft hatch. Exposed blown celulose is surely no worse than lofts of old filled with loose lay vermiculite? Span over the loose lay stuff with some boards for access and storage, if necessary up on loft legs. I hate not having access to a hidden void. In our last house I had a hatch in the floor to access the under floor void. I avoided that in this house for the sake of air tightness, but still sometimes think it would be nice to see what is going on under there, even though there are deliberately no services there. Of course if you think about it from the start at design stage, then a warm roof design with the insulation and air tightness following the roof line is best. Your loft space is then warm and dry and no issues with needing a sealed loft hatch or any downlights etc that might penetrate an air tight layer.

If so it's 400V. That is still well under 20KV so exempt from this legislation. I am utterly confused why they think Section 37 applies to this, what are they not telling?

The exemption refers to VOLTAGE under 20KV 20 Killovolts. Your line is 240V so covered by the exemption. Yours is also a line to feed a single consumer, so again exempt I really don't see why they just can't do it, why they need permission from some minister. This is not a major high voltage pylon marching across a national park. I would be asking your DNO to explain in plain language exactly what they need to do to supply your house, preferably with a plan showing what cables will go where, and asking them WHY they think it is subject so section 37.

Can someone explain what this Section 37 is? I can't see why the DNO won't just upgrade their network and quote for the work needed. It almost sounds to me like there is a party being uncooperative and not allowing them access to something and they are having to force it through some legal process?

That definitely won't just paint over. As above the ceiling board in the alcove has sagged and all the joints are shot. A lot more work than a bit of filler and paint.

Not seeing picture

So most likely the neutral fault occurred and rather than any proper testing it was assumed it was the light fitting so you tried a new one?

If what you think is N, lights up a neon screwdriver, then it is most certainly NOT connected to neutral. So you have a wiring fault somewhere. Did the old light work before you removed it? Not sure we have had a straight answer to that one. Tread carefully, a floating neutral can be a dangerous fault to find and dangerous because unexpected things can become live.

That ship has sailed for me.

But the old light MUST have had neutral to it, so I still don't see why you cannot connect the same L, N, E that previously went to the old light, to this new one. As already mentioned you will have to leave the switch in the house turned on all the time for it to operate automatically at night. Post pictures of the actual cable you have coming from the house and how you have actually connected it to the light.

So it is a simple L,N,E connection no need for any switched L. So it should just connect in place of the old lamp.

Post a picture of your connections at the light fitting, that should clear this up.

30 years ago on a camping trip the camp site facilities were in a VERY old static caravan that was on the verge of collapse. The floor sloped a great deal so the shower tray was up on bricks at one end to keep it something close to level. This one would have been luxury by comparison.

He probably fitted his own JB's as some of the junction boxes built into light fittings are dire and impossible to connect 2 cables to (loop in and out to next fitting)

Yes picture may help. NEVER fit downlighters where you cannot change the lamp, and stick with 240V lamps e.g. GU10. If you ignore that advice and fit downlighters with a fixed lamp, buy PLENTY of spares, so when they go wrong in 5 years time and they are no longer available, you at least have some spares to keep you going.

This looks like your fill loop. If that is a pressure gauge there, open the two black valves at the end of the silver hose looking thing until the gauge reads about 1.5 bar then close them. Then try resetting the fault on the HP control panel

Your system has lost it's water pressure. One of the plumbers will be along to tell you how to top it up. In the mean time post as much as you can of the plumbing around the system particularly anything with something resembling a valve etc.

Don't do that. Post a picture of the insides of your fan and I am 99.9% certain you can just remove the timer module and your fan will work as a normal fan.

Those joists are not very big and quite possibly full of woodworm. My BIL lives in a 300 year old Welsh farmhouse like that. All the rooms have a permanent dip towards the centre of the room and they all move as you walk on them. But the surveyor summed it up verbally to my BIL (not what he put in writing) It was built 300 years ago out of rocks and s**t, it hasn't fallen down yet and unlikely to fall down any time soon. Another friend who had such a house lived the first 5 years with an Acro prop in the middle of the living room because he did not believe the floor above would take the weight of a double bed. It did not collapse when he eventually removed it.

Pictures? Are you concerned with "flex" as in the floors have sagged over time? OR "flex" as in you can see them bend and flex as someone walks on them?

Funny you should mention it but work on my long awaited car port ground to a halt when the snow came with the new year.