MrSniff

May be obvious, and apologies if so, but good quality roller sleeves and brushes, and definitely a good solid adjustable pole - a lot easier to roller larger areas using two hands on the pole than one hand on the roller handle. I found a 14” roller a good compromise size wise.

Thanks for the reply, very helpful. The zones equate to different rooms on the same floor / manifold. We are on a district heating system, so no bypass or buffer, just a progressive valve allowing flow from the district heater through the heat exchanger to manage "secondary" water temp to the manifolds based on outside temp.

Hi, struggling to balance our UFH system (three floors each with a manifold, some with more than one zone; no mixing at the manifold as water temperature set at heat exchanger based on outside temperature). So, stupid question which I should know but can’t seem to get my head around: for zones I want to transfer less heat into the floor, do I reduce the flow rate or increase it? I also wonder whether it is more efficient to keep the system consistent 24 hours, or use a set-back overnight? Many thanks for any help!

Living in Luxembourg (working on Luxembourg citizenship), and struggling with the local way (principally German) way of doing things - does that count?

Conduit is used as a matter of course here (Luxembourg) in newish builds, usually flexible ridged plastic. Theoretically this means bends are swept, but the ridges make pulling cables more difficult than you would think - as evidenced by a less than enjoyable and somewhat blue air day removing a coax cable and pulling through new double barrel cable across two floors…

+1 for Unifi access points wired back to a POE switch. This is what we have in a three story concrete built house. I believe mesh uses WiFi bandwidth to communicate between nodes, typically not a big problem, but they do need to be in range of each other.

Shouldn’t be a problem. The new switch should receive data only, with power supplied to the POE ports by the new switch’s power supply (unless I’ve misunderstood the setup!)

We had a similar issue. The socket for each pin has two connectors, and in our case one got bent out of alignment so only one was in contact with the plug pin, so only half the contact and twice the resistance. A replacement socket solved to problem.

Always surprised me to find switches and sockets right next to a bathroom basin in Europe. But here it’s a 16A radial protected by an RCBO so presumably safer than a 30A ring final protected by RCD?

We have the Sonos Beam and two Sonos One's set up as rear speakers. All works surprisingly well, even in an awkwardly shaped room - and still confuses me sometimes to hear sounds from behind me when watching TV. And no extra cabling...

Unifi is their WiFi range: https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless Also available from a well known large on-line book store… We use an AP Lite on each floor of a concrete built house to allow WiFi continuity throughout.

We have one on the landing. No noise and useful extra natural light: glad we put it in.

I’ve got a few Eufy camera scattered around, including the doorbell, reasonably priced. Mostly mains powered, but some battery (and solar panel available). Happy with them so far, local storage (MicroSD cards, so if the camera is nicked so is your evidence), but sends notifications and images to a smart phone with no subscription fees. Happy with them so far… Available from Amazon.

Thanks both. Seems to be a conventional thread. I will give Wunda a call and see what they say. Thanks!

Thanks for the response. Sadly it appears not - no hex or flats: it seem to be part of the casting.