Tom

Would you put primer down on the compound or just leave it do you think? Coir mat going over the top anyway.

Bosh! Took eleven bags in the end. I had ten, 45 minute round trip to Screwfix for the eleventh, naturally

Thanks all, really helpful. For now I guess I'll just get a cabinet so the sparks has somewhere to take the cables to. Here's a picture where it'll go, the cables and power can come down from the trunking above, marked in green. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for wall mounted cabinets?

Thanks everyone, so I need a patch panel, patch leads, switch, data cabinet - would I ideally have power going to the data cabinet? I'll have a look at Ubiquiti... Our 4G is great, we stream everything through it - faster than fibre at our previous address!

Evening all, so I spec'd network cable all over the place but haven't really thought through what needs to go at the end of it. I really have no idea re networks - what do I need? Our internet connection is going to come via 4G if that makes any difference. Do I need a router or a switch?

Mostly for dropping keys and money through I reckon

Believe me we went through every way of doing this! Spending a week in January with a Hilti floor chaser, then last weekend with my SDS drill, has worked out OK in the end.

Yep, the coir stuff. I'll probably lay it in 2m wide strips width-ways, bits near the door will wear down quicker and need replacing sooner anyway.

This stuff do? What's the advantage of a two part? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Level-Self-Levelling-Compound/dp/B01MSZ2NA9?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A270JM2WSBBETT

Hi all, I've finally managed to chisel out the mat well we have between our front doors (9m x 1.2m) and now plan to edge it with right-angled steel and cover the rough concrete with a self levelling compound. I've never used this before - I guess I need to prime/seal the raw concrete? Any recommendations for this and the compound? Depth will be 5-8mm approx. Thanks all

I have a large Roof Maker non-opener with electric blackout blind - seems like a very well-built unit and the blind works well. Looks much better than the standard Velux from outside and was simple to fit - though caused lots of scratching of heads as it wasn't a Velux. I fitted it myself in the end and couldn't have been easier. I have two windows that are collecting dust that I couldn't use as I had measured wrong if you want them (not a million miles from Exmouth) - though they don't have blinds.

Thanks @JohnMo, seems like I've been oversold a load of thermostats and actuators by Wunda...! I certainly prefer the idea of keeping it all simpler as you suggest. I have a floor probe in the concrete of the large zone, so that could be retained - though as you indicate above, perhaps I don't even need that if the ASHP would modulate itself down to zero. Would the bedrooms be a bit too warm though, if I rely on a "one flow-temp fits all" approach? I could just suck it and see, can always add back in thermostats and actuators as we learn to live with it.

Hi All - our UFH is set up at the moment such that we have one very large zone (abouth 1km of pipe), and then lots of smaller zones (80-90m of pipe)- bedrooms, en suite etc. I want to run the ASHP at it's most efficient so I'm concerned that these small zones, if allowed free reign, would result in short cycling. Would it be possible/feasible to set up the ASHP controller (Mitsubishi) so that a small-zone thermostat can only successfully call for heat IF the large zone is also calling for heat? The small zone can then switch off when needed, or continue to call for heat even if the large zone has subsequently stopped. I've asked the ASHP installer but have yet to receive a reply, would be great to see if any one here thinks this worthwhile or a waste of time or just not possible. Thanks all

Aaahh, gotcha @Dillsue. Checked our tarrif and we get about 12p/kWh generated and 5p/kWh for the 50% we are deemed to export. Will do the sums re deemed/metered but with 13kW on the roof I'm thinking metered would be better, and at only 5p/kWh for what we do export any that I can divert would be a bonus

Thanks @Jinglish, I don't have a smart meter at the moment, so no export meter, only a generator meter. I think it's assumed I use 50% of my generated power - is that right? It's unclear how that changes when I get my smart meter (and therefore export meter) next week.

Really? Presumably it should be upstream of the import meter so it can tell when the power being generated is in surplus and is going back to the grid. I don't think I have an export meter, I've got a generation meter

The PV generation has already gone through the generating meter, so I will be paid for it AND by diverting it I get to use it as well - isn't that how it works? Question though: what are the implications of the new smart meter doing net metering? Am I right in thinking any export to the grid essentially spins the meter backwards, so why divert any to an immersion, just use imported power to run the ASHP?

Thanks Joth, I'm just thinking in winter when generation will be minimal I still want to capture as much as I can

correct

Hi All - I'm going a bit cross-eyed trying to work out how best to do this and would really appreciate some advice. I've tried searching but can't find anything that fits. So, the situation is this: - we have approx 13kW of solar PV on the roof now and due to be connected up next week - we are on a good (old) feed in tariff - we have 3 phase going in to the property, next week Octopus will be coming to fit a new 3 phase smart meter - the same day another electrician is coming to hook up the PV to the consumer unit - we have an ASHP with 300L cylinder - I have already bought an Eddi diverter, hoping to send excess generation to the immersion I asked the ASHP installer the question and was told: "It depends on whether your energy supplier uses Net Metering for your 3-phase supply. To make use of excess across all 3-phases you need to install an Harvi plus 3x CT clamps, set it to 3-phase mode and then set Net Metering on. Then your Eddi will calculate the total export for all 3-phases and operate even though there may be no excess on the phase to which it is connected, so it will virtually but not actually consume excess on the other phases. Go into advanced setting, supply, then check for net metering" Am I right in thinking the Harvi will monitor all 3 phases, if any one or more of them are exporting it will trigger the Eddi to divert the same amount of power (from whichever phase it is hard-wired to) to the immersion? I guess that only works with net metering though? Does anyone know if Octopus do net metering - and if not is there any way to divert all three phases? Thanks all

You can buy foam fillers with a notch cut out of each "hump" - or just cut a similar notch in the ones you already have. You can also buy ones with wire mesh in them.

Don't be put off by the woodburning stove naysayers, if you want a stove, go for it. Just get one with a ducted air supply, or forget the MVHR. All new installs by law must have a CO alarm anyway.

This pretty much makes the MVHR pointless. Can you not just get a different stove which can take a ducted air supply?

What does she say about your hammer function?

I DO have a pair, I believe my wife keeps them in a drawer 😔