willbish

Window meets the size/area requirement...

Its a fixed window. House is all but finished. Not interested in finger pointing, just hoping for a solution that doesn't involve major works.

Im having some push back from BCO regarding my lack of emergency escape windows on the ground floor. The family room and the study are the issue. BCO happy to turn a blind eye to the study, because its "only a small room" as long as I remove the door. However removing the door for the family room is not a solution, apparently. The way I see it, there are 2 means of escape from the kitchen (front door through porch & back door) Using the BCO's metric shouldn't every ground floor room require an escape window. What can I use to gently persuade and leave him thinking he's still the boss?!

Great, will take a look

Is this a thing? From my limited wanderings in Config Ive only seen 3C. Can already think of a couple of uses for 4C in my set up

Looking for any advice on challenging the Valuation Office for Council Tax banding. I had a call back from the valuer who dealt with my property this morning, I asked a lot of questions... Was told to just submit an appeal, no evidence needed as it is a recent valuation and so it would get looked at again. In more depth. Was told EPC's are not an accurate way of determining size of property and so are not used Google maps are not used to determine size of dwelling or scope of alterations No site visits are made Despite each tax band having a very specific property value, eg Band F £120k - £180k . No figure is reached when determining the value of the property. So not possible to know if you are just inside the band, or comfortably in the middle. From what I could find out, only 2 forms of information are used: - plans from the planning portal, in my case hand drawn and although beautiful the accuracy cant be anywhere near as good as CAD. - sold prices No consideration is given to adjoining property, in my case semi detached neighbour is Band B, Ive just been given F Unfortunately the gentleman I was speaking to made his excuses to end the call, with many questions unanswered Is the curtilage of a property considered? eg Small house, large curtilage with outbuildings etc could that have a similar value to a large house on a tight plot. When looking at local houses to demonstrate Im in the wrong band, is it a waste of time looking at houses that haven't been valued recently and have had lots of extensions? Should I just be looking at new builds and newly valued? I read on the forum previously that highly insulated properties with thick walls, mine nearly 500mm, was a good point to raise as floor area is reduced compared to older style build methods, is this still true?

I have similar but larger Solis inverter, religiously followed the strict instructions initially. But after a few grid power cuts, the inverter seems quite content to power down and reboot in any AC/DC order. Maybe I've affected the longevity of the machine but I doubt it.

As an update to this, the manual makes no mention of PV diverted power, the second wiring option is for a 24hr timer function only. On/Off and not for granular 'excess' power Thankfully Sunamp have been very helpful. They acknowledged that i should have had a model that accepts PV through a diverter and have sent me a new controller. The Sunamp now charges top to bottom instead of bottom to top, as such the in and out pipe work has had to be reversed. Working well now though. @ToughButterCup I'd check your installation is ok with Sunamp, they were adamant an eHW should not be connected to a diverter and said it would effect longevity and capacity. Must be the eHW +iPV.

Another vote for FuseBox. They do a frame which allows the CU to be recessed. Looks 👌 https://www.gil-lec.co.uk/fusebox-afmf18

Nice touch. The Touch Pure have the little LED downlights that are good for a little illumination in the middle of the night. Unfortunately I don't have any switches on the landing/hall. Would be really nice to hack the Loxone presence detectors for this but my software skills are lacking!

Hi @joth when you say low level markers at night do you mean using the LED's inside the presence detectors for illumination? During commissioning, I noticed the Loxone ones have a few different LEDs inside to indicate status. Would be really neat to use these as lighting at night but am guessing it would involve hacking them.

Why do you need an expensive Ubiquity switch? I would've thought a cheaper unmanaged alternative would suffice and then add the Ubiquity WAP's

I have similar requirements to @Adsibob and will likely follow @JonJump advice and fit an unmanaged switch in front of my router with 2 decent ceiling mounted wireless access points. Currently looking at switch options and it seems that most 19" rack mounted POE options are all managed. Is that the case? I'm looking for 24 port total but only really need a handful POE. Currently have all 16x cat6 terminated and patched ready for the next step..

No, hasn't been used with any type of diverter yet

Thanks Russ. I feared that might be case. Another mark against the eejit that spec'd the thing. I wonder if there's an option to upgrade the controller 😕

Not much Sunamp chatter for a while... Does anyone know if my UniQ eHW 12 will accept little bits of power from a PV diverter? I have looked at the current range and read the manual for the +iPV model. It talks of using a 4 core cable and permanent live from the PV diverter. Starting to wonder if Ive bought the wrong box of gloop for my needs as no mention of controlled input power in my manual

Finally making a start on fitting the internal doors. First one swung beautifully... then... a problem. The door latch wont recess when the door is pushed closed. A video below shows the issue. Initially I assume I haven't installed it correctly, perhaps the face plate is impeding. But no, all looks good Quick call to the company and someone from Sales reckons as these are 'heavy duty' latches the door will only close when the handle is pressed or knob turned. That cant be right surely! I can think of some seriously heavy mortise locks and latches on many different doors that will close when pushed and no need to operate the handle. Have been told I am 'welcome' to escalate further to customer services but tbh I'm not sure if this is a fault with the latch or if it has genuinely been designed to like this. Any ideas? VID_20220430_081500.mp4

Thanks @Radian There may even be an option to get a cable to the other end of the profile direct from the transformer, via the ceiling void, if the COB doesn't perform as I had hoped. Hadn't considered running cable in the profile, pretty sure that would work too. Nice to have a few back up options 👍🏼 Will likely press ahead with the LEDYI quote. Just a shame their products doesn't have a UK stockist

Perhaps for the areas where a longer run is required I should look beyond COB? They will be behind diffusers after all. One area in particular has the 12v transformer already wired in the ceiling, which will be accessible when I eventually cut a hole for a ceiling speaker, but has 2x lengths at 4.6m. Im not after any RGB just 3000K

Luckily this isn't one that ive bought a transformer for yet so will switch to 24v

Ive bought a few 12v transformers already but still have a couple to buy. Haven't seen any 24v that has 25mm cutting intervals all seem to be 50mm which puts me off Would 24v 15W/m really be brighter than 12v 15W/m? Longest length I have is 5 metres

Looking for any recommendations for LED strip suppliers, preferably UK Specifically after 12v Chip on Board COB Ive seen some 12v versions can be cut at 25mm intervals which would be a lot better for reducing any dull spots at the ends of the profiles I have plastered in. The LEDYI range is excellent but purchasing direct from China land is adding $$ in shipping

I've had exactly the same issue with Protek and my flat roof, albeit with Bauder as the materials manufacturer. Bauder only supply a 'company backed insurance supported' guarantee which didn't meet Proteks (changing) requirements. Also after nearly a year of back and forth, I have had this signed off. In the end the installer agreed to cover the materials alongside their workmanship guarantee. They were reluctant to do so and needed approval from their insurance backer. They only did this because I argued they had breached contract by not supplying me with a roof that has an insurance backed guarantee for materials and workmanship and that they would be liable if I chose to rip the roof off and get another firm in to deliver. I felt a bit for the roofing contractor as they did a good job and didn't deserve to get roped into Protek's unwillingness to warranty.

Closed cell is the premium upgrade. Icyene basic offering is open cell

Widespread use of hydrogen for heating looks very unlikely