Thedreamer

Good idea using the drone to show the setting out.

My plan is to use acoustic isolating strips, acoustic insulation slabs, a good underlay and a carpet for the kids rooms. My five year old boy can be quite noisy. What are the options for insulating a stud wall. We have an open plan partly vaulted ceiling with the kids rooms on either side?

Borrowing half from my wife's uncle and the other half we are borrowing from our joiners. Should result in scaffolding cost coming at around £300-£400. It seems to be a cost that can spiral.

For a while, it felt like we would never build as we were saving for years, but we decided to put in the access, water and electricity a few years before we actually started. Although this pretty much depleted our funds it enabled us to have services ready and dig foundations on day one. If for some reason we didn't proceed the money invested would have just have added value to the site. We were in the fortunate position of not having to pay for the land as it was previously used for agricultural purposes. So kinda viewed this as being our 'plot costs''

As @ProDave mentions offcuts of work and adjustable base jacks, use a spirit level to check.

Thanks Chaps. I think I might go down this route. https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=http://www.kytun.com/p/retro-fit-slate-dry-verge-aluminium-pack-of-4/p-c03&source=gmail&ust=1534434436095000&usg=AFQjCNHgOdaq_41SMhcW_UkcbUhRrz6zuQ With the verge attached to the bargeboard.

Seem to be going round in circles here. Spoke to Building Merchant and roofer earlier and they suggest the Klober dry verge uni line S strip, but this seems to be more based for battens rather than in Scotland where slates are nailed directly onto the sarking boards, so I was thinking that there 'Scot strip' would be the better option. http://klober.co.uk/shop/product/uni-line-continuous-dry-verge This is what the end gable currently looks like. Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, our supplier couldn't promise the longer lengths required for the gable end which will be partly clad and because I didn't want a joint in wood, decided to go horizontal instead.

Not the best photo, but ours is a couple of fence stobs and a make shift box covered in a scrap bit of membrane and shed felt. It's been there since 2015, last summer I opened it up and it had a wasp nest in it. Got a fright closed the doors and jumped, carefully opened the door and noticed they were all dead or dying.

Skye is probably not the best example, property and land are increasing very quickly here. I think that formula works if you are Pro builder with a view to a profit, but probably a proportion of self-builders aren't too bothered if the value is less than expected at the end. Obviously, if a property is valued higher you might benefit from a lower interest rate for borrowings, but for me, I can't ever see us moving so the final market value is not really relevant.

Thank you for the comments. A few points to consider.

Is it typical to buy the upper part of the flue, stays and cowl when your fixing your roof or do you leave the stove till later in the build? Slating will occur in a few weeks and this is the last item that I'm yet to order. Should I: Leave all together till much later in the build? Fit a flashing and leave a hole in the roof? Fit a flashing and final flue so it looks like what is shown below I really like this the charnwood country 4, has anybody purchased this one? https://www.charnwood.com/project/country-4/ It describes the flue as being a five inch flue outlet, so without sounding daft, I would need a 5 inch flashing? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, when the joiner was fixing it, I did wonder what was going to happen at the corner as the T&G was exposed, but he cut a strip from the larch and I'm really pleased with it.

Cladding now installed on the utility and porch. Unfortunately, the rest of the cladding will need to wait until the start of the block work starts in a month or so. I have also been busy nailing away and fixing what felt like a million truss clips.

When my large velux windows went in most of the time spent was in doing the adjustments on the trusses and joists. Will your joiners do this work, if it is necessary? The actual fitting of the window from opening the velux box is very quick.

It looks great. I bet the sweeping takes a while, as you're just be walking around and looking pleased with everything. ? What are you planning for gable end of the house, will this be stone as well or some form of cladding?

Thanks very much guys, much appreciated. Memories of compasses and protractors are coming back to me now. I'll check with pound coin as suggested @Ferdinand

Could anybody please help with an angle calculation? Looking at ordering a metal flashing between the main slate roof (45 degree pitch) and the lean to metal roof (15 degree pitch). What would be the method to calculate the angle where the two roof pitches meet? Hopefully, somebody can help, or I might need to dust off the old GCSE maths books! The image hasn't copied across well but this will help show what I'm trying to calculate.

Looks great. It will be exciting next week having all those different trades working.

@Redoctober The material we have around the site is called 'Rotten Rock' it breakdowns and settles to form a very compact surface. When the storage container goes off the site we will take the material around the front and bring up the level up to whatever the gap required is between the ground and DPC. Therefore keeping the ramp height to a minimum. We are going a bit against the norm here with the suspended timber floor and no underfloor heating, but I'm hoping that when insulated the floor will feel warmer than a slab with no underfloor heating and realistically this will probably be sufficient but for all of the very coldest days, which being on the west coast are pretty rare.

Thanks @Tennentslager. Better start thinking about the fridge now then. Apart from nailing a few trusses clips, I've not done much in the way of the joinery, so it's all been down to a really good bunch of guys. One of the benefits of living in a small community is that people know the standard of each other work and you generally get good communication between the different trades. I can take a satisfaction from the fact that as a 'stick build' timber frame and I've quantified and procured the materials required to put it together. I think this is the bit of the build I'll miss the most.

The windows were delivered last Friday. They arrived in three pallets, two of them were lifted off by the lorry's tail lift and a pallet truck. The larger pallet had to have the windows taken off manually. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the offloading as it was all hands on deck. I was however involved in the lifting of the windows, on average the windows were about 75kgs each, but the french doors were double at 150kgs. Here are some of the exterior. And the interior. Facias and soffits have also been fitted around the house. The next job will be fitting the Siberian larch cladding and followed by the slates next month.

Thanks guys, that very useful. Our joiners are putting small strips of timber on tomorrow/Friday so will know the exact size by the end of the week. Lead is shown on the plans as dealing with the change between the slates and the lean to roof cover, but my joiner mention some kind of flashing that deals with the gap. I'll look into the custom flashings above. Fascia and soffit were been constructed today. The shelter is pretty good at the site.

Didn't somebody posted a VAT topic with an HMRC letter recently, where the HMRC didn't repay as they proved that they living in the property?

Morning everyone, Just after a few suggestions relating to our lean to roof. We originally had Marley eternit fibre room cement sheets shown in the plan, but we would now like some form of metal roofing. Our joiners mentioned that instead of lead flashing going under the main slate roof to the lean to roof we could get some form of flashing for the metal sheeting. The roof space is about 8 meters by 2.5 meters so not a huge space but would like to put something on that pretty durable to coastal conditions. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the roof