Ronan 1

Snip of precast drawing

Rear elevation

Side elevation

I don't have any SE drawings that show anything bar steel in the roof , I can post elevations but they show even less detail about the porch. I can get one of the SE's at work to have a look at it but I want to settle my head on it first

OK Gents, I have precast slabs coming next week and have a conundrum I need help with. The attached photo it shows the rear of my house with has a covered patio which will also act as a balcony for the master bedroom. This will be achieved by using 200mm precast slabs spanning between the external leafs of the external wall and for the last 1.5 meters it will span between the lintels shown supported on the blockwork piers and the external leaf of the external wall. So to my question do I need to put a Steel between the 2 piers to stop any movement towards or away from each other OR the fact that I will pour a monolithic slab on top of them which will be 100mm wider than the slabs at the rear and parallel between the piers with will bond them and should also stop any chance of sideways movement. Apologies if this is a bit rambling and doesn't make sense but it one of those things is very clear to me but I keep ping pinging between my decision and the time is NOW.

Yeah I'm lucky we do alot of heavy civils so have Lots of large plant about even managed to get the free lend of a dump drunk and 2 drivers for fortnight but a bit like the dozer the big plant is great except when you pull up to fill the bowser with diesel ⛽ 😖 I'd hate to think of what it would have cost if I had to pay so one to do it...

Yes that's my take on it BUT I could and often am wrong. Of you find out different let me know as it will make a difference to some big purchases 8ve coming up

My understanding is no you can't BUT I'd be delighted to be wrong

I had a few window companies in the south supply and fit and none would do vat free , same actually for precast slabs and stone

I've plenty of room around the house for it and when I was digging and redistributing circa 2000m3 of muck on site anything less would have been a real pain. I've a block grab for it too so the block layers are using it so it dead handy and the fact it's free is also a nice bonus. One the slabs go on I'll probably swap it out for something smaller . Plus I know the driver and he is pretty tasty

Your going well Nod, it's flying up, I was hoping to be up to first floor level next week myself but the bloody weather here this week has put that out the window, thankfully I've been 25ton machine ive left on site to lift the steels whenever we get there

Generally priced per ton for cut and bent and per m2 for mesh. Location and m2 area and overall tonnage will make a big difference to price also

Hi if you need to underpin by only a few hundred mm I'd ditch the trench prop, there is really no need at all. Just make sure you dig them in a hit and miss sequence. I personally do not like a top fill pin and much prefer to dry pack my pins but to be honest they are that shallow it won't really make much difference.

What horse shit.... I designed something no architect was able to give me which is what I want and a way I want to build it. I brought it to an architect( award winning) who is a relative of a good friend to put into planning and BC drawings and to ensure I wasn't missing anything and he reckoned he wouldn't change a thing Where most Architects fail is they are more interested in what they like and disregard their client opinions as inferior... hence alot of self builders treat them with less than the respect good ones deserve... P.s I'm a big fan of good architects and if plot was different or I wasn't in the game and had such a clear vision I would definitely have used one.

Gents I'll have doors 915mm wide (36inch) and 2147mm high (84.5 inches) in my new build what size ope should I leave in the blockwork ?? I.e should I allow and extra 50mm all round ??

Gents I'll have doors 915mm wide (36inch) and 2147mm high (84.5 inches) in my new build what size ope should I leave in the blockwork ?? I.e should I allow and extra 50mm all round ??

Interested in this thread too as I'm in the same boat except my plumber and architect reckons I don't need anything just a few towel rads in upstairs en suits and bathroom, but I just feel if I didn't put it in now and needed it later I'd regret it big time and don't think the saving will be that big and I could always leave it turned off BUT I currently flip flopping on the subject

Very hard to tell, is there any leveling to do on site, any muck away? Is the foundations deep? Depth of fill required? Is the ground good or bad? What type of treatment plant? And as discussed here a fair bit Location Location, Location makes a massive difference. P.s really nice looking house

Gutters often go on so if it rains during or shortly after plastering the water from the roof doesn't destroy the plaster running down it in lines, usually they will put a lenght of pipe up against the outlet for the down pipe to let the water captured down to the ground away from the walls

Have you a link ??

It's a bad idea, it's way to much for a wall pours in a single pour, doesn't matter how good of service you have you have a massive risk of cold jointing I wouldn't even contemplate it and I do RC frames for a living. It may be new to you but it's really a very common standard piece of work and I can't see any reason a day joint if done properly would give any problems.

Most of the top end laser levels can also be used as grade lasers for drainage or grading sloped areas such as patios or driveways. If using the cheapy ones just do an odd check every now and again as they tend to go off level after a while and not alway obvious over short distances If money is no object there is no laser level to touch a Hilti but in the region of 1200 bucks but for pouring slabs etc I won't allow anything else to be used.

Good man Nod your making great progress, my sub floor block work going in on Monday, hope to be pouring sub floor next week

C30 is between £85 and £105 up from about £65 -£70 from 6 months ago. I'm lucky I'm insulated from these hikes a bit due to my work but the above is a general off the street price

I'm paying 44p but I am getting a good discount as my company does alot of business with them. Also that's for 13.5n blocks and I'm paying 95p a block for laying them