mike2016

Great ideas - gives me ideas about how to achieve that I'm after. Thanks!

I received the tender documents from the Architect last Friday, about 4 weeks later than I'd hoped. Still it had around 12 documents and a cover letter for me to absorb and read over the weekend. They provided all the details the builders need to price the job which is a lot of detail, wall makeup, foundation and roof elements and I finally get a preview of different cross sections of the house. They provided a window and door schedule, room elevations including a design for the kitchen, utility room, under stairs storage and more. A MVHR layout and Electrical plan was also provided. I've to tweak a few things of course but so far not so bad. We had discussed my preference for a KORE passive slab and Aquapanel / K-Rend exterior back in August but they've gone for a kingspan foundation and blockwork on the outside. Also Climawool which is a bit cheaper. I've to send them feedback and see why they went this route but it was a bit suprising to say the least. Fermacell was my choice for the interior. EXTERNAL WALL BUILD UP 515MM INCLUDING PLASTER (U VALUE 0.1 W/(m2K)) 20MM EXTERNAL COLOURED RENDER FINISH 100MM BLOCKWORK EXTERNAL LEAF OR BRICK 50mm VENTILATED CAVITY. BREATHER MEMBRANE ON 10mm DIFFUSABLE RACKING BOARD 220mm TIMBER FRAME WITH 220mm CLIMAWOOL / MOY METAC INSULATION (0.032W/mK) FITTED TIGHTLY WITHIN THE TIMBER FRAME, 50mm KINGSPAN KOOLTHERM K106 (0.022W/mK) FIXED TO TIMBER FRAME. AIRTIGHT MEMBRANE (INTELLO OR EQUIVALENT APPROVED) 50mm TIMBER BATTENS TO FORM SERVICE ZONE, FILLED BETWEEN WITH CLIMAWOOL / MOY METAC INSULATION (0.032 W/(mK)) 15mm FERMACELL AND SKIM FINISH. GROUND FLOOR BUILD-UP (U VALUE 0.070 W/(m2K)) 75MM CONCRETE SCREED ON 280MM KINGSPAN KOOLTHERM INSULATION (0.020W/mK) WITH 60MM VERTICAL UPSTAND TO ALL EDGES ON RADON BARRIER ON 150MM CONCRETE SLAB ON 50MM SAND BLINDING ON MIN. 150MM COMPACTED HARDCORE Now it's a matter of working through 3 pages of notes and comments I'm sending them back and agreeing the final tender specs. They have a few builders lined up who expressed an interest and I've three of my own. Hopefully we'll get prices before Xmas and I can get cracking in January. I've to sell my own house but need some groundworks done before I put it on the market as the new house is next door and access to water/broadband etc and new car parking spaces have to be provided. Bit of a juggling match! Still not sure on a few options including the heating system, simple would be better but Irish regulations are being updated shortly and you have to tick the box or else! And someone has to sign the piece of paper too. Lots of paper signing over here! No inspections at all which is funny! So, hopefully next post will be wailing over the price of building and how many zero's it will cost me!!

Hi, I'm undecided about the stairs I want. I like the look of oak and glass but I'm not planning on anything more than a basic budget would allow. Do I ask the builder to whack up a softwood staircase himself or is metal / concrete an option? The only other characteristic I'm after is quiet, a good solid no creaking staircase is a must! Any advice appreciated!

Thanks! You're spot on.....heating has been off for over an hour and no hot spots. Must be heating pipes as you say....had me worried!

I was checking out my boiler with my FLIR and spotted the adjacent 5W LED downlight was rather warm. Then I checked the other 7 and they were too. They were turned off as it was daytime so what's generating the heat and is this normal? I changed them from halogen last year - MR16 to GU10 and they are two switched banks of 4 x 5W. Thoughts?

Some costs savings are possible with "in roof" panels for new builds to save cost of some tiles/slates You can also check out a ground mount out the back garden, cheaper to install yourself and get electrician to wire up afterwards. Keep an eye out for second hand panels and inverters also Check out batteries in 2-3 years for better prices My Plan: 2.5kW in roof panels in new build (new) 2.5kW rear garden with mix of s/w/e facing panels (second hand) Batteries later.... That's if I get the build going..!

Nope, they're UK only, just queried with them. I'm sure there are a few more insurance providers out there who do but I'll have to scour the internet for a bit! Thanks for the tip though.

Been down this road - all the Banking cost templates I found in Dublin, Ireland allowed for Timber Frame but then had an asterix - "Standard timber frame structure with traditional block exterior". I challenged each bank on this and found two who came back and said on review, yes, they would offer a self build mortgage for cement panel / render rather than masonry outer leaf. Insurance companies were also a pain - only got 1 or 2 interested and at an inflated price, claiming timber frame is more expensive to repair. Ring around and challenge them might necessary.....

MBC Project is a separate company to MBC Timberframe. Will have a look at those other two ProDave. Maybe Velfac isn't as bad as I think but I'll definately keep them in mind for my budget. Thanks all!

I'm currently awaiting the Architects tender documents for review. It's been a two month process and I've been making inquiries into specific heating, MVHR and window options. Budget as always is a worry. I've drawn up a list of timber frame companies and builders and met those on the short list face to face. The Architect will have other names to drop I'm sure but getting a feel of the building pulse and talking with the builders really helped me identify the risks as they see it. Masonry vs Cement Board was a concern, Architect said masonry is 1/2 the cost, builders has it's about the same. Shows what they know! I have a few quotes for MVHR and for all these options, getting a Passive House Certified unit was recommended. BPC are my lead choice (Ventaxia), Zendher and Paul while better are proving too expensive. Heating will most likely be ASHP for now. There's too much pushback to get a SunAmp in up front. I'll get the house built and review. Nick gave a great idea about a willis heater but the Architect is opposed. Well, we'll see what the tender responses look like and how this plays out. They tell me I can choose a cheaper ASHP later but later may be too late. Windows have been the most frustrating area. I've been speaking to over a dozen suppliers. Most don't quote the specs I'm after, don't have the glazing options I need or have never heard of the performance certificates the Architect wants. Despite quoting what I need, you usually only get a standard response. Sure, they're nearly passive you'll be fine..!! The PH database doesn't tell you which windows are available in your local area. It's been hit and miss contacting them directly. Some supply to Ireland, some don't. Previously I'd thought Rationel would be an easy win but the G values are fixed and I need higher ones for my house. I'm hoping for top hung, outward opening alu-clad. The Architect gave the following guidance for the specification they require: Glass Technical Information • Ug according to ISO EN 673 • G Value according to ISO EN 410 • Psi Glass Edge according to ISO EN 10077-2 Window Frame Technical Information • Uf according to ISO EN 10077-2 • Psi Install according to ISO EN 10211 • Widths of Frames for Top, Bottom and Sides Then this follow up: “The ideal window would be the one with a low Uf value around 0.8 w/m2k, with a low spacer thermal bridge around 0.02 to 0.03 w/mk, thin frames. The glass is also very important component and ideally the g value is as high as 65% to 67% and the Ug value as low as 0.5 w/m2k.” I'm getting good at taking a quote and pulling out the Uw and other values into a spreadsheet for analysis. Most only give the Uw however, not Uf, g, PSI glass edge etc that's needed. I've two good window quotes in but while Rationel were €14K, these two are €28K and a third €40K! I've prices @ €20K from a few but either their performance doesn't match or they can't provide sufficient information. Velfac come in at €14K but just as I was about to breathe a sigh of relief, I visited their showroom and let's just say I won't be buying if I can help it.... One piece of advice, send the spec, get the price and ALL the performance details and independent certificates to prove it and only THEN bother to visit a showroom. If you're at a tradeshow, fine, otherwise stick to email and phonecalls! Some sales people are very pushy about a face to face. I've two more windows people who are getting back to me. At least I've found windows that will do the job. I hope to list one of them in the tender. The lift and slide may end up being Internorm and so may the door so I might still mix and match but we'll see. There's more to consider of course, Guarantee, supply vs fitting and VAT, is the agent solvent etc At least the Velux windows were easy although over €1K a pop!! Hope to have prices / quotes back in November for a build in 2019. Brexit takes center stage of course. Should I delay selling or building, I'll have to wait and see. Window Model / Supplier list: Josko Prestige True Windows Nordan Ntech Prodomo Internorm MBC Optiwin Zyle Fenster Meranti Tercoco Velfac Thermax 2 Ultra Oknoplast Winergetic (PVC) Rationel Munster Joinery

Hi, I went out to a showroom to have a look at the Velfac. Have you seen an example? They didn't have a triple glazed option in store I'll be up front. When I opened the top hung model they had, the opening section is all aluminium with the glass in it, no wood. The wooden frame is the fixed part and has no outer Aluminium. It's the wierdest thing, get a look at one if you can. Maybe it wasn't the same range you are getting, I hope not!

So I think I'll go to tender as the Architect suggests with an ASHP specification and at build time look at options. I'm not sure if this is the Architects way of tying my hands or not but will see what prices come back and if any are affordable and at build time look at budget again. At least then I'll have a builder onboard and can look at options at that point. There are passive houses that don't meet Part L in ROI, you just need the PH certification and to send in a letter! Good 'ol Ireland! Thanks everyone!

The Architect has very tight reins over the BCAR/Compliance certification and no builder / tradesman I've spoken to wants to install something they've never seen before. At this end of the tender process its very hard to have that conversation even. Again, the goal is to get the house built rather than put off prospective builders with what should be simple but unorthodox requirements. Sorry to hear about AndyT, that's a shock as he was always very helpful and is one of the main reasons I'm made keen on SunAmp!

I'm caught between a rock and a hard place - Part L's DEAP vs the lack of SunAmp installers in ROI who can sign off such an install to satisfy BCAR certification of compliance which I need to get the house built. Hence willis/eltron combo which any trademan can install and certify clearing the way for SunAmp or other post build. Another solution is to put in the Ecodan ASHP CO2 high temp and replace the stainless steel cylinder with a SunAmp post build somehow. I'm going to ring around one or two energy advisors today to see what they think. I'll have 2.4 kW of PV to offset CO2 intensity but I don't know DEAP well enough to model resistive loads accurately and present it back to the Architect. Hassle I don't need! Anyway, There's an answer to all this I'm sure, I'd just like what's in the final tender to be accurate and on budget as there is enough risk next year with Brexit.... Maybe I could heat the house and hot water with candles?!

Ecodan ASHP, underfloor heating, two upstairs wet rads. I doubt I'm falling foul of Part L per se, it's the DEAP calcs where I might run into trouble. Plus if they tinker with the Deap package before the build is finished I might cross that line and fail certification! Still, for me this is the best approach - cheaper, simpler, can expand later....that's if I'm allowed. So,now I know it's possible in the UK, I'll ring a few energy advisors here in Ireland for their opinion. Cheers!

Possibly Ed, but should I build if there's a risk I could fail Part L compliance at the end? Our DEAP isn't updated in line with SAP, not sure how much they've diverged over the years. Peter - Great to hear it's POSSIBLE to build all electric which is a relief. I think I need an honest discussion with the Architect in the morning and see if this is regulations or DEAP issue - they claim I'll fail Part L which is a bit too vague when it'll cost me 10K + for the heating system they've recommended.

Hi, I'm running into trouble trying to get a Willis Heater for underfloor and a central water heater (Siebert Eltron) approved by my Architect. They claim it won't meet Part L. I'll have 8 x PV panels and it's going to be a Passive House so my question is has anyone else had difficulty passing SAP / run foul of Parl L regs going all electric? I'm holding off on an ASHP for cost reasons plus difficulty integrating a SunAmp at build time I won't go into here. I plan to add it later! Anyway, I have a preliminary DEAP xml and when I change the heating options it doedn't thrown up any errors but maybe I'm not selecting the right options. I think the Architect is being cautious so before I go back I'd like to find out if this is possible / feasible. Thanks.

Hi, I read a new article in treehugger about a test of household air quality vs kitchen exhaust in a Passive House setting. https://www.treehugger.com/kitchen-design/exhaustive-new-study-looks-kitchen-exhaust-and-household-air-quality.html The test was with Induction. Just wondering if anyone here had any thoughts? BBQ outside only? How would kitchen air spread to bedrooms - kitchens would be extracting and bedrooms would be supplying so the flow should be the other way, shouldn't it?

There must be an upper limit and where do those stresses go at that speed?! Good article here that goes into pros and cons. Maybe they've cracked it but I'd be skeptical until they publish verifiable data from a real world trial..... https://www.windpowerengineering.com/design/vertical-axis-wind-turbines/

Vertical wind turbines have historically not performed well but it hasn't stopped people from trying! Be interesting to see an installed version and the actual energy it produces, in an urban environment. There's also no way to "furl" if the wind gets too high unlike modern turbines, risking structural damage. Best of luck to them though....one free with every vacuum cleaner perhaps?!

My first was: Housebuilder's Bible 12: The UK's best-selling building guide https://www.amazon.co.uk/Housebuilders-Bible-12-best-selling-building/dp/1911346059 Gave me a good start in understanding all the aspects..... As an aside: Good Blog here: https://www.houseplanninghelp.com

Hi, I just finished a test of the heating system as the Radiators have been off all Summer. I'm trying to get to the bottom of why some downstairs rads don't heat up properly. Not a new issue but it's just niggling me currently. There are two larger rads with old TRVs and two other rads without. None of these heat too well. Upstairs is fine. I took my Flir camera out and had a look. I can see 57 degrees at the inlet of each but it doesn't appear to be heating up the rad as much as it should. The first rad pics below downstairs1 has no TRV, valve fully open, the others two downstairs2 & downstairs3 are the larger rads with TRV's. I've bled all the rads, no better. Is it sludge or something? Thanks!

Yep, plan to have one looking down from the landing onto the open plan living / kitchen area with a perch/window seat. Large Velux windows in the living/kitchen vaulted ceiling will offer a perspective outside also.

I was talking to MBC about this before and they suggested Celecta Screedboard 28 on the 1st floor. This is a click together system. Planning for that in my house. Also rockwool in between studs on inner walls and between posijoists. I'm planning on using Fermacell 12/15mm everywhere which also helps. I've seen videos of people using a resilient channel, basically a metal strip that you then connect two layers of plasterboard onto to dampen impact noises? My finished floor level upstairs will be +28mm deeper with the approach I'm taking but my stairs etc will be sized to accommodate. Hope this helps...

Welcome - hope to build in Dublin myself next year. Look forward to hearing more details on your plans. Start a blog up on this site and keep us posted! The admins can activate one for you....