mike2016

I've a new metal shed installed this week and want to look at installing some insulation. It's a lean to roof style with felt under the roof and holes at the back. The rest is sealed, I'm just waiting on windows to be fitted. I was thinking of 40-50mm rigid foam insulation on the floor and walls, OSB on top of this for the floor and osb/plywood on the walls. It's the roof I'm concerned about. Should I put in some type of vent system to ensure breath-ability to the outside? Ply on top of this to keep the weight down as I don't want it sagging might be best? I plan to fix the osb/ply to the 40mm box steel to secure it over the insulation. Also build a timber box around each window opening inside the insulation layer. I'll pre wire it for lights and sockets - is it ok to run 2.5mm wire between the insulation and the outside metal panel or should it be kept inside the thermal envelope with steel or plastic trunking? I want to store things in here year round and not worry about mould / damp etc. Any advice appreciated! Thanks.

I might try the surge protector again tomorrow and see how it behaves. Certainly gives me a perspective on how the consumer board COULD be arranged in a new build to make life easier for a small extra cost. Cheers!

I think I'll write off the extension cable so....go back to the old one! Appreciate the insight into the RCD behaviour and the swift response! Helps me stay safe! Thank you!

Two strange things happened in the last week I just want to run by people here and see if I have a real issue or not....?! I was trimming cable into one of the attic power sockets I'm running off a repurposed shower circuit. The MCB is off so the live is dead but when cutting the wire down to size (2.5mm2) I heard the fuseboard trip, it was the main house fuse that had gone. I assume this is because of a temporary short between the neutral and earth caused by my tool? Ideally I'd not connect the wire up until all the trimming is done but is there a way to safely cut wire without risking shorting wires together when you are extending an existing circuit? I was just using a sharp pliers. I assume everything worked the way it was meant to? Second issue is last night I plugged in a brand new surge protector gang block with built in usb ports. Three hours later there's a bang and the radial circuit MCB has tripped. I unplugged the new gang block and reset the MCB, all good so far. My guess is this was caused by a single USB device I had plugged into it. I've heard of problems with some USB socket makes - maybe this is similar? I was going to wait until tomorrow to try the gang block again, to see if it still works, but not use any USB ports. Anyone had similar experiences? Just trying not to burn down my house!! Thanks!

Cheers! Will have a look at getting one of those. It's too hard to run a replacement cable so will use the connector block temporarily and replace with that unit when it arrives. Much appreciated.

I'm retiring an old electric shower that was fed by a 10mm2 power cable. I'll get an Electrician to replace the 40A consumer unit fuse with a 20A one. I want to run 3 x small 13A radial circuits from it into the attic in 2.5mm2 wire. My question is how best to join these up? I've a connector block big enough for 10mm2 and I can wire in 3 x 2.5mm2 cables in the other side but is there a more appropriate / safe method or connector block I should look at using for this task? Thanks.

Oh, I like the sound of that....! The things I never knew existed until now.....!!

Thanks - not planning on running much up there, CCTV NVR, 12v DC power supply for Alarm input, Vent-Axia PIV with 300w heater, Solar PV mains detection circuit, Vent-Axia bathroom fan, that's it really.....

So maybe upgrade to 4mm square would be more appropriate?

I plan to pull out an electric shower and want to convert it's power supply to feed a couple of sockets in my attic instead. The Shower isolator is fed mostly likely with 6mm square cable. I'll get the sparks to replace the Consumer Unit fuse/RCD/RCBO with a 32amp one, assume it's much higher than that now. How do I arrange the power sockets coming off the junction where the electric shower isolator used to be to avoid any mistakes and overloading the 2.5mm square electrical cable I plan to use...? Should I run each socket back to this junction? Anything else I should consider?Thanks!

Ahaa!! that makes sense now and very obvious once you called it out!!! Thanks!!

Hi, I'm planning to replace a Bathroom fan that is tied into the light switch with a Vent Axia VASF100HTV. I want to break it away from the light switch as I use a different set of lights 99% of the time. The installation diagram shows something between the switched live and neutral. I'll get a separate pull cord and fan isolator for the project but what is the purpose of the arrowed item? Thanks!

Phew! Gave me sweats there.....I quoted imperial as I thought they were the same size!! It's all 15/22mm in my hot press though. That matches the solder fittings I've purchased so should be good to go.....

Ahaa...spotted it - that makes sense!! How troublesome are these after 20-30 years?!

Hi, Basic question but how do I safely empty a vented hot water cylinder to allow me to insert a T piece into the main 3/4" outflow pipe at the top of the cylinder? I plan to close the feed from the cold water tank and use the hot tap in the bathroom / bath tap to drain off a few litres until the pressure drops. I could drill a small hole in the part of the pipe I'm removing to check and drain off any more using an aluminium foil "gutter" into a bucket just in case. Apart from that are there any other tips anyone has to avoid me flooding the kitchen ceiling below a third time?!! Background: I'm installing a Mira Mode gravity pumped shower unit so need to tee off the 3/4" to a 1/2" for the hot feed at a 45 degree downward angle to prevent air bubbles entering the pump.

I would imagine fire regs would be ok with a fixed window in those two rooms mentioned. I find I use the windows a lot in my kitchen when cooking but I don't have MVHR to deal with excess moisture when the cooker hood fails to keep up. If the Utility room has a dryer of any kind, if you don't have an extract there, a opening window might be a good idea, otherwise you should be ok without. Big jump in price and it all adds up. The only thing about sliding doors is leaving them open invites vermin, whereas a window just invites cats....!

Just one of those hair-brained ideas I got last month. I've 23 bags of the stuff so I've the awful job of disposing of the old fibreglass! Had it nicely topped up with earthwool and now I'm taking it all up again to swap it out. I really feel like kicking myself now I even thought of it...!! Back to the drawing board so....

I'm pulling out old Fibre Glass insulation in the Attic and replacing it with Cellulose. See picture below, I plan 100mm Cellulose covered by 200mm Earthwool over it. I've a question around the top of the picture below - the dip for the soffit at the green line. I bought some Glidevale Rv655 panels which ensure a path for the vent air at the soffit to enter the attic. I also have some additional spacers in between the felt overlaps mid way up the roof (6 in total). I'd like to have a continuous cellulose insulation layer right out to the dip beyond the green line which is the soffit but it's very hard to reach and I think the cellulose might block the vent / path even with the glidevale protection - I just can't position it effectively out that far. The alternative is to buy loads more Glidevales to stop the insulation at the green line where it's possible to reach, all the way along the roof line between each rafter. I'm only concerned about blocking that soffit vent, even though cellulose can breathe will cause me problems down the road. What the best approach? I hope to do external insulation next year to meet this cellulose from below on the outside wall but am struggling a bit at this junction due to the low pitch of the roof @ 28 degrees Thanks.

I'm still considering the hot paperclip trick (needle is apparently too narrow) and watching the blood spurt everywhere!! The pressure is getting much better today and they said in the minor injuries clinic I wouldn't lose the nails. They didn't think it was needing draining though. If it continues to heal at this rate I'll hopefully not need the "pressure relief valve" / "expansion vessel" with non return valve inserted!! I went downstairs and poured very cold mains water all over both thumbs immediately after and that seems to have helped contain the bleeding. Those are some gruesome pictures!!

Thought I'd admit to getting my thumbs crushed/stuck in a telescopic ladder last night while trying to collapse it down before installing in my loft. Nothing broken but very sore and blood underneath both thumbnails. Just thought I'd ask what amazing near misses / accidents have others have had while DIY'ing here?! Can you do better?!!

Thanks Peter!

Hi, I noticed a gap under one of the radiator pipes as if something (mice?) was pushing out the plasterboard (definately shifted in last 24 hours) and I want to seal this up. The pipe probably gets to 60oC so I want to check what's the best way to seal this damage - what materials would be safe to use and not corrode the pipe and maybe push in some steel wool for good measure? Would caulking / expanding foam be appropriate? Thanks

I'm going to attend a training class and see how I get on. I can do a small section of my house at the back, a protruding kitchen extension and if that flies over the handlebars I'll go bigger. I want to attend to the windows as I go and do the house in stages before I get to the front. At least that's the plan currently! Thanks for info.

I've no cavities! Thought I had but I've solid block/brick lower front and cavity block everywhere else - you know those blocks with the two holes through the center of each side? So no cavity to pump. The only insulation is behind the dry lining internally, just some fibre glass and that's it. Thanks for the target - might be worth going for 150mm over 100mm then.....

it's diminishing returns vs diminishing light through my windows!! I'm still thinking 100mm EPS gets me the best value / return and to not make it a pain to secure things to the wall / get service panel extensions, flue extensions, move the gas pipe too much etc.