SimonD

This is the go to for plinth insulation although you can use EPS with no problem as EPS performs fine sub grade and even when it's wet. Saves a few quid on the project.

You're on the right track, but think modified lime render on the outside. Generally speaking it's mostly lime/cement with additives or the Lime Green render which is lime modified with various polymers. Your internal plaster performs this role together with providing airtightness. Driving rain in exposed areas is potentially an issue with EWI and needs to be considered carefully. If you are in an exposed location, then probably better to look at: lime render > render carrier board > battens > cavity > insulation > wall > plaster. Your render carrier boards for lime would be something like Celenit wood-wool exterior boards. In other areas, then the modified lime render - across all its coats - contains resistant agents to prevent excessive moisture ingress. Final coating can be a silicate paint, silicon paint, or a silicon/mineral finishing coat. Depends on the system in question. Not at all, you're asking all the right questions and doing your due diligence. Totally understandable IMHO. Yes, it is. Once you get into the realms of retrofit/conservation and the subject of lime, you can get caught in the shackles of lime purists as well as get loads of different opinions coming at you from all directions. In terms of EWI the most common options are EPS and Mineral Wool. Woodfibre is still fairly niche. Then there is cork. Both EPS and Mineral wool are vapour permeable so with the right system, you would still have a 'breathable' wall, so I wouldn't totally discount them yet. It all depends on your budget and goals. Worth finding some people to speak to on this as all the major companies are selling EPS and Mineral wool systems, for example Weber, K-Rend, Baumit, EWI Pro etc. If you are set on the natural insulation route, I'd suggest you speak to those who are supplying complete systems properly tested by the manufacturers first. Some options for companies to speak to are Back to Earth, Mike Wye, Lime Green (Actual Manufacturer), Ecological Building Systems (EWI Pro does have some woodfibre systems but not for solid masonry retrofit). I haven't included Ty Mawr for obvious reasons as I think their EWI system is a bit experimental, although I believe they would like to call it innovative ? I'm sure you can find others in the business but hopefully this helps you on your way.

Yes, a lot of words of caution here. The buildup you have linked to uses Secil Reabilita CAL AC as the render on Schneider woodfibre boards. However, if you look at the technical data sheet for the Reabilita, it is a finishing render for SecilTek's Cork EWI system. There is no mention of suitability for use on a woodfibre board. If you go to the Scheider woodfibre page and download their European Technical Assessment document for alternative renders on their woodfibre boards installed on masonry substrates, Reabilita CAL AC is not present. https://www.schneider-holz.com/en/service/the-plus-in-service-accessories/downloads/download/eta-15-0731-different-plaster-manufacturers-on-mineral-substrates/ Also, the Reabilita Cal RB listed in the buildup by Ty Mawr is not given to be suitable as a render basecoat on Woodfibre by SecilTek - it's for masonry substrates. My experience has been that Ty Mawr have changed the finishing render they use on this system but other than a registered LABC detail, there doesn't appear to be any technical assessment as to the suitability of the buildup. You will also find that there is scant information on the whole ewi buildup by Ty Mawr; missing are, for example, reveal details, corner beads, stop beads, mesh detailing around window and door openings etc. If you go to Schneider's website, the technical details can be found for their render system, but given that it is totally different from the one Ty Mawr are proposing, it is unlikely to be in line with Reabilita CAL AC/Cal RB. https://www.schneider-holz.com/en/service/the-plus-in-service-accessories/downloads/download/installation-guidelines-etics/ . As this is going to be a thin-coat render system, there is no way you want to be installing it without all these requisite details and reinforcements. In addition, the layers given by Ty Mawr for the Reabilita renders, take it to 15mm, which is not suitable for woodfibre, which uses lighter weight thin coater render systems at approx 8mm. The only pure lime render that I'm aware of that is technically developed specifically for woodfibre EWI is by Lime Green - https://www.lime-green.co.uk/warmshell/warmshell-exterior I could of course be wrong here and the best way to test it is by asking Ty Mawr for the technical assessment and approval for the use of Reabilita CAL AC/ Cal RB on woodfibre and for their documentation on the system buildup detailing and specific installation instructions. Also, is there any warranty with their system? What thickness ewi is your AT suggesting?

Good stuff ?

I don't think anybody knows, least of all the policy makers...my perspective is aligned with @ProDave's in that the only way to future proof yourself is to focus on reducing your energy demand mainly through a good, well insulated and airtight building fabric. Depending on where you are in the country, you might also want to look at designing the fabric of your house to keep you cool too. You could also hedge your bets by using a low temperature heating system that runs off the energy you have easy access to.

At a local scale, yet this is very different from what would be required when scaled-up to replace natural gas where, if it is to be environmentally friendly as well as economic and sustainable, much of the required technology is still at the sci-fi stage. Hence why the latest government heat in buildings strategy kicked many of the cans re alternative energy generation down the road. Blue hydrogen in particular seems like an insane idea. But of course the sci-fi notion doesn't just apply to technology, but also how we live. The fundamental issue here is that we don't have an infinite amount of energy available to us so it seems that the focus on a technological solution for energy generation misses the mark. The real question should be how we reduce our energy consumption - and that would have to lead to a fundamental reassessment of how our world works. Right now it is based on both fossil fuel energy and the continuous growth of consumption.

Depending on how to look at it, part L does thankfully contain numerous caveats to allow for flexibility here, and generally that u-value should not exceed 0.7 on improved elements. In some cases you can actually get away with more. IWI or EWI definitely best if you can do it mind you.

Gas boilers typically have a life design of about 12 years. Gas is going to be around for this long. The reality of hydrogen is still in the realms of sci-fi as are most of the large scale alternatives, even heat pumps as a direct replacement.

For the sake of narrative, I've just put in an order with Todd Doors, and also ordered at set of their door linings - laminated hardwood 28mm thick, so just want I needed. Delivery should be a week Wednesday. For reference, the lining width I first tried to order turned out to be in production...with a 5 month wait for delivery! Some things are still silly with supplies right now.

You could have a look at Seciltek ecoCork Insulating render as a potential solution. I've used the ecocork internally and will be doing a long wall with it in my current project - weird stuff to work with as it's literally like pasting cork granules to the wall. Here's a link: https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/secil-ecocork/

Love this. Spot on. Even more of a sh1t show when it was someone else who made the decision assuring you it's no problem! ?

Okay, so the laying guidelines from the company you link says this: Secondly, for fine porcelain stoneware polished tiles, it says waterproof treatment required (this is sometimes only required when installed on floor). Here is a link to the document: https://www.marazzitile.co.uk/media/filer_public/e9/5f/e95f3156-f66b-4e26-9ae8-c51edfe8bd14/posa_manutenzione_marazzi.pdf I reckon you need to call the tile company to get their view of it.

Have these been cut on site, or were they delivered as long and thin? Is this a porous porcelain and have they been fully sealed before installation? Personally I think there are potentially several problems that might arise from this as even if the tiles are tightly butted together, if not sealed, moisture will get in there.

They do look rather nice!

Well, in my haste, I thought I had. Now, I've just realised what I found was clear glazed not obscure glazed. Now I'm back to the search for just this one door! I'm going to make my linings.

Yes, mine uses Knauf Aquapanel, but you can just as readily use skimmed plasterboard, or even plywood as the base.

Scrub that question, problem now solved.

I think you might have hit the nail on the head in that it could be down to the glare. I too have to use my hand or wear a cap sometimes and when I got new clear frame glasses, it made it much worse under some lighting. I was looking at the lighting in a local high end bespoke kitchen manufacturer's showroom just the other day and noticed how comfortable all the lighting was for my eyes. I noticed that any lights with potential glare where either hidden, or had shades to reduce glare to the eyes.

Ah, I know exactly what you mean now. This is how the bungalow lighting was wired before I demolished most of it. Made it really easy for me to add lights and a bathroom fan while we were temporarily living in the place!

I've been looking around online and also with local suppliers for some internal doors - 2040 x 826 - and relevant door linings. I don't know whether it's down to current supply issues, but what I'm finding with this size is that for one specific glazed door, I'm down to choosing either XL Joinery or LDP Doors and with the linings, I'm being told I've got the option of 22mm thick linings because the 28mm linings available are for grooved for 726/838 doors (yes maybe I just need to groove them myself or make my own linings). Jeld-wen only supply this type of door 1981 high and as per discussion with my local rep, they're not accepting bespoke orders right now, or at least not from me! So my main question is whether you can recommend a door supplier and/or manufacturer I can try that isn't necessarily the above two as I'm not 100% convinced of the quality? And also where I might get 28mm thick door linings for 826 doors as it's more expensive for me to buy in finished size timber and make my own linings than buy the sets? Ta!

My two pennies, or for whatever worth, is that it is fundamentally a question of ergonomics. For me, I love cooking and spending a lot of time preparing food on a surface that is too low usually results in back, shoulder and neck discomfort, pain and stiffness. Experience I gained from a number of years working in professional kitchens and then domestic kitchens. I would not accept this for the benefit of my own body. I also have to say it's pretty poor and unprofessional of an architect to accept a major mistake, offer to repair that mistake, but then threaten the working relationship if you, as a client, who is paying a lot of coin for the service to suffer if you want it put right. Frankly, it's disgraceful behaviour and tantamount to blackmail.

Hmm, interesting, thanks. I have little experience with electrics so assume this is a little bit like using a manifold in plumbing? Can you point me in the direction of more info on this so I can read up on it?

For us we just found the wood effect a little plastic and noticably not real - rather it was clear it was vinyl. The Harvey Maria was so apparently real visitors remarked on how nice the wood floor was and asked how we got the aged, washed look to be so authentic. The Karndean floor did stand up to use without any noticable effect but we didn't live with it for long before moving.

Having had Karndean flooring installed in our last place, it was a painful process. Plywood screwed down at something like 150mm centres throughout, filled and sanded butt joints and our fitter even used a self-levelling latex as the subfloor was crap. The actual installation of the floor after this was simple as in comparison. I have to also say that we were slightly disappointed by the Karndean and preferred the vinyl we'd previously had from Harvey Maria.

as @Wil says, I'm not sure this is a lending requirement. Air movement is your greatest enemy when it comes to interstitial condensation so an airtightness barrier is your primary concern, which in older properties and masonry walls is typically either a parge coat or full plaster. Lime plaster is an ideal candidate here You'll also need to look at floor to wall and ceiling to wall junctions and detail those appropriately. Plasterboard and battens would not be sufficient on their own. Not necessarily. @nod is referring to the type of render applied to the outside of the EWI, which is typically a thin-coat render of about 8mm. You can apply ewi to the outside of bad existing render, but you may need to level coat so that you don't end up with excessive voids and thus air movement behind the ewi. This can easily be dealt with by using the correct ewi system. Where you mention soft bricks, that may not be too much of a problem as again, if you did end up with a wall full of voids, this would receive a levelling coat prior to applying the ewi. With this suggested buildup you introduce a non-breathable layer on the inside - the insulated plasterboard. If you then fill the cavity with woodfibre, once moisture gets into this area, it's likely to condense against the cold wall, which can lead to problems. You need to either have a breathable buildup internally, like woodfibre/hemp etc. which is then lime plastered, or use a non breathable buildup which has a fully ventilated cavity (top and bottom vents) between the insulation and the wall - it used to be the case that non-breathable iwi was place against the wall without ventilation but this is no longer recommended practise. With iwi you also need to carefully consider cold bridging at all internal walls, ceiling and floor junction, as well as the loss of space to your rooms. With ewi this is less of a problem. At your 'dpc' level, you can overcome damp concerns by using, for instance, eps or xps ewi boards for the first 30-50 cm up the wall followed by a small break and then use woodfibre ewi above there. You can even run this insulation down into the ground and if you have solid floors, the depth of this (e.g. if it extends ca. 60cm below ground) can actually provide you with a small amount of heat mass advantage in the soil below the house. Either way you do it, you really do need to talk to the technical department of a system manufacturer or distributor and get a condensation analysis done. That way you can make an fully informed decision on which system you're going to use and whether you need to remove the existing pebbledash.