Oz07

Found this on YouTube demonstrating the problem i suppose blown insulation avoids the problem IF it gets in around the trays ok. Probably best to avoid this type of abutment if the insulation can't be don't well and water really does stream down inside of cavity.

I just can't envisage that much water getting in. How many weep vents do you ever see dripping water. How do you know its running down the wall inside?

Is there really a need for cavity trays? When talking cavities 150 or 200mm how likely is it that moisture bridges the cavity. I'm thinking about stepped cavity trays where single storey garage abuts a house. Such a pain to do and if using cavity batts the insulation is never going to be as good around the tray detail. How likely is it any significant amount of water is making its way past the brickwork let alone getting to the inner skin.

Like I say I just used 100mm dpc. Bottom, up sides and onto stooling. Jointed in middle with standard mortar touch weaker if anything. No probs.

Did you literally have the firm commission your mhvr or did you buy any other products or services through them? I struggled to get a decent contractor to commission even after having used a reference from supplier. Maybe an easy fix to the door is a hidden key safe somewhere. We've had one on last 2 houses its good for cleaner and unexpected visitors.

I always thought the only reason for the dpc was so the brick and stone could move differently without cracking the stone. Wet cast stone doesn't need apparently much stronger the dry cast is weaker. You only have to look at them funny and they chip

I don't think moisture from weather during building brings mould later. Isn't mould more to do with humidity and ventilation once finished.

Nothing disastrous to me there. At least your floor deck isn't on. The insulation would surely dry out in time? Stopping the insulation at that dpc level is poor but nothing to do with being exposed to elements. Ideally you want it to overlap the level of pir insulation in floor so say going 225mm below dpc. Id consider having this area of missing insulation blown in with a machine as I think it would effect your real life performance. Any reason for traditional timber joists? It looks a smart job just not common on new build. Was there a big saving vs posi or I joists?

How did you maintain the airtightness with that arrangement? Did you get something like @JohnMo said?

I just used 100mm below and up sides on a previous house. What's the benefit of bringing up behind the stone we don't do this with facing brick

I used a backing board behind the fascia with over fascia vent nailed to top of this. I slid pvc capping boards upto meet the vent.

You may as well go with bottom drawing. No need for floor finish to go any further than the line of your finished wall and looks like your wall is in from the timber frame?

Whats the insurance or safety implications of the 240v lead being run through your site? Could you use one of the big daddy transformers instead or does that not improve the amount of power taken down 1 110v lead?

There was some lindlab on a house I looked at the other week and I was distinctly unimpressed. Is this stuff expensive? It didn't look bad but it didn't strike me as looking any better than pvc. Perhaps the guy used a rubbish range

Are most here doing their own ufh install then? What about manifold connections and pressurising?

They did choose to decomission all their nuclear before Ukraine kicked off proper.

No because the screed would spread the weight of the point load. The only way I could see something like this working is ommitting the insulation below the tray and say 300mm all round, then insulating to the same thickness less 25mm, then replacing this section of insulation with ply. It sounds messy and likely to cause problems, maybe it could work? I am sure others will be on with more tried and tested methods

🤯

Be interested to see the answer here. Id be worried about the shower tray rocking on the insulation. Like if you put all your weight on one corner surely it would dip?

Did you get a good deal on the ply? They must more of less give it away when removing hoarding on big sites?

Id be steering well clear of solvent weld where passing thru a floor slap just put the pipe in and stop worrying

I got one off ebay or amazon about £70 shows co2, temp and humidity. You do get a bit obsessed by it and have to pack it away after awhile

As i say some interesting things you could do but you'd need a bespoke joiners place. Which you could find online. But it won't be one of the big names listed above

I'm not saying we should stop looking after these people. Just that they shouldn't get to vote. After all turkeys don't vote for Christmas.

Stop indulging OPs worries we are here to reassure and dispel stress. We've all been in the trenches