Oz07
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Everything posted by Oz07
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It's difficult to guess in that case then. I doubt you'd have a flat roof in that space. What id guess is a 3x2 or 4x2 timber plate ontop of your window, following each section, then some ceiling joists resting on this plate or window heads, then your rafters joined to these. With a brick or possible stud wall in line with first floor wall as you've said it used to be a bungalow
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Ok then well its probably a lintel in line with first floor walls and the hipped roof built off this resting on the bay window. I doubt its your floor joists cantelivered out as your ceiling is flush inside. Can't you go upstairs and check out the wall below that first floor window? Knock it is it solid or hollow.
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It's a modern house isn't it looking at the brick bond? I'd guess a mono truss arrangement above window although might be wrong as its hipped
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Do you pull the applicant name and details and write them letters ? Dear sirs seen this on planning portal would be interested in purchasing for family home etc etc
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Yeh I know about the cuts being cracked control done it plenty. Just curiosity post people tend to tie ufh pipes to mesh if in slab or alternatively clip to insulation if in screed. Was wondering if the pipes accommodate movement ok if in actual slab with no mesh
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Research height above plate. That's what you're trying to match if you want to keep everything in plane up top.
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I think these responses are being written by AI Is there any way bots can join the forum and post these type of queries or is op just utilising ai to draft their responses. You suspect the original query is copy paste due to the formatting. There have been a couple of posts on this forum recently that make me suspicious. The user the other week quoting replies and inserting spam links.
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In this case I doubt it will be noticeable. It normally happens more when you have a bastard valley. The ones you see are not purposely setting it lower they are just keeping the internal line set flush to the rafters Think of it if you cut a 6x2 at 10 deg it will be near enough 6" across the cut, cut it at 45 degrees and will be a lot longer.
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You're worrying too much if it were a passive new build fair enough. To me it looks like the installers have done an ok job with the circumstances. What did you expect the door to be made 25mm short then insulated below and sit on pvc packers which are cold bridges anyway? To me it looks like your screed has no thermal break to the outside bricks. Completely beyond the remit of some pvc door installers. Atleast they've put you some dpc down, thats above and beyond IMO. If you wanted to sort any potential defects with the way your building was put together you should of ripped the old frame out, done what you needed to do, then had the frame made to suit the alterations. I think your out of order trying to seek redress for this. If your getting a draft a good healthy bead of silicone around the internal and check the locks and seals are adjusted right. That's fair enough.
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Do you not get option for 32mm connection there? Who's your water board? Good idea to come up just inside the garage. If you can tunnel under enough you can get the pipe up through the bottom and just repair dpm with tape and membrane. It's got to be punctured to bring the pipe up through anyway
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Why would you want to make your life harder? If you've already boarded I'd just use the foam.
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It's just because the valleys are on a lower pitch so the plumb cut is higher on the main plane of the roof.
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Fitting heavy triple glazed windows safely on new buildings
Oz07 replied to Simmon's topic in Windows & Glazing
Much less than masonry in the hole then? What is op worried about? Position in cavity? -
32mm is ok round here although the depth you've got isn't good. Are you thinking of a new trench through the garage slab or just a hole to bring it up? Any sketch?
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Welcome... If doing ufh in slab, with the ufh stapled to insulation and no mesh, is this ok with concrete and cutting crack control joints in the top 3rd? Would the pipes likely accommodate any movement the concrete could make
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That foam will cover the gap. I got a good air score last time and didn't worry too much about this junction. Think I just used the foam as above. I would guess its one of the less crucial airtightness details on traditional construction
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Could illbruck foam the gap once boarded if you leave the boards an inch or so off floor gives a good gap to make a nice bead. Cut back flush with board once gone off
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Fitting heavy triple glazed windows safely on new buildings
Oz07 replied to Simmon's topic in Windows & Glazing
Excluding the fact op mentions block of flats do people here really get an SE to design how their windows will be supported in the opening?! For instance if building bog standard building regs you just overhang the cavity by minimum 30mm for part l regs. Nobody worries about whether the masonry will support the glazing. As @FuerteStu says the weight of brickwork in the same opening would be getting on for 250kg plus mortar just on the external skin. -
Someone on here recently did a blog post with their place getting sprayed and back rolled i asked a question in the blog. I'd be paying someone I've tried it before with a cheap sprayer, had to pole sand the lot. As it happens a painter I know on site prefers to mist coat them before the skim has fully dried. Says they drink the paint otherwise too much topping up the roller. Can't really see a problem with this for a mist coat watered down anyway. He gets 150 a plot for mist coat whether it be 2 bed or 4 bed. He can finish them by 1pm and get back to the plot he's in. Has a neat corner roller for internals
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External cavity wall now internal - cold bridging/other issues?
Oz07 replied to NandM's topic in Brick & Block
Is it single storey? Even if its 2 storey if existing is 50mm cavity you might be overthinking this. It's not like the existing building is at passive levels of insulation. It's likely to not be the only cold bridge in the house whats the existing floor insulation? A 4" break should be fine -
Search @nodposts with pcc mentioned. On his most recent build I believe he's used a "guarantee " company who effectively just issue you a pcc i think. Not sure what happens between year 6 and 10 maybe it is a more comprehensive scheme than the architect I've used.
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I use architect who issues pcc
