Oz07

Sorry to drag up old thread. How do you know if the model reolink camera you're looking at does timelapse? Also with these if I have an sd card how much storage does timelapse take up per day/week/month. What's a standard photo rate one every few minutes during daylight hours? Can the reolink camera be hotspotted to your phone so you can download the data without having to fetch the sd card out of it. Even if no WiFi locally.

How big is this house 🤯

How do people get on with solar panels if not shown on planning? Anyone ever had a pull on these?

I meant buying melamine, mirrored doors and hanging rails etc. If you have supply and fit it would say fitted robes.

Doing well then fingers crossed

Lower the better in some respects, like you say just dealing with a 4" hole thru membrane then not trying to make good round half a bend. You could bring it out the wall above your membrane if thats below your insulation layer and lose the pipe in the insulation. Tbf how tall is a rest bend 450mm ish? That doesn't put the invert too deep once you add insulation plus slab.

What about if built into the building like the aussies do. Plasterboard and skim the alcove, set of doors on the front with shelves and hanging rails. Suppose its easier to get more elaborate wardrobes thru if buying materials separately as it won't be a specific invoice for "fitted wardrobes"

If you've not got too much and rake them out thin enough they will just end up as hardcore for your drive or patio. By collecting it your giving yourself a problem. That being said I normally use volumetric lorries for foundation concrete. You've only got to get the amount very rough then to work out to the nearest 8m3

The trim is an angle the same depth as the flooring by about 20 mm wide, silver alluminium from memory. 7mm odd is to go into a channel then prob 7mm gap and 7mm cover onto the lvt. I wouldn't do it without expansion if floating in a big room or one that catches a lot of sun or heat. It does expand in the summer. I never had any probs in kitchen where I used that trim against big patio doors. I did notice my hallway lift slightly on hot days in the summer though where carpet fitters had fitted door bars hard up to lvt at each end of hall

There is a trim for this similar to ones for doorways but its one sided. Not got any pics on my phone

What about fitted wardrobes if shown on drawings too? Log burners these could well be add ons but likewise its a fixed item not going anywhere.

Yeh worth remembering when submitting planning if you want a gazebo or pergola to include in planning drawings

Do certain items have to be specified in planning drawings to qualify for vat reclaim. Not just after thought add ons? Perhaps this is where the discrepancies come in

There's no such thing as a free lunch you're always paying someone to do it. I get your point though if groundworkers quoted you a package with it included. Every time ive built ive got away with an os map on the planning and heights being marked on elevations. Never needed a topo upto now so have always marked out with lines and profiles. I accept its probably not cost effective on a more complex layout though. Particularly if there's other paid work you could be doing. I suppose like all self build its a trade off of time for£

Id have just done it to a level top of conc originally anyway. You can still step the bottom of the trench and keep the concrete top level the same providing minimum depth is achieved

It was probably just a standard mix it seemed like your wagon could get all around the building.

They are good. What did he charge per visit? Do you have to have 3 visits including initial topo of site?

I think its limestone type1 ish stuff for a base just to get out the mud isnt it?

Did you have a normal mix or use that trench flow stuff? Your gear flowed pretty well. Fair play to the driver I wouldnt of thought they would drive on mud like that. What time of year was it?

Also I think you have to specify a pump mix so they dont just water it down. Best bet is to hire pump and concrete off same firm or at least 2 who regularly work together.

I'm not sure about crittall I'm more talking with timber windows. If you look at one with stick on bars and one with individual glazed units you do see the light reflected differently. I'd never heard of it either before making windows to please CO

You've got to have a chat with local CO. When i was looking into it I understand it is very variable on what the individual CO thinks. Also I gleaned a lot of info off a facebook group listed buildings or something like that. This is a common query on there. Some have been successful others not.

Some CO dont like this as they say the panes dont litter the light. In other words no different reflection. A lot prefer super thin individual units on listed.

Are fibre more accurate than steel then? I always assumed the opposite. Don't tapes have different grades of accuracy? Like a, b, c etc?

Ah I didn't know how they load the original map I assumed it was os. Round here the councils still dont require topo as part of planning so you can just say dwelling 150mm above finished ground or x mm above ffl of adjacent house. When I'm setting out I just pick whatever my most important boundary is and go of that. If the house is shown 5m off the front for instance I'd pick that and if its a hundred or couple of hundred mm different at the back due to boundary features not tallying up then so be it.