Oz07

I've also cut sections out before and noggin between

Just looked. Glued glass to sash. Must be expensive if unit fails or gets broken? I think that would put me off

What makes a better profile?

Which are the best upvc profiles? They all claim to be! @craig

Yeh tractor maybe get a separate policy. You might just find the insurers will want to load the policy if you start adding personal items.

How much are the contents at risk in garage likely to be worth? Will insurance be worth the hassle?

I think a lot more energy goes into producing steel. I bet you would find a keto type product is cheaper vs steel in the states where they seem to use timber products a lot more

Did you price it up vs steel? Not sure if just went to a dear supplier but had a price years ago and steel was cheaper. Crazy.

I think there might be 2 kinds of spray or that could just be bull. I've had it before when someone has said ive put the good spray on for you in case tiling the floor or something. Maybe acrylic vs non acrylic?

Glad you ignored any naysayers. Its lovely stuff.

1 section. Its quite common to have a hole like this somewhere. On some sites they cut a hole 1400 by about 200 to pass plasterboard up through then nog and patch after.

Use the 8x2

Smear in clear silicone is what nhbc inspectors look for below sinks where waste cut into shelf.

Isn't that the planners job though, to visit site and look at how the proposed scheme would fit in?

As in you only have FCU in the summer house?

How big is an 800w kit? Presumably you can only have 1 kit per house or per ring main or whatever? I am thinking of a pergola with solar on top in summer and put away for the winter to let more light in

Do you have any pics of your pipes pre boarding the walls/ceiling? Also any of the finished units?

On 2. I did a survey of levels of my plot Sunday and I did drop the staff into the manhole to check the invert level. I knew I had miles of room but its not a bad thing to record if easy access to the drain. Nice to know you can get your pipe underneath your floor build up if nessecary, or pick your ffl level up a bit if things are really tight for fall.

The "smart" ones a pretty decent ent

I can believe it. Have they ever measured the rise of each tread though?

I would still prefer joint under the building in direction of flow with accessible stub stack and swap your current manhole location for a rodding point. Have you got plenty of fall to play with to give it a nice flow if doing it your original way?

Just think of the manhole as an inspection access, use the straight through runs and put your bends just before and after connection. You might end up with 4no. 30deg bends on that so 2 before 2 after

On site its normally always patrices set flush with the studs as @Nickfromwales photo or a beefy timber if you know the fixing height. Likely to be somewhere close to 800mm on a basin? I wouldnt personally want tiles on ply. Its likely to move more than pb as in shrink and expand. Then you've got to seal it or whatever. Just bang some roofing lath up the sides of the studs. Set it the thickness of osb board back then fill in with the osb or ply. On developer sites they use 10mm osb, bit mincey I think but it works for them.

I've never personally seen a bco measure a set or stairs although I'm sure its been known to happen. I think 25mm at the bottom isn't too bad. You could always explain that you are likely to have a different thickness flooring on gf to what is covering stairs. I'd be tempted to have a friendly chat with bco and sound him out. Explain you want a bigger bottom step to give you flexibility on finished floor options at the bottom. See what he says.