Oz07

1 section. Its quite common to have a hole like this somewhere. On some sites they cut a hole 1400 by about 200 to pass plasterboard up through then nog and patch after.

Use the 8x2

Smear in clear silicone is what nhbc inspectors look for below sinks where waste cut into shelf.

Isn't that the planners job though, to visit site and look at how the proposed scheme would fit in?

As in you only have FCU in the summer house?

How big is an 800w kit? Presumably you can only have 1 kit per house or per ring main or whatever? I am thinking of a pergola with solar on top in summer and put away for the winter to let more light in

Do you have any pics of your pipes pre boarding the walls/ceiling? Also any of the finished units?

On 2. I did a survey of levels of my plot Sunday and I did drop the staff into the manhole to check the invert level. I knew I had miles of room but its not a bad thing to record if easy access to the drain. Nice to know you can get your pipe underneath your floor build up if nessecary, or pick your ffl level up a bit if things are really tight for fall.

The "smart" ones a pretty decent ent

I can believe it. Have they ever measured the rise of each tread though?

I would still prefer joint under the building in direction of flow with accessible stub stack and swap your current manhole location for a rodding point. Have you got plenty of fall to play with to give it a nice flow if doing it your original way?

Just think of the manhole as an inspection access, use the straight through runs and put your bends just before and after connection. You might end up with 4no. 30deg bends on that so 2 before 2 after

On site its normally always patrices set flush with the studs as @Nickfromwales photo or a beefy timber if you know the fixing height. Likely to be somewhere close to 800mm on a basin? I wouldnt personally want tiles on ply. Its likely to move more than pb as in shrink and expand. Then you've got to seal it or whatever. Just bang some roofing lath up the sides of the studs. Set it the thickness of osb board back then fill in with the osb or ply. On developer sites they use 10mm osb, bit mincey I think but it works for them.

I've never personally seen a bco measure a set or stairs although I'm sure its been known to happen. I think 25mm at the bottom isn't too bad. You could always explain that you are likely to have a different thickness flooring on gf to what is covering stairs. I'd be tempted to have a friendly chat with bco and sound him out. Explain you want a bigger bottom step to give you flexibility on finished floor options at the bottom. See what he says.

@JohnMo did I mention hot tub or has something gone haywire with the forum? Anyway I'm all for hot tub and aircon and whatever else people want to use energy for. Knock yourself out as far as I'm concerned would love to be sitting in a hot tub right now.

I just don't agree with charging high users more per unit. The price is the price. Why punish people for using more? Let's just focus on energy abundance. Improve the generation capacity. Same story with water really, increase supply or storage. Countries with reasonable energy prices can afford to desalinate.

Why? That is terrible. Is it so the pipe is joined outside the building? I've had pipes join under a building before probably isn't best practice but when you see something like this it hurts your eyes. In my case the stub stack coming up might have been accessible to rod a blockage thru so maybe thats why was ok. If you do want it going into that manhole it can be done but just take a long swing into the 90 deg connection of the manhole. You want to be forming a slow bend in connections so the waste is already flowing around.

Without wanting to get in to a slagging match why would you want to punish high energy users? Surely the attitude should be I want us as a country to produce as much energy, reliably and as cheaply as possible (plus cleanly if that bothers you). It just seems such a backwards way of thinking to me and feels like it's why we're in the position we are.

Hasn't there been issues here before mixing business interests with forum advice? I know thats not where you're coming from with it but I seem to remember some aggro previously.

Beware the tool less change does start to play up after a few years i scratch around with a screw in the hole then tap and blow the dust out seems to sort it. I'm running 2 atm. One for rubbish dusty work and a new one for cutting timber.

They have sensible energy prices unlike here. Even in Australia its not unheard of for them to have aircon in their garage or tool shed. Another quirk i find they seem to be able to build a lot more custom things. It appears to me they can stick build with timber over there and as long as they follow local codes they're good to go. I feel like over here we need to involve a structural engineer for every thing unless its an approved detail.

Thought they were a bodgers tool before I bought one. Great bits of kit.

Would it be possible to cool the accumulator in any way?

I don't think there are any regs for insulating cold water pipes in domestic dwelling. I've certainly seen plenty of un insulated pipes in my time. Are you looking to claim from the plumber? I don't think they problem is avoidable if you have a tank in the house at room temperature regardless what you do with the pipes.