Oz07

This reads like AI. Usually the beams are bowed upwards and you use SCC for the floating concrete top with insulation in-between. The concrete levels the surface out so its thinner in the middle, thicker at the edges. Has the floor moved since the concrete was poured? Do you mean you surveyed a 5x5m square, seems a big room but 500mm square seems to small to judge anything.

Join facebook group like bricklaying jobs in xxx area. You can be very strict in your wording of the post which should filter out a lot of shit. Then your getting people who are actively looking for a start rather than begging people who are booked up. I know its better to use a reccomend trade but not all good guys are always busy. You will get some finishing on a job looking for their next start. Especially with the way new build sites are slowing down. You can afford to pay better than the barrons.

Like these charcoal blocks. Basically as @Russell griffiths says finish slab inline with internal wall

I've stopped mine short before and used kerb units on edge for the final bit. I don't think it matters massively

What about below slab and insulation in flexible duct/conduit. Id imagine the ground under a floorslab doesn't get as cold as the ground outside your house ie below patio

Why isn't it at risk if below insulation?

Good to know. Other half wants an island in new place and with ufh you'd be getting lukewarm out the tap. How deep did you go or literally just below insulation?

I've done manifold before to each appliance. Good for maintenance purposes. Also meant I could run the pipework whereas I wouldn't be confident doing all the fittings.

Do you not have to worry about freezing?

It sounds like you're being quoted for the gold standard when you don't really need that. You will need a good builder though and the bad ones won't follow super specific drawing details anyway so whats the point. An architect who quoted mine allowed for a plan for electrics. Not needed in my case I'm quite comfortable marking a drawing up with what I want and where.

Maybe you had a bad supplier? I've never had this

Any threads on here or case studies with it? Sounds interesting. Is it cheap?

Rear elevation on our new place is planned with 2 modest sliding patio doors and a single standard door on the utility. Is there a way to have the sliding doors slightly open but secure? I know back in the day we used to put a stick in the bottom rail as a sort of dead lock. I know in oz they have secure fly screen doors in front of the glass sliders. I am just wondering how I can leave the doors slightly open to get some air in for night purging etc while still having it secure.

Does this apply for A2A or do they switch between heat and cooling fine?

What could be less aggressive than an aircon unit for each room? Or you mean atleast you've planned for it so no reason routing services? Have you taken a condensate to each ac location?

Why are some wall mounted, like aircon and some floor mounted like radiators? I need to visit a house with these working.

Just similar to an aircon unit then?

Are the fan coils excessively noisy then?

So bit like radiators bigger fan coils for lower flow temp difference between target and flow. Any pics of your units so I can see how they look. I suppose I really need my detailed drawings and heat loss calcs before I start looking which will be some time off. I can tell its going to be hard work finding the right gear if I have to start looking at MI's

Good to know it will be less than i thought. Is there a good brand of fan coil to get or do you try and match the manufacturer of the heat pump? Presuming these heat if needed in winter too? When you say other option run at same temperature do you mean same temp as UFH? I'm pretty sure we can manage without the artic blast of AC as long as the fcu are effective. I am trying to take steps to reduce heat gain i have asked architect to specify a pergola off rear SE elevation with climbing plants on it. Should keep the worst of midday sun off the patio glazing. Running a condensate with dry trap wouldnt be the hardest job in the world but it sounds like these fcu are going to make the system simpler.

How do you keep the flow temp above the dew point? Is it a set static temperature or does it depend on the outside air temp and/or humidity. Do you have to do the same with the ufh? Does the system take care of this or do you manually have to set some kind of stat?

Taking off few courses is easiest. There may be an alternative though. How much higher is ffl than the top of your current blockwork level. Instead of the planned buildup can you not do mot, dpm, insulation, gas membrane, self compacting concrete slab. No screed needed and brings your membrane level up higher so stripping off less masonry or maybe none? Why have you sacked brickie 2 is it to do with this or something else?

blockwork looks much better this time!

I think i'd be digging out the pea gravel, bedding and surrounding these in lean mix concrete. Possibly a 25mm bit of eps where the pipe joint is to allow some movement. You don't really want the ground at the edge of you slab settling.

Do you need a condensate drain in the wall for these air cons and fan coils presumably?