Oz07

The trim is an angle the same depth as the flooring by about 20 mm wide, silver alluminium from memory. 7mm odd is to go into a channel then prob 7mm gap and 7mm cover onto the lvt. I wouldn't do it without expansion if floating in a big room or one that catches a lot of sun or heat. It does expand in the summer. I never had any probs in kitchen where I used that trim against big patio doors. I did notice my hallway lift slightly on hot days in the summer though where carpet fitters had fitted door bars hard up to lvt at each end of hall

There is a trim for this similar to ones for doorways but its one sided. Not got any pics on my phone

What about fitted wardrobes if shown on drawings too? Log burners these could well be add ons but likewise its a fixed item not going anywhere.

Yeh worth remembering when submitting planning if you want a gazebo or pergola to include in planning drawings

Do certain items have to be specified in planning drawings to qualify for vat reclaim. Not just after thought add ons? Perhaps this is where the discrepancies come in

There's no such thing as a free lunch you're always paying someone to do it. I get your point though if groundworkers quoted you a package with it included. Every time ive built ive got away with an os map on the planning and heights being marked on elevations. Never needed a topo upto now so have always marked out with lines and profiles. I accept its probably not cost effective on a more complex layout though. Particularly if there's other paid work you could be doing. I suppose like all self build its a trade off of time for£

Id have just done it to a level top of conc originally anyway. You can still step the bottom of the trench and keep the concrete top level the same providing minimum depth is achieved

It was probably just a standard mix it seemed like your wagon could get all around the building.

They are good. What did he charge per visit? Do you have to have 3 visits including initial topo of site?

I think its limestone type1 ish stuff for a base just to get out the mud isnt it?

Did you have a normal mix or use that trench flow stuff? Your gear flowed pretty well. Fair play to the driver I wouldnt of thought they would drive on mud like that. What time of year was it?

Also I think you have to specify a pump mix so they dont just water it down. Best bet is to hire pump and concrete off same firm or at least 2 who regularly work together.

I'm not sure about crittall I'm more talking with timber windows. If you look at one with stick on bars and one with individual glazed units you do see the light reflected differently. I'd never heard of it either before making windows to please CO

You've got to have a chat with local CO. When i was looking into it I understand it is very variable on what the individual CO thinks. Also I gleaned a lot of info off a facebook group listed buildings or something like that. This is a common query on there. Some have been successful others not.

Some CO dont like this as they say the panes dont litter the light. In other words no different reflection. A lot prefer super thin individual units on listed.

Are fibre more accurate than steel then? I always assumed the opposite. Don't tapes have different grades of accuracy? Like a, b, c etc?

Ah I didn't know how they load the original map I assumed it was os. Round here the councils still dont require topo as part of planning so you can just say dwelling 150mm above finished ground or x mm above ffl of adjacent house. When I'm setting out I just pick whatever my most important boundary is and go of that. If the house is shown 5m off the front for instance I'd pick that and if its a hundred or couple of hundred mm different at the back due to boundary features not tallying up then so be it.

If I can wrap my head around how they work I'd consider it. Whereabouts in the country are you?

@flanagaj if I remember isnt your footprint just a long rectangle? Should be easy to diy mark if so.

Thats insane 100mm on 30m was it stretching or was it just always 100mm out on the markings on the tape?

I've always used profile boards and triangulation. Tbf on the last one my laser marked the first 90deg so just double checked with the tape and all was good. Once you've got profiles for your two longest walls its easy. I could talk you through how to do it but might be better off with engineer if not confident. Its probably a mugs game anyway takes a day and usually best to have 2 people. Bet it works out cheaper to pay a pro. I'd love to have a go on one of those total stations and see how they work it must be like magic. How do they compute if site boundaries not as per OS maps?!

Yeh trenches be fine. I'd like to think now we are past the stage of hard ground frosts. I'd like to think we're past the window scraper stage tbh

I never used any in this type of scenario. Just cut a tight fit. You'll be on a flat enough surface with it being b&b should be able to keep everything nice and flat and square.

Do you have to put a slither of dpc where the pir hits the brickwork? I like the closers tbf think they are neat. Probably a cold bridge though?

Do you need se now for standard strip footings? Back in the day just used to be able to dig and refer to a tree table if needed. I have heard nowadays bco want things designed?