Alan Ambrose

Yeah, maybe as you're not building in front of the front elevation. Depending on your LPA, you might be able to get informal advice, or just put in some simple plans for pre-app discussion.

>>> Because of this feedback (and time constraints on the sale of our house) I was thinking about submitting two planning applications but a few weeks apart. Actually if you submit them on the same day, there's a discount on the 2nd application. I did that, and I think it's fine. I think there's even a little bit of 'which one do we prefer' thinking at the LPA, which usefully assumes one will get through.

>>> Not sure if I’m dealing with two separate departments that aren’t communicating with each other. I believe this is the same department for most DNOs, sometimes called 'wayleaves dept' - maybe two different people though. Offer to connect them up ?

Maybe argue your case politely, with humour and as best you can (examples of other buildings etc) and negotiate to-and-fro over stuff that doesn't matter that much to you. That's up to the point they say they will refuse for these reasons. ... then decide whether the features you want are important enough to go to an appeal over.

Gardening: FBN49 leather gloves from eBay - surprisingly thorn proof. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=FBN49&_sacat=0 General: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QSHHT4Z?ref_=pe_27063361_487360311_302_E_DDE_dt_1 In both cases, much cheaper if you buy a bunch (the correct collective noun for gloves) at one time. Proper protection but not cheap: Mechanix Gloves https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=mechanix&i=industrial&crid=71M0EV3R27PS&sprefix=mechanix%2Cindustrial%2C77&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 For painting / glueing / oily machinery / keeping c..p off your hands - Screwfix 807HY nitrile

>>> The inspector forces the council to respond to the application. >>> I was advised not to go to a non determination appeal as it stops the clock, effectively refuses planning and even if you win the appeal you have to resubmit and they ‘guarantee’ an 8 week response. Ah this is interesting .... are you suggesting that the inspector will just twist the LPA's arm? This is what 'Planning Aid England' thinks: The Secretary of State appoints an Inspector from the Planning Inspectorate to consider the application. As part of the appeal process the LPA will be asked to explain why the application was not determined within the specified time and what their decision would have been if they had determined the application. An Inspector when assessing this type of appeal will ultimately also be determining the application. ... suggesting the the inspector becomes the decision maker instead of the LPA?

I did just issue a complaint to the ASA. I think playing dumb about the smart tariffs they advertise while claiming at the same time to be "The only energy firm we’ve awarded Which? Recommended Provider status to more than twice" ... is definitely not "legal, decent, honest or truthful".

My LPA (East Suffolk) seems to just ignore the '8-week or agree timescale' rule ... amongst others. Yeah you can do the non-determination appeal thing but (a) that's probably 6 months delay, (b) also probably as capricious as the standard LPA process and (c) you have to make an educated guess of the LPA's objections in the appeal statement (FFS). "Where the appeal is against non-determination, it must address the areas that you consider most likely to comprise the local planning authority’s objections to the development proposed;" I'm sure my LPA is very familiar with the territory and that's why they simply ignore the 8-week rule. My questions are: (a) how normal is this? (b) am I right in thinking that the LPA's behaviour will be simply ignored by the Inspector (as isn't actually relevant to the planning decision)?

Hmm, I just moved two properties (on two separate accounts FWIW) to Octopus so I could use some of the smart-meter tariffs that they advertise. Each location showed (and still shows) about 10 options for variable domestic tariffs on Octopus's quotes page. One property had a smart meter already and was switched to Octopus on 1st July, one was switched to Octopus 23rd March and has had a smart meter installed by Octopus 3 weeks ago. Octopus is picking up meter data from both properties and showing it on both their app and account web page. Now I'm signed up, under the 'change my tariff' button, both accounts show only 'Local Octopus 12M Fixed' and 'Flexible Octopus' i.e. no smart meter tariffs. I actually wanted the 'Tracker' tariff for both properties. I have been onto Octopus support many times now, and they have no idea (or are not saying) what is going on. One one account I'm getting this kind of thing: "We do offer a range of tariffs, but availability can vary depending on your location and meter type. I understand that this may be frustrating, but we always aim to offer the best possible tariffs to our customers based on their specific circumstances." They are, of course, still advertising 10 domestic variable rate tariffs at this post code. O n the other account, I specifically asked to be moved to the 'Tracker' tariff. The response was: "Unfortunately, only 50000 members could go on this tariff these spaces have been filled so we cannot put you automatically on this tariff." They are, of course, still advertising 10 domestic variable rate tariffs, including 'Tracker', at this post code. Now that's just blatant bait-and-switch, false advertising stuff. So: (1) Is Octopus BS? Fodder for Martin Lewis / Which / Advertising Standards etc? (2) Are their systems just screwed up and their support people too dumb or misinformed to tell? (3) Will their systems eventually catch up, and make the smart meter tariffs available? (3) Something else? TIA, Alan

Nice, congrats

I think that on another thread here, it's been pointed out that it's the neighbours who police the planning conditions... If they're happy, then you'll have no problem.

Yeah I would have the pipes running downhill . Sorry, couldn't resist. Some more knowledgeable and serious people will be along shortly...

I found: https://www.renderedimage.uk/ https://offplan3d.com/architectural-visualization/verified-views-and-architectural-photomontage/ etc. Canski offered up https://www.whitechalk.co.uk/ (thanks) as people who regularly spammed him. I'm currently using a guy on fiverr who seems to be professional and very reasonable. I'll put a link up on here when I receive the results, assuming they're good.

A bit of an update for anyone doing this in future... The search term to use is 'architectural photomontage services'. There are 2/3/4 separate graphics tasks, not all graphics people can/will do all: + Model in 3D model to get 3D shape, probably with no or c..p materials/textures on. + Paint some decent materials/textures onto the model. + Adjust lighting / white balance etc etc to approximately match the donor images. + Tweak the chosen images for lens distortion etc and remove any unwanted artifacts, objects etc. + Position the painted 3D models on the chosen images, in the right place/orientation. + Cut out from the tweaked images any bits of the foreground that need to be super-imposed and place over. Voila.

Ah thanks, very interesting info.

FYI - a guy who's doing a little photomontage work for me is using Enscape.

OK here's my longer response: Firstly, the cheap stuff is very 'consumer-grade' - cheap and cheerful and it won't last long. Second, there are various sizes of pipes which are close. They don't mix and match. Choose one from one of the main brands with matching fittings. I wouldn't use 'micro-irrigation' (the little 4/6mm tube and baby sprinklers etc) on anything but clay pots or, say, a roof terrace. Putting the tubes and fittings together is a major faff, use a kettle of hot water, pliers, zip ties and two kinds of seal (say tape and gunge). Put a bunch of garden taps around on black MPDE 25mm pipe with decent fittings (Plasson etc), shut off and drain down valves, and a pressure reducer and non-reversible valve. That all works fairly well and is robust. If you're going to use consumer grade timers, provide extra 3/4" outlets for those and shutoff valves. You may still need extra pressure reducers for those - the ones generally available are hopeless and will fail. You'll need to remove the timers over winter otherwise they'll freeze up and burst. They'll fail anyway and you'll be lucky if they last for 2 years. Don't use this style, or anything which looks similar: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aqualin-Outlet-Electronic-Garden-irrigation/dp/B01N6RJRZ2/ref=sr_1_30?crid=25E1QTCSQUX8P&keywords=water+timer&qid=1688402729&sprefix=water+timer%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-30 - I've had two fail on install and another fail since. You'll still need to watch the timers - because they fail and because you'll want to adjust the times depending on the time of year. Otherwise you'll lose plants in the hot weather or get mould in the autumn. The fittings on the timers will probably leak anyway. If you look at garden centres / south of France gardens etc, you'll see they do use 13/14mm drip line. The Americans also have proper motorised valves in sunken chambers and get contractors to blow the water out of the lines every wintertime.

p.s. so you could just try asking them

>>> It can be very expensive to prep the site for lorries. If you do it half baked then you will need to keep putting more stone on top. Yes, that's why I was trying to get it right. It'll mostly be driveway, so it'll also be advance driveway prep. >>> I have measured the distances for you in the hope that they will give you confidence ... So the distance from the gate to the car port structure is 19 metres. If you were to include the bellmouth [driveway approach] and the width of single lane thereafter, the 19 metres becomes 25 metres. Thanks, super useful. Never underestimate how helpful BH members will be Let me lay that out on my plot and I'll report back.

What software do architects use for (a) design & drawings, (b) rendering? I was recommended D5 for rendering and I'm wondering if there are other options too.

>>> A decent driver will get into places many would struggle to get a car, the turning circles are space needed without shunting so forget these That's not really helping. You're telling me I'm wrong without giving me a clue what the right answer is . Surely somebody here has some rules of thumb for what the dimensions required are for (a) absolute minimum and (b) reasonably comfortable access? I'm trying to figure out whether I can build a garage to the front of the property early on or whether I really need that space for access.

Unlike our planners, our local CIL people are very easy to contact and have a practical discussion with. But no time limit to my knowledge, so anytime between getting planning permission and starting to build.

Conventional stuff is at e.g. waterirrigation.co.uk Some cheap no-name kits on Amazon. None of it is great imho. You typically use a water timer - check out e.g. Orbit products. I’ll write more when I get a few minutes.

OK thanks - I have a space about 20x20m in from of the house. FYI I'm seeing numbers like: + 7.5T - 8.35x2.5m - 12m turning circle + 26T 6m^3 concrete truck - 8.7x2.55m - 16m turning circle + 32T 8m^3 concrete truck - 9.2x2.55m - 22m turning circle Viz https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/truck-information https://www.cemex.co.uk/documents/45807659/46067062/Readymix H&S leaflet_2019_Latest.pdf/ I'll have to get out the protractor...

>>> I usually do windows 2100mm from the floor, 1200mm high. More skylights than windows then?