Andeh

That looks suspicious to me,

We have similar, but only realised it part way through fitting. So we've got a property we worked hard on getting a reasonable air tightness....then stuck a great big Stovax dual sided stove in it with the air inlet kit creating a 4" direct feed sat underneath it. Live and learn The stoves worth it though, even if we live with a knock to the air tightness, and despite wibbling about it for ages... I have NEVER noticed a draft around it, even on windy days. And with our total energy bills averaging out at about £150/month for a very large and sprawling bungalow, with very heavy usage and a large background drain, (server, CCTV, full networking setup, dehumidify in garage etc) ... I'm delighted all round!

Have you looked at YouTube for possible solutions for leak tracking like this? Otherwise a very hot day, try and let everything warm up, then cold cold water and a thermal camera?? Random idea!

I'm not ashamed to say I watched that twice, that shits cool.

Yeah, it isn't foolproof and has caught me out as well before! Have a look at a few YouTube videos before you use it.

So they have a cap they installed 3m deep, somehow by digging and literally putting a 700mm slab on top of it? Then an additional one done at surface level... Or do they back full in top of it? Very interesting!

Got the MVHR in boost atm to refresh the air inside as I get into bed, prob about 10% as effective as our actual AC units. If you want swift and effective cooling, you can't beat a proper AC Unit. Duct it through the window and accept it isn't perfect, but it is effective.

Was it driven or used as a driveway before the concrete at all?

Just if it's possible to see how deep the MOT is. What was the original driveway surface? All I'm saying is if the ground was a compacted previous driveway, with mot whacked down well, then 4" of concrete... That's not an unreasonable light usage driveway from my amateur thinking. OK the colour has washed away, but concrete stain will hopefully resolve that. Just to try and offer some positive thoughts!

Capping a mine shaft? I'd love to know more about what it involved size, what the mine shaft was... Very interesting!

Have you tried digging at the edges to see how deep the sub layers are? That edge cracking isn't as bad as I assumed when you described it!

We have Johnstone storm shield thin coat, I think it is, and I tried a pressure washer on a section that needed redoing. At about 6-12" you could blast the white off the sort of mini beads inside, but over two feet away and at an angle 'seemed' fine! I don't go about closer then about 3-4 feet to be on the safe side.

I'm the first person to despise big companies not supporting, and blocking right to repair etc... But a 10 year device, which is still functional just without remote control.... Doesn't seem totally unreasonable!! We'd all be bemoaning it if they changed it to a subscription model to keep the support going... One way or another nothing lasts forever!

Makes you wonder how effective a carpet cleaning machine would be with the rotating and pulsating brushes, hot water/foaming agent and then a good suction at the end?? Would be worth a trial for the sake of a hire cost and your neighbours thinking you're mad!

I don't think that's fair, and I totally disagree... Ironically enough, was something I was actually looking at last night.... I think the below rating for BBC is spot on. https://www.allsides.com/media-bias/fact-check-bias-chart https://www.allsides.com/news-source/bbc-news-media-bias

I'd do some posh acro drain all the way round, feeding into the drains you've already got. Grout in some nice tile trim prices. Would do the job fine.

We bought a large shed from Nordic Timber Buildings, and had a couple of issues due to a heavily modified shed I asked for... However they were brilliant in resolving it all. Quick, patient and despite my OCD/excessive need for over engineering they were brilliant. https://www.nordictimberbuildings.com/

We had cables poking out for cctv, and they just rendered around them. Little bit messy within 15mm, but as a box would go over it wasn't an issue. Any render on the wire itself can be pushed off.

We did the feed and return to a second manifold, and some rads, within the insulation, below screed. No issues. Don't bury any joints down there though!!!!

Ah mate, compared to some new builds with heavy furniture on the chipboard and joists, that's perfect! You're building a house, not a rocket ship.... As long as the bubble is between the two lines, focus your energy elsewhere. FWIW took us 2 years to realise our cemfloor corridor floor was on the piss, after wife used a tripod laser level to measure a line for a 50% up the wall painting job. Each doorway varied by a cm or two due to the cemfloor seemingly not being level.

Just shows you can over think this all, but all the pics in this thread look really good in their own right!

We have UFH in ours, but it never comes on naturally due to ambiance. You do notice the cold floor in there mid winter when you're doing the laundry though, first World problem, so I boost it (we're zoned per room) on the cheap rates just for a couple of hours to counter act this

We had our MVHR commissioned a couple of years ago. Done properly as I watched him I'd most as I worked around the build. I noticed that two of the vents I can reach, one is blowing noticeably more then the other both still seemed to be 'locked off'. I can't imagine a hose has blown off or something as air flow exists both, one more then the other. Can't check the rest of the house, as need a ladder and some careful balencing. Anyone know the name of the fan used during commissioning, or how I could recalibrate with DIY fan measuring?

Pex pipe is really robust stuff, is it a nail through it? 100% sure it isn't a dodgy fitting? What's the make up of the sub floor? Any way to run a draw cord and pull a new pipe through the space? Any pics? How far apart is the run? Two access hatches and work something between the two? Otherwise 10mm pipe isnt uncommon to run a radiator, sleeve could be an option unless the nail through the original pipe blocks it!

Are the slabs loose, rocking or wobbly? The build up isn't ideal if it's made up ground. IANAL but drainage behind that wall, seeing as it has such a large tiled surface covering and heavy rain will make it to the drain, isn't a disaster. Why a cavity wall for retaining? Why isn't the cavity filled? The challenge you've got, is that to fix anything there is a major job. And unless there are material failures, which those photos don't show, you're on a hiding to nothing. If things turn worse in several months, years etc time pry up tiles and relay in flexible adhesive and crack mat...... Being pragmatic, your not gunna want to restart it all.