Andeh

Sorry to bump am old thread, but can you set the Samsung to output two different heating temps ie 35degrees for UFH and 50degrees for radiators? Our towel rails are on a separate zone to the zone 1 and zone 2 for our UFH loops... I would like them to be boosted to 50degrees for 15mins before shower time then shut off, to warm the towels and/or speed up the drying of them. I tried this today, and the outlet temp hit 37degrees then after about 15mins shut off (short cycling?).... But I'd like it to do this but at 50degrees... I don't think joules have set it up correctly like this though? So just asking for advice on menus to set the zone 3 temp different to the zone 1 and 2! Thanks

Just a shot in the dark if anyone has any ideas? Worse case I will just use the manual circuit isolators plumber installed to manually shut off flow to garage if we want towel rails, and then do the same for towel rails when we want to use garage. Garage thermostat is wasted then, but can blank it until/if we ever use it as a grannie annex (and accept we lose the towel rails), and just use a timer to control the towel rails. (Until then we'll use towel rails for a 30min timed cycle to warm towels each even to prevent short cycling.)

Bathroom alcoves with lights inside, adds a real nice feature to bathrooms and can be done cheaply if designed in! Higher and wider doorways for main rooms.

Thanks Matt, is that with the intermediate switch? As that's the one in the critical location to make it work for us? Any wiring diagrams to articulate what you mean please? Thanks

Pics of what It looks like.... You can see the top pipe above heating zone 1 and heating zone 2 (from the joules controller) goes down and splits into the two feed to rads and towel rails, with the 2 zone controllers in line with each. Wiring for these zone valves disappears into the controller. I suspect wired together so they both open and close together? But then I have a thermostat in the garage, which I assume controls this circuit. Electrician didn't say he was planning on wiring a timer for the towel rails... But I don't know how this would interact with the garage stay (other then double control it??)

We have 3 large towel rails on large pipe runs, but short cycling is a risk. They'd only ever be used for a burst of warmth to warm towels as anything more and we'd over heat the rooms. The rads in the garage are significantly over sized. We had an electrician & plumber that were all to happy to fit first, charge us then ask questions later & suggest what we did was daft....this being the example of over complicated plumbing that the plumber never thought to educate us on (ie charged for all the pipes, zone valves and fitting.... Then declared he doesn't think it will work). Wish I'd found build hub in time....!! We do run weather compensation on Samsung Gen6 controller. Ambition is UFH is all individually zoned per room BUT controlled as two big zones (basically two sides of a large bungalow, with a small central entrance hallway) - bedrooms kept slightly cooler (19 degs ish) then the kitchen/lounge areas (21 degs ish). Just seeing if there is way of controlling the circuits individually off the single joules "3rd output".

Thanks Tony! Please see attached photos of the three switches. All work as manual "on" over rides.

We had a suspect leak in our Sika Trocal membrane, and the team turned up an electrical device where they wet the roof ( i think, cant remember if it needed to be wet or dry) and used a sort of electrical handheld roller to go over all the joins. Something about water 'leak route' making the electrical circuit which made leak finding pretty reliable & quick even on large roofs with lots of joints. It was over a year ago so i cant remember the details, but I suggest a leak detecting specialist in your area would know of this tool & if it would work for you? Telclad were the company we used & a helpful bunch, Lewis was our main guy who used the device...I only saw it for about 10mins before work, then we found the leak around a skylight through other means - not enough flashing and water was rushing don the roof & up the skylight and in.

As part of our property we specced UFH in two zones....then towels rails, and separate radiators in the garage (for a future potential grannie annex/working in the garage in the winter - garage is insulated) - so 4 circuits that all teminate in the plant room, each with their own zone value. The 2 x UFH zones are plumbed off the ASHP outputs 1 and 2, then the 3rd output feeds a pipe which splits into the towel rails & garage rads via a sort of split pipe, then each has its own zone value zone valve on it (not wired up right now). What I expected was for the towel rail circuit & garage radiators circuit to be on two separate loops (as they are), with the ability to control them individually. We have a stat in the garage (grannie annex...) and then I asked for a timer for the towel rads. Builder/his team are scratching their heads & don't think it can be done, Joules arn't being overly interested and just 'suggest' their system only support 3 zones and therefore towels & garage must be on one. I cant help but think there must be a way for each of the 2 zone values (rads + garage) to independently open 'their circuit' and call for heat, for the ASHP's 3rd output to release the heat and down the right circuit it goes?! Does anyone know of work around where the zone value for the Towels & garages can independently call for heat, without both actuating? (other then manually isolating them) thanks!

If trades were trusted, reliable and did their job first time.... This forum would be a bloody quiet corner of the Internet!!!!

Thanks Tony, have you ever come across an automatic intermediate switch? Unfortunately he can be patchy on these finishing details...... Hence desire to try and avoid using him other then this last headache I'm trying to work through!

We are moving in & I am stuck with what I've got - garage is boarded so cables all hidden. I over complicated it and just trying to find a reasonable middle ground now I will probably pay electrician to disconnect one of the switches to step in the right direction (2 manual switches & PIR), but fundamentally I get 90% of what i want to achieve with an automatic switch replacing the one inside the hallway! Just one that turns itself off after 10mins....

Yes, that would be the worst case scenario.... but having paid to have the PIR put in & it being useful when you drive into the garage I would rather try and find a way of replacing the 'dumb' switch with a smart one. The concept is: PIR is for when you drive into the garage at night & the lights come on automatically for you, you then walk into the house & lights turn themselves off [saves people forgetting to turn the lights off as they walk into the house] Or for when you walk into the garage from the house (PIR turns lights on), get in the car & drive off....the lights turn off automatically as it detected you when it came in. [saves people forgetting to turn lights off as they drive off] The switch it for manually over riding it should I be working under the car or equiv! What I didn't account for is the PIR doesnt detect you until you have walked a metre or two into the garage, which means we end up hitting the switch as we walk from the hallway into the garage to avoid falling down the step. Hence seeing if there is an auto switch (ie hit it once & it turns itself off after ?mins) that could replace the attached image switch?

Ufh is great for drying the room out after a shower, otherwise through the winter you can find the floor is permanently damp!

Why would you not want a service for a couple of years out of curiosity? Just time their installation for the move in date, and lay the Ducting for them to use now (ie grey Bt Ducting and a draw cord).

That sounds like a similar need to mine, have you got any you could link me to please?

I have over complicated the garage lights, and now need to simplify. Our electrician has proven himself somewhat of a ''character'' so I am trying to limit our active use of him. The garage lights are controlled via three standard light switches & a PIR. Idea being, the PIR is the main controller for the lights, but there are over ride switches. 2 inside the garage & one in the corridor leading to it. It sort of works, but gets very confusing as to whether a light is on due to PIR (& its timer) or one of the switches....and whether you need to turn it off again, or whether it will turn itself off. Before I ask the electrician to strip it back out again...what would work is if I could replace each of the light switches with an equiv one but that is on a timer itself..... so whatever has turned the light on...we know it will turn itself off again. I found the below off Amazon which looks like it would work, but the switches are all double wired into each other (ie 2 x black and 2 x grey into the back of them), and this one only accepts a single wire. 6A Illuminated Timer Switch Rundown time lag Energy Saving, 12sec-12min Adjustable 2 Wire : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools Can anyone recommend an equiv switch to the above, but that can take multiple wires in/out to link it to the other switches? Thanks!

Thanks for updating us! Great news, always nice when you recover a difficult situation.

Ours has been fine, but our Humidity is set to 72% now, with boost 50% so it isn't so loud even when it does come on. My sleep is in a delicate place with project issues as is, so I've more or less parked this for now at a higher Humidity then I've liked as a temp solution until I can clear the next couple of weeks. I'll then have another go at playing with it to figure out what's going on. The annoying thing for us was everyone baths showers at 5-7ish, by bedtime Humidity has been cleared and reset to default mode..... Then 2 or 3am it's suddenly decided to full boost, with no obvious triggers. It was in muggy/warm days, so I can only think it's some form of night purge.. I just don't see any setting which controls it.

Yep... Me too. And boy have I lost sleep over the last couple years of our build. It's hard enough when your worrying about the finances, before you 'check up' on the build on the way home from work, mid January, and see the brickies have left small gaps between the insulation slabs along the entire length of wall.... To then end up spending 2 hours adjusting all the insulation for tight fit, in smart office wear freezing to death and late for dinner!!! My wife didn't see what all the fuss was about.

No difference at all, and be warned.... if you're that intent on details and micro worrying you will put yourself into an early grave!!

Yeah, full DPM and there is a 1.5m Canopy above it, also tiled upstands will go below the tiles. Just the colour of the tiles!

Tiler didn't listen to builder about sealing tiles before laying them, tiler figured he'd remove grout afterwards. We now have a large slate wall with extensive dried mortar. Tiler has already spent a day with a pressure washer and diluted brick acid, and it's not looking any better in my eyes. Any thoughts on what I could suggest to him??

Thanks blooda, yeah...whikst bleary eyed a couple times in the middle of the night, I am sure it said c3.

It's difficult to tell....as we have a lot of big sliders which we like to keep open. It only seems to occur middle of the night & always with a ' c3 ' displayed in bottom right hand corner which doesn't appear on any of the other boost modes.....