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bissoejosh

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Everything posted by bissoejosh

  1. bissoejosh
    Interesting. Another idea I've just had would be to tee into the supply/extracts just before they go into the distribution boxes as they are likely to be a much larger bore at this stage - possibly even the same with careful planning? That would be a simple enough join and keeps the distribution box for the smaller bore semi rigid duct.
  2. bissoejosh
    It would certainly be easier if using concealed runs to just double up for the large room. Unfortunately as we are having exposed ducting in this space it isn't possible so I need to find a way to join a 75/68mm distribution box to a 150mm duct without somehow upsetting the flow rates or causing noise. Not really sure that is possible unless I could take 2 outlets from the distribution box and branch them into the 150mm. More research required I think.
  3. bissoejosh
    Apologies if this is a silly question but I can't find anything regarding the use of differing duct sizes on the site. The majority of rooms in our house require a single run of concealed 75mm semi rigid duct to satisfy building reg extract rates whilst keeping velocity low enough to minimise noise - at least in theory. Our kitchen/lounge/diner is larger and has a vaulted ceiling with a volume of 214m3 which is considerably more than anywhere else in the build. My calculations show the room needing 150mm diameter (or similar) ducts. This isn't an issue as we plan to use exposed galvanised in this space however I'm a little unsure if it is OK to mix duct sizes on a system or will it cause problems? Flow velocity at the outlets can be balanced in theory to within 1/2ms of other but the smaller rooms have an ACH of 2-3 whereas the largest room is 0.4. Is having such a varying range for this also an issue? Many thanks
  4. bissoejosh
    Superb, that has saved me several hours! Many thanks
  5. bissoejosh
    Almost finished my first fix wiring and need to throw in the cat6. There are several instances where it would be handy to deviate from the traditional cabling safe zones but I'm struggling to find a definitive answer on whether this is allowed for network cable? Where possible I'll stick the the usual rules but if I can bend them for a few cables it would make life a bit easier! Anyone done similar?
  6. bissoejosh
    Aren't these only needed with an external blockwork skin? As mentioned you don't want to close the timber frame cavity else the ventilation is gone.
  7. bissoejosh
    Sorry I can't help but I would be very keen to hear your overall cost per m3 if and when you can work it out. I wanted Cellulose but could only find authorised warmcell installers with a price much higher than I could afford so it sounds like you are on the right track splitting the process.
  8. bissoejosh
    Superb, much appreciated
  9. bissoejosh
    400mm
  10. bissoejosh
    Sorry to hijack an old thread but the quote above seems pretty relevant... If tiling on glued 22mm P5 do I need to ply first and if so what thickness would you recommend? Planning on a former tray for the shower so just working out heights etc. Thanks!
  11. bissoejosh
    Two options; 300mm could be a glulam. Alternatively as mentioned split the sole plate, we have 2 x 45x95mm plates with insulation between. Gives a decent amount of timber to fit to the blockwork below and our sole plates were all pre notched showing stud locations.
  12. bissoejosh
    Very neat - Nudura is definitely on the list for potential suppliers.
  13. bissoejosh
    What forms the window opening within the ICF - timber? Presumably the concrete core is airtight enough by itself to not need any wall membranes then? It sounds ideal but as you mention I guess it depends on the chosen system.
  14. bissoejosh
    We've done a timber frame with no brick skin for part of our build and clad it with Larch, no issues and we simply provided a deep ventilated cavity to keep the water well away from the frame.
  15. bissoejosh
    Following an afternoon of taping the VCL / airtight layer on my timber frame self build I'm thinking about things I'd do differently if we get permission on our second potential plot. The main change I had considered would be using ICF instead of timber frame but I'm curious to know what the strategy on an ICF build is in terms of airtightness. I'd be keen to avoid any membranes possible as this build has annoyed me in that respect and all the membranes and tapes really add up cost wise. I know there are alternative ways of doing a timber frame but generally speaking I imagine there are more membranes in this type of construction than ICF - please correct me If I'm wrong. Particularly interested in how internal services are run and the link between floor / wall / roof for the airtight layer in an ICF build (assuming it is done internally?). Many thanks
  16. bissoejosh
    Our lower ground floor was the same as @PeterW @joe90. One of the simplest elements of the build and cheap with 300mm of EPS beneath. Our beam and block section is much more complicated in comparison and we've had to switch to Kooltherm 103 £££ to get a similar result for half the thickness.
  17. bissoejosh
    Did you hear back from your BCO regarding the ply roof? Apologies if I missed the post.
  18. bissoejosh
    You could do worse than speak to Cullen timber design. They designed our frame which was then CNC cut and delivered to site with assembly instructions. Alternatively they can just do the design and structural calculations then give you a cutting list and assembly layouts. Good guys to work with.
  19. bissoejosh
    I haven't' got anything to add in terms of detailing but would just say it is very DIY'able with careful planning. I did 130m2 on our roof and a smaller lean -to section with no real dramas. I used cladco as they were local to me, no issues and helpful on the phone. The roof has cost so much less than any other option and I approached the job knowing if I made a mistake a whole sheet (4.3m long) was only £37 approx worst case so not disastrous. I also had custom flashings made with 100mm on the cladding edge to help make them less obvious. I'd be tempted to go smaller again if I started fresh. Velux also very helpful on the phone. I used @Crofter blog for inspiration in lifting / sliding the sheets onto the roof with a rope and rail system, made doing it shorthanded manageable.
  20. bissoejosh
    No idea at this time. I'm hoping to seek out an eBay / Gumtree cheapie but depends what pops up!
  21. bissoejosh
    Certainly sounds like it's worth holding off until I have a heat pump sourced and know exactly what I need - also gives me some extra homework time. I'll fit the pipes, keep the manifold safe and get the floor down I think. I believe I'll need a buffer tank also so will likely end up with a similar set up to yours.
  22. bissoejosh
    About ready to lay my screed. Worked out heating requirements and pipe spacing. Pipe and 6 point manifold ordered from Wunda - 3 loops in the same room, very similar lengths being run as one zone so nice and simple (hopefully!). When I spoke to Wunda prior to ordering they mentioned not ordering one of their complete kits as the pump / mixer arrangement isn't ideal for a heat pump. The bloke did try to explain but to be honest I didn't fully understand and at this point really just want to get the floor down. Is there anything else I need to consider at this stage or can I figure the rest out as and when a heat pump is purchased? Does anyone have a quick explanation for an UFH luddite about the mixer /pump issue? I've searched site and previously found reference to something similar but can't find again annoyingly.. System is likely to be heat pump serving UFH and DHW with UVC. Many thanks
  23. bissoejosh
    Good to hear.
  24. bissoejosh
    Interesting thread. Are they are maximum distances that one should adhere to when siting ASHP / UVC or is this not an issue in reality? At the moment my ASHP will be around 8-10m away from the cylinder.
  25. bissoejosh
    Assuming a non structural 85mm sand and cement screed how do I determine if I need reinforcement mesh/fibres or nothing at all? Buildup: Beam and Block Sand blind / EPS DPM 150mm Kooltherm K3 Seperation Layer 85mm Screed with UFH Many thanks
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