bissoejosh

Just a building control inspection - actually I'm not sure they even wanted to see it but I have a lot of photo evidence. It's all a bit pointless if you ask me as the floor is suspended with air flow beneath so any radon build up will ventilate itself away.

We had beam and block + radon membrane. I did the beam and block first and slurry grouted. Then I built the walls (timber frame) and for this laid a strip of radon membrane + DPC under the sole plate which projected around 30cm into the house. Once the roof was on and I was ready to do the floor I laid the rest of the radon membrane and taped it to this strip - easy as I had already do the fiddly corners etc. Insulation, UFH and screed then followed quickly.

Gerband 586 is great.

Keeping all the timber warm with external insulation. Minimises condensation risk I guess and gives a huge service void. Fixing a suitable amount of external insulation might be tricky though. http://mattrisinger.com/joe-lstibureks-perfect-wall-concept-the-500-year-house/

8KW Vaillant here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323971794501?ul_noapp=true

Currently have a 300 litre UVC ready for a heat pump to handle hot water + heating at a later stage but in the meantime like several others on the forum I would like to add a Willis heater between the manifold flow/return to run our UFH system. System is 3 x 100m loops all to be run as one zone in a 100mm screed. Wunda manifold is installed minus a pump at this stage. Wiring wise 3 core + earth from the stat is in place and power can be added from the plant room board easily. I would like to finalise and order the necessary components so if someone could advise if I've missed anything it would be greatly appreciated... Wilo manifold Pump from Wunda + Isolators Digital room thermostat (recommendations?) Willis jacket + immersion Timing Switch to ensure E7 use Electricians will fit all wiring and controllers but I supply everything. Possibly a 2 port valve as per @Nickfromwales recommendation in this thread but not sure if this is necessary? Trying to keep it as simple as possible at this stage.

I wanted to use the insulated beam and block but the cost simply didn't stack up. In the end I laid normal 7n blocks and got 150mm of Kingspan K103 from seconds and co for £24 a sheet. The stuff turned up brand new, still shrink wrapped with a few damaged corners on several sheets - bargain really.

For us the lower membrane below the insulation was our radon barrier (Cornwall) so much thicker. The slip membrane on top of insulation was a very thin DPM, pierced a lot of times for the UFH but no issues whatsoever. This was just taped up the walls whereas the lower radon membrane was fully lapped and taped to the DPC as @nod mentioned. Worth also thinking about how your might link your wall airtightness layer (not sure of construction) to the floor? Our wall membrane is lapped and taped to the lower radon membrane to ensuite continuity in the airtight layer.

Nice work, we opted for steel but strongly considered the marley roof based on the shed at tokavaig. http://maryarnold-forster.co.uk/the-shed-tokavaig/

Just stop.

I haven't seen / heard this? Might be worth investigating if so - thanks.

http://www.michl-waermepumpen.de/index.php/shop/heizungs-waermepumpen/inverter-luft-wasser-waermepumpen-br-typ-split/michl-inverter-luft-wasser-waermepumpe-split-8-kw-a-detail Mainland Europe?

I really like the all electric idea but I'm concerned as we don't have PV how much it will hinder our SAP to the point we may struggle to pass regs due to the unfair penalty on electric solutions. I need to dig the software out again and re run. Did you have any issues with this @TerryE?

Forgot to add I got a price on a new Daikin 5KW with all the controllers etc £2287 + VAT if that helps anyone (not sure if that included delivery). 7KW was £2574 + VAT. To add I just asked the supplier for a discount based on a 3-5 unit group order. Another 2% off list price so £2230 for the 5KW.

Not really, I'm also looking to buy at the moment. @Barney12 I messaged coolenergy re the inverter driven models... "The ‘pro range’ are not inverter models no. But we do have inverter models available CE-iH6-18 and CE-iH10-25." https://coolenergyshop.com/products/cool-energy-inverter-6-18-7kw-stainless-heat-pump-ce-ih6-18

Our ensuite has a wet room former and setcrete latex self levelling elsewhere over UFH. I've tanked the former and surrounding area as per @Nickfromwales excellent tanking thread and I'm now waiting for it to dry. Question is should I use primer on the tanked area and the latex before tiling and if so any particular one? I've quite a lot of the setcrete acrylic primer left https://www.setcrete.co.uk/product/acrylic-primer/ if its any use? SBR? Thanks

The cladco stuff is great. Really pleased with ours. 100% go for the DIY route. What have they been using to cut it - are those scratches from the underside of a jig saw bouncing along the ridges?

I tried for one of these but sadly it was too early in the build really and like you say they've now disappeared. Was that from eBay or through a distributor?

Building control?

Starting to look at air to water heat pump options but I don't want RHI and ideally I'd like to self install. Has anyone bought a new product direct and could recommend a supplier? I'm in Cornwall if it helps. I'm also doing the usual eBay browsing. Many thanks

We're looking at the 6w downlights mentioned as they look fantastic in your build.. Did you opt for the warm or pure white version?

My partner has requested a specific tile for the ensuite but I'm looking at multi panel for our main bathroom so will certainly check out Jewson's pricing as it does seem to vary a lot for the panels.

I previously posted about using a wet room former in our ensuite but have since remembered that my 22mm egger is well and truly glued down to the joists and removal will be a stretch too far. In light of this I'm planning a 1600x800/900mm tray and hope the floor levels with tiling etc result in a fairly flush finish into the tray. Room is 1700mm x 3600mm and 100mm will be boxed out at one end to contain shower valve etc much like @Crofter design. I've read various threads about what to use under tiles and just want to check I've not missed anything before ordering materials in... Floor build up: 22mm P5 glued and screwed on 400mm cc posi joist. 6mm ply (and under tray?) glued and screwed at 150mm cc's Electric UFH mat (eBay) covered with self levelling (latex?) Tiles Walls: Shower area will be water resistant PB or cement board (brand?) ? both to be tanked fully as per @Nickfromwales excellent thread. Then fully tiled. Rest of walls to be water resistant PB and skim finish. In theory a fully tanked shower area will be fine with the water resistant PB but many seem to use cement board so I need to make a decision here. I can see the logic in cement board but if it's getting wet something else has gone wrong?! Have I missed anything important? Many thanks

That makes sense, I need to take a look in the treatment plant and see . I still need to drop the 32mm into 110mm for the drainage field though and this could double as an inspection point if needed. That is unless a fitting that converts 32mm MDPE to 110mm exists which I doubt.

I'm now at this stage but I have a 32mm MDPE feed to the sampling chamber as we have a pumped outlet. My thinking is just drill a hole in a normal inspection chamber sidewall to locate the MDPE and provide a easy to access sample point then use normal T connectors to branch the 110mm pipe out across the distribution field. Can anyone see an issue with this?