Carrerahill

Again, this mention of panels! Do you, @dpmiller and @Onoff know what an LED panel is? This is a panel...

LED panels! It ain't an office!

The first issue you experienced is one of the biggest problems with working on RCD protected circuits that are only off at the MCB. For this reason individual RCBO's are good but certainly more expensive way of doing things. The only way to avoid this is to disconnect the neutral too or simply switch off the RCD too but that might not suit. Which is why next week when my new 20 something way Wylex hi-integrity board goes in there will be some non-RCD protected submains, some RCBO circuits (fridge freezers) and a good split between the two RCD's on the split way. The second issue, well, it could be a few things. Does the surge protector still work OK? Assuming the circuit sits OK without the surge protector and USB adaptors then I would suggest it is safe to assume, however, assumption is never good when it comes to electrics - investigate until you know for sure.

I would use something like this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895075&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=AAJB60&product_partition_id=351476229327&campaign=shopping_accessories&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjw8J32BRBCEiwApQEKgTIGSLdYjkmKXYLyip3tP_5YIhEwGaKbUjzy6NpqSTz6nxnVC1_GuBoCz80QAvD_BwE You can cleanly terminate the 10mm into that and then your 3 No. 2.5mm (probably doubled over to increase size).

I assume you will have some timber on site you can use, maybe even plenty spares of off-cuts that can be made into treads? As for laying out the stair it is not bad, the simplest way to do it is to lay the stringer material on-site exactly how you want it to sit, go for a nice pitch that is safe and easy, put it in place, then use a block to mark the floor cut, cut that then put it back in position and mark the top cut, that is now your template for the other stringer. Measure FFL to FFL and divide it by about 175 to get you going, round that up to the next full number and that will be your no. of treads minus the last one which is technically the next floor, divide your FFL to FFL by that no. you came up with and make sure it is within 150-220mm for a decent stair. Subtract from your rise height the thickness of your material, so say 45-50mm, you can then measure up that distance parallel to your floor and mark it, that is where your first block sits, then measure off that line for the rest, remember that your measurement should be from top of tread to top of tread so always remember your material thickness. The other way to do it is to use a steel square with inch markings on it, you can work out your pitch ratio, then use your square sitting at the pitch ratio on the timber to mark your tread positions super quickly. This legendary man explains it clearly:

That's the boys! You can then walk, carefully, down them normally rather than going down backwards too.

Are you taking many materials up these?

Depending on what your situation is, what about a couple of 2x8's as stringers, and some 2x6/2x8 treads, gives you a cheap "stair" that will be safer and easier to use than a ladder. I've done quite a few semi-permanent stairs this way, only takes an hour or so to knock together if you just use blocks to support treads. Also means when you are done you can unscrew it all and have 2 pieces of 2x8 and pieces of 2x6 that can no doubt be used as noggins or something. Think the last set I built, which are still in use were actually 2x6 stringers and 2x8 treads.

Lean on it harder, if not loaded they don't always hammer. The mechanism needs to be "returned" so that it can hammer again, so no opposing force then no hammer action. The mechanisms are packed with grease so when nice and new and tight they can be a little reluctant. I have removed the factory grease before now and repacked with a high quality grease with a little EP90/120 oil in with it, works a treat.

This is how it works, our handrail to the back won't be compliant, I have perspex sheets that can bolt on temporarily to make it look like it will be.

Tip - use something with a narrow top to it, anything bigger becomes a dust catcher - we have clean house yet the first floor skirting constantly seems to look filthy - combo of carpet fibre and normal dust. If you dry clean it it still looks a bit dirty, if you damp clean it you end up with streaks of dust spread along the wall! After that fiasco we started using the more traditional styles - Georgian or Victorian.

If it is for max litres per minute then can you not fit a pressure reducing valve...

I've just done some Googling, looks like you have "Part G" and need to limit water use per person per day - I can only assume that as some regions in England have water shortages this was introduced to try and help the issues.

BC care about taps? Huh? What is this about? Compliance with what? Only spec in Scotland is thermostatic valve so you cannot scald yourself.

It is not the end of the world but it is not right, it also depends on several factors. With a roof the rain runs down the slate, then a gust of wind can drive that water back up under the higher slates, when you have a big gap and a lot of water then there is the chance in foul weather that some water will be pushed up far enough that it can run off the top of the slate and onto the membrane, which, from time to time is going to happen to some extent even on the best of roofs which is partly why the membrane is there. The next question is what headlap did he use, that is to say how much of the lower slate is covered by the upper slate - the more the headlap the more difficult it is for water to be driven back up. If a healthy headlap and good membrane and everything else is done well then it may never be an issue. You could ask him to come and unclip a few slates, and try and get the low bit on the lower ones to sit up and remove the gap where the higher one covers it, if that makes sense. 9/10 when you get a rain storm which side of your house does it hit hardest - if this is the worst hit side you really want it right I guess.

My wife has chosen a tap she likes, it is by a company called Schon, it seems to be a Victoria Plum own brand and I think are Indian made, it claims to be high quality and its got the WRAS approval but I am worried. I have found an almost identical tap by Sauber - at least I have heard of Sauber but I am not even sure who they are. Does anyone know much about these two? Who are the names in taps? I know Pegler & Franke.

Swimming pool?

What the heck is that?

That explains, he has retained the old tile flashing and he ought to know fine well that it would not be correct for slate. I also disagree he could not get the flashing kit, I bet if you call Velux now they could find you a slate flashing kit for that older window. As for the gaps, they are not good, it could be to do with the old roof timber being a bit undulating and slate does show up this far more than tile because you can have a slight variance on the interlock of a tile but on slate it really needs to be dead level. Out of a matter of interest why did you go for slate when it was tile before?

I don't think so, we ordered an off the shelf product, if that was the case then I'd have hoped he would have explained this rather than just appearing difficult. I can buy from eBay Osmo or Fiddes tins as small as 250ml, tempted to get what I think it is and have a go, that way I am only spending £15 rather than potentially £100 or so on the wrong oil.

Does look a bit high overall doesn't it...

We have a 22mm engineered hardwax oil oak flooring product on the ground floor, it was put in about 3 years ago and is now needs some isolated light repairs where grit or furniture has left little marks. The flooring has a saw finish which was originally chosen to limit the visibility of marks and I think that has worked well. I emailed the manufacturer to ask for help and advice on how to restore these bits, I was told to buy their cleaning are kit (I already use that) so I went on to ask which finish was on the floor, I know it is not gloss but I am unsure if it is satin, satin matt, matt, semi-matt. They email me back and suggest I speak to my supplier, they are closed due to Corona, why the hell won't he just say what I need. They even sell the damn stuff on their site so this behaviour is verging on simply being difficult for the sake of being difficult. Anyone good with hardwax oil finishes and floor repairs?

The slight slope at the dry fix bonding gutter (thing that sits between you and neighbours roof) is about right I'd say although it does look a bit pronounced at the bottom. The issue here is you have a very thin flat slate and it needs to sit up a little so that it can ride over the channels on the bonding gutter so you do get a visible rise. Some roofers re-sheet the roof short, then use thinner ply/osb so that the bonding gutter sits a little lower. As for the flashing kit round the velux, I'd say it is the wrong kit, you get a slate flashing kit and a tile flashing kit for them and it looks like a tile kit which is more bulky. Either that or they just made a mess of it. Apart from those two bits it does look like a nice roof.

10mm! I'd be annoyed at 2.5mm!

I'd look into this, I don't think next door have any right to do anything on or with your front garden other than a right of way, in which case as long as you leave them access you can do what you want. I'd check all the details but I'd not have thought it was a "shared space". That said can you not just redo your garden and leave your neighbours with the ability to use your path?