Carrerahill

I see. Electric mixer shower! Jeeze, we are getting fancy now! Remember we used to turn the hot and cold on a bit until it was about right! However, if he suffers these issues, and it is now commonplace and the regs (18th AM2) basically require that surge protection is installed in consumer units, I think I would install it.

When you say your shower, do you mean and electric shower or do you mean a pump? What rating is it? You could just fit a whole house surge device if you suffer powercuts and surges. Depends on your setup you can put it in your board if space, or a little dual enclosure adjacent to the main board and wired into the consumer unit.

I watched some videos today at lunch, looks like I will go for a Mira Flight tray, they seem to be bomb-proof according to skill builder. I just don't like the idea of a hidden waste connection that you fit and can't check.

One thing I have never done is a shower tray or wet-room floor. I have done bathrooms with baths, but not these, so I would like some help and guidance on how to go about a new shower. For me, a key requirement is near bomb-proof water tightness/proofing on the shower. The bathroom is on the first floor so it is timber joists - my plan is to remove the whole floor, wire and plumb as required and replace the deck with 18mm ply. At this stage I assume I will have incorporated the floor level waste for the tray - do I just hook up a shower waste to the pipe in the right position, are they flexible - or do I need to get them sitting absolutely bang on before I offer up the tray? How do I then seal that to the shower tray? Is it just like a sink waste except installed into the tray from above? Or, do I put in one of these tanking kits, floor waste and tile it? All thoughts, information and any photographs of these going in would be greatly appreciated.

If you can smell combustion smells in those houses, you must immediately let them know they have a problem. Then the owners need to immediately cease use of the stove investigate or seek professional help. If you can smell a stove or open fire combustion smells in the room, be it coal, wood, oil or gas, you have an issue. The stove box should be negative air pressure, it should be drawing in air, not allowing gasses to escape! Myself and someone else on this forum have done experiments and taken readings with our stoves on, the other BH member thought his meter was broken and lit a match adjacent to it to get a reading and I found that we had more pollution in the room when my wife lit 3 tealights! So these statements are highly inaccurate - much like saying "Gas boilers are poisoning occupants of the house" - they do in a round about away, but not in as much as your being choked with combustions gasses, unless, of course there is an issue. Visible smoke is a big part of the issue because many people produce clouds of the stuff through incorrect operation of the stove and usually by burning green wood or other unsuitable fuels The smoke is heavy, it can linger for hours on a cold day, it is full of combustion smells that can taint clothing and soft furnishings and inhaling that will immediately irritate the throat, lungs etc. and will irritate the eyes if exposed to enough of it - think standing next to a bonfire when the wind changes! The heavy smoke is loaded with loads of particulate, unburnt gasses and other nasties, full high temperature combustion will reduce those. The PM 2.5 particulate exists from many sources, cars, lorries, planes or stoves. It is there. The figures used for stove emissions are highly inaccurate, they use all stoves sold x burning hours per day. Every one of them. The figures are badly skewed. Our neighbours have one, it's never lit, my friend has about 4, he doesn't use them much - I know of about 72 holiday lodges each with 1, hardly anyone holidays there in the winter so they are never really on. Gas boilers produce pm 2.5 too around 50% more than the average car per annum, they emit around 1/5 of NOx emissions, they also emit other nasties like VOC's, SO2, N2O - or your could burn a locally sourced firewood, seasoned and burned in a well maintained stove which will have fewer emissions than a gas boiler, in managed firewood the CO2 will also be near totally cyclic therefore you could claim near zero CO2 emitted, v's the equivalent of 7 transatlantic flights a gas boiler will produce in a year.

For a friend of a friend, £60K - so he is off gird, he spent a chunk on PV, batteries, and a genset to boost batteries in the winter.

I am fed up with these terribly written articles in the papers and media every other day giving wood burning stoves (WBS) a bad name. I have written to many of the broadsheets "environmental editors" when they run inaccurate articles pointing out the mistakes. The one I love to debate is the often reported, yet highly inaccurate statements about the WBS smoke coming into the room in which it operates. I collect, pre-season, split, stack and season all my own firewood; softwoods and hardwoods. I reckon I am on about a 36month seasoning process with the firewood I have just now. I use pine kindling and some smaller softwood logs and a piece of hardwood or two to get the stove lit, I manage the start up in that I keep a close eye on it, lots of air, get the fire caught well, you want to get the flue warmed and get a nice draw, at this stage. Usually seen when outside getting an armful of logs, there is a gentle whisp of smoke from the chimney. Once the fire is going well, I close down the air supplies to normal running mode and let it go. I was outside most of yesterday with the stove on inside, I saw no smoke all day. The issue is idiots with stoves.

But only if he had a permanent live up there too. If he had permanent live and switched live he could trigger the light in toggle mode on the shelly and also control via app/schedule.

https://ledsc4.com/en/collection/play-0 LEDS C4 Play - all accessible from below. Proper LED engine version available.

Your roof may not be rated for the weight of tile - speak to your design team first. Probably will be fine but roof could have been sized and calc'ed on the lighter option.

Assume that is for contestable and non-contestable. Who owns the footpath? Scope to save anywhere?

There are not really that many extra wires when you break it down, just wired differently, they are behind the light switches.

Yes. I have 2 way switching, however, I just use input terminals on a Shelly 1 on one side. Switches behave as they should but I can also override and set schedules via the app.

Yes they do. However, there are some brands which are plaster in, but still have a retaining ring which permits removal of the LED engine & driver from beneath. I'll find out who they were as I spec'ed them on a hotel project last year.

First I would be asking, is the roof structure going to take the dead and live loads you presumably intend on imposing on it?

They are talking nonsense. I have a wire that passed over the corner of my property, neighbour cut it down by accident (I think). OR came out to repair it, nice chap, asked for access, I said fine no problem, I then said, by the way, hypothetically, what would happen if I denied you access and said I didn't want the cable over my property anymore, he said, we would just need to arrange to put in a pole in their garden and bring it over the back. Saying they do not need your permission is utterly untrue and they know that. I think I would go into the field and push the pole over, if I was being kind I would ensure the cable could detach from it as it fell as to maintain a service to your neighbour. Once the pole was over, and the line was dangling across your land, then call OR. Explain the pole was hit (leave pole for inspection to prove not OR asset. When they start to discuss replacement just say no - you have future plans. Option 2 is to inform them you will not be levying a charge on rental of the pole of £1000 a month. Option 3 is to inform them they have 21 days to remove the cable from your pole, as it is being relocated as part of works on your site (give no further details of any replacement poles or positions) - inform them that any delays to works will result in charges being levied on a monthly basis at £10,000. You could have a lot of fun here too. If you played them at their own sort of game. I would be tempted to type up a really official looking letter, Ref: Asset upgrade and replacement - that sort of thing, inform them you, the asset owner must undertake unplanned maintenance to other systems and this pole is being decommissioned on H&S grounds after a structural survey.

I can confirm this works!

We framed ours out, faced that in 11mm OSB, then 12.5mm plasterboard, that silenced it very well. I appreciate you will then have a ceiling below all of that, so it will further deaden the sound.

They have got wider but the difference for me was 30mm, but about 290mm taller, so same rail requirement. I agree it all depends, but I would really question these panels until I was satisfied they were the best choice.

I would question the use of those panels. 22 x 365W panels - that is a pretty low energy density these days. When I first looking at PV 350W or thereabouts was about the norm, then when I came to buy it was about 400W now I am looking at some 500W panels. If it was me I would want fewer panels, a slightly higher buying price but reduced installation time, less brackets & rails, and less panels on my roof.

No. You could use DC coupled PV/batteries with DC charge controller, which also feed an inverter with mains AC backup - AC backup only kicks into run loads or replenish batteries (if you so desire) if PV output has been poor, no way to export the generated PV in this setup (although methods do exist). This is the initial system I will use to take my first floor of my house totally "off grid" with the security of a grid backup. The plan being to ditch DNO connection entirely once I am self sustaining with a suitable backup supply (probably a natural gas generator - maybe diesel initially).

Without seeing and knowing the whole picture/story I cannot be certain, but usually you would attach a ledger board/plate to the existing building. This is usually fixed with resin anchors - your SE drawings will give fixing details I would have thought? You usually remove the render, if any, back to brick so you can get a good fixing into the centres of bricks. I used M16 resin fixings on 600mm centres.

I wrapped my sistered 2x8's with spare breathable building wrap and foil tape. I had experience with a whistle/drone noise when a draught was passing through the gap in a structure before so wanted to address it early on.

Oh I missed the bit about them being OK. Yes, sounds like something popped. I'd be tempted to get one of those cheap mini-cams or USB cams and shove it down the vent on something to do an inspection.

What size are the ducts - how long the troublesome ones? Could just be a pressure drop due to too long/insufficient sized ducts.