JohnMo

Gas meter is being removed 10th July, So will be gas free after that date.

Now painted, solar panels should be going on tonight as long as it's not too windy. Roof slats removed for paint, but need more paint to allow them to be finished Costs to date, including extra paint Wood £310 delivered Brackets and screws £130 PV panels £138 PV fixings £27 Inverter, isolators (AC & DC) MC4 connectors, stickers £320. Cable £34 New garage consumer unit and suitable MCBs £39 Paint £140 So well under £1200 for a pergola and 1kWp solar PV.

Really - tell that to nearly every house in Scotland built over the last 40 years. We are taped joints, no issues. Finish is good as the person that does it. Unlike England plasterboarding is a joiners scope in Scotland, so none of you dob and dab malarkey. Tapers are another trade and that is pretty much all they do. Some of our walls are 6m tall, the majority oven 2.4m so plenty of joints. We had a good guy doing ours. He was really specific to what materials needed to ordered and would not accept anything else.

Just looked at the photo of our roof our rafters go above the ridge beam. No hangers were needed.

Any open fence then, but do concrete posts. Style to suit property. Simple Google search https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-oneplus-terr2-rso3&sca_esv=0e58669465c64ea2&sxsrf=AE3TifPV-RLgv81091Z_Y7H7N1XX0M3kpw:1750922915027&udm=2&fbs=AIIjpHy-RSR864DhUKjzNUCRuMvmCpeQgzWX7QKgy21N_09xyq4vQNBX2doAJrpZQFoYripdRoPi-7eEaeB_HN9R1Ijc7_55dwLSq8I9sGPmp2gDyyi3EfVt4bWEZKuAcCDS4P7YVCZYZWPVdGREt4tv3OTFLDHQJiAmJKTZKCufL_catcuFNa7SAwttsnFvk16z5G0XFJYPQVyS_wPhay6uKiOkEYSp94eq05Syg3cDPDGi7igWqjD5nXqbUMiRcRGFBGU3dAeJ&q=open+fence+panels&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiHkYSTyI6OAxWxWEEAHZBgFIUQtKgLegQIEhAB&biw=360&bih=664&dpr=4

A block work wall all to stop water flowing into your garden in the first place?

We did our retainer wall with timber strainer posts. About 8" dia. Highest point is about 2m, but post buried a metre or so deep in concrete. That's about a narrow as you will get!

Why are you looking to buy the house, obviously it doesn't meet your requirements? As soon as you get in, you want to pull it apart and add more extensions. From the rear view at least two add-ons have been done. So would assume all permitted development rights are exhausted? So what happens if you don't get permission to extend again?

You run water temperature above dew point, so zero condensation issues. With a heat pump you run 24/7 at as low flow temp possible to keep house stable - weather compensation. Response time is not a factor. As UFH even in thick screed, responses to outside changes quicker than a well insulated house. Floor temp is so close to room target temp, that changes in room almost self modulate floor output. True.

Did you not consider just doing UFH (cooling) for the main parts of the house and/or a simple fan coil for the bedrooms. We get huge amounts of solar gain, which you shouldn't in a certified passivhaus. We were cooling at 10 degs outside if the sun was out in April mainly because the sun setting to west circumvents the roof overhangs. UFH (cooling) works well for us. Even if internal air temperature is high it feels way cooler and as soon as solar gain stops air temperature is pulled down to normal levels really quickly. Are you not spending many thousands of Euro needlessly? Isn't the point of passivhaus you don't need to really cool or heat? If you need to actively cool doesn't your energy consumption exceed the passivhaus requirements?

I would go to your local blind shops. See what they do. My step daughter has blinds which have a slider frame which attaches directly to the window frame. The blind slides in the frame. Zero light comes through with correct blind material. Plus you can open the window without the blind blowing about.

You may also want that with eps, to help eliminate any chance of concrete getting below the insulation and floating it, especially if using a concrete pump. If you paying to have soil removed and taken away from site, you may be more economical to use PIR as you are digging down 100mm less for the same U value. Plus you have less faff to do with waste pipe heights etc, without compromising insulation. So your next issue is to get that thermal bridge free. Which isn't difficult or expensive with a little thought. 3 areas to look at, external walls to ground, finished floor to ground and internal structural walls to ground.

I have an oak floor glued down to concrete, with UFH, it works well. Thing with laminate is, and any floating floor covering, you have the underlay, plus air pockets, which add to the tog rating. They also fight against you, especially so with a well insulated house, which has a low flow temperature. Hold your hand a couple of mm away from the kettle surface which has just boiled, it's warm to hot, touch the kettle you are likely to burn yourself. Air is a rubbish heat transfer medium. So you need to eliminated it in the surface build up for low temp UFH to work.

Delivery issues have made me cancel the order. So now will just add a 1kW string inverter. A Viridian 1kW inverter ordered from city plumbing. All in the 1kW system will be under £500.

Started the roof and added some more structural timber to roof. Ended up with a very short section of roof at end of the PV panels. But a plant will be located directly below so will be watered every time it's raining. Started painting but rain kept starting so have abandoned that for now.

Mine is in the shed outside. With all the filter stuff.

So most of the time house battery will be supplying during day. The only big users are battery charging at night for house and car, and during winter heat pump. House battery charger isn't going to pull anymore than about 6kW, 2kW for heat pump. 80A x 230v, is approx 18.5kW. That gives you nearly 10kW for car charging. 7 hrs at 10kW is 70kWh or around 280 miles per day. So reality is you stack charge several cars per night. Do you really need more than that? All this 3 phase for residential homes is utter nonsense.

Yep, got prices, took wife to see windows, 2 mins later we were in the car on the way home, the windows were cr@p - I got more prices. I took advice from several contractors, do your own leg work. Go around show rooms try opening and closing, look for gaps etc. if they can't do a good job for a showroom, you've no hope.

That's exactly how I have always done it generally use Dulux trade emulsion, and add 25% water, mix well and apply. That's the first coat and then full strength once dried. All our walls are done that way, mist coat and another coat, 4 years later still fine.

There is This my strip foundation structural drawings. We fine tuned it a little, for internal walls. Inverting the engineering brick on top of thermolite.

Can you add an attachment - not sure what you have added but it doesn't open. I found the gains weren't worth the cost. I used thermolite blocks, with engineered bricks on top to attach stud walls.

But you are running UFH, so a cop of 4 or more would be realistic, not 3. In the 80s the boiler would be definitely better running at 70+ degs and be pre condensing technology, so only about 60 to 80% efficiency. 1400 x 4 = 5600kWh heat your heat 8600 x 80% = 6880kWh heat BBC high 8600 x 60% = 5160kW heat bbc low So not really a lot different when you do maths.

Just asked for our gas to be removed. Asked last week and octopus will remove in two weeks. Zero cost. But only the meter removal. Pipe is a different story, but for us, that and the cabinet can stay for ever, as long as a service charge is gone.

Simple but good controls easy to adjust, but it's a derated larger unit, so depth of modulation is a little limited, which is a downside, but managed to get it to run as I want it to.

You have a very thick roof profile with minimum insulation. Have you looked an outer membrane that requires no ventilation air gaps, then use a deeper profile rafter, and full fill with 250-300mm of mineral wool? Then underdrawing with 25mm PIR or insulated plasterboard? Way more simple to construct and less reliance on the workers doing a good job of installing the PIR into all the gaps.