JohnMo

Think most will try to hit target temperature pretty fast and once at target ramp down. Vaillant have quite a few settings than manipulate how it runs.

For me I have done glycol, pumping losses were huge, then changed it out and did VDI 2035, but decided normal water with an appropriate corrosion inhibitotor was easy to fill, easy to maintain. So now use Adey MC1+.

This is something I never even considered. But doing it again would be cheap addition. I did 300mm centres, so only have a out 600m of pipe in 192m² of floor, on 7 loops. Could have easily done extra loops in the main spaces, even if they weren't used and kept as installed spares.

I doubt it unless the receipts are all post dated to after planning approval. Also is it shown on the landscape plans.

Do you have the control settings, set correctly? Leaving water, external thermostat and room thermostat looks for different things. If you have selected room thermostat and don't have the required interface, it's looking for a signal it will never get. Get the manual out or download and go through everything in the setup wizard, the only stopping it starting is a setting.

Just fill the studs with Frametherm 32, miss out the PIR between studs. Why not make all the studs the same depth? Add packets? Add a breather membrane outside, 25mm PIR inside (do you need it)...

Just shop around, go direct to mill, can be about half the price.

Run 15mm to central location and install a manifold. Then from there run a 15mm pipe to each wet room and branch the pipe there. At you furthest or most used wet room add a secondary return loop. The return pipe will go directly back to cylinder. The above will pre heat manifold and supply hot water to furthest or most use taps, while also allowing a shorter run to all other rooms. Above will easily supply a couple of showers.

Just fell over this thread from the past - how did you install work out for DHW. Is a simple PHE and pump which runs until DHW is satisfied?

It is very likely to slump as it's not rigid enough. Use acoustic mineral or glass wool instead. Or Frametherm or similar.

Have you tried all the providers - we have only Vodafone works, everything else is a big fat zero. Worth asking anyone that comes to house, what provider they with and what the phone signal is like. If you can get 4G 99% of the time its a great signal

But aren't all radiators forming a high points, unless radiators tails come down from the ceiling? Any changes in elevation upwards that then comes down again is an air trap, so needs a bleed point.

Our door hinge has to be cranked (bent) to adjust, using a tool that slips over the hinge. Suspect it's a tool that can be picked up for pennies on Amazon etc.

Yes - flow in at top flow at bottom. The imaged attached previously was a completely different set up. You are better to get a different manifold which includes a bottle trap in each manifold - something like this

The marked up drawing makes sense. There is no mixing valve in the normal sense. The manifold allows hot water from boiler to mix with return water and the proportion is determined by taking a reference temperature from the upper manifold. The lock shield valve on the upper manifold acts as a gagging point to ensure flow goes through the loops and not just all take the easy route to the boiler. You need the over temp protection as if the inlet temperature regulator fails you send boiler water temp to the floor. Allowing boiler flow to top manifold, doesn't give any mixing down of boiler flow temperature, so wouldn't work.

Just looked at build spec and it would appear nearly every house in Scotland is also of non standard construction. It's a timber frame kit, so really nothing non standard about it. So can be repaired using standard building materials. The only real difference is it's factory built, instead of site built. All pretty standard stuff for a Joiner to repair should there be a need. Their typical wall build is external Render Thermal insulation OSB or gypsum fibre board Timber studs/Thermal insulation OSB or gypsum fibre board Polyethylene vapour check Plasterboard Internal walls Stud wall

Only if the bleed valves are at any high points

Hot water tank? Is this a buffer or volumiser? I positioned in the return to heat pump. The way it works close the lower valve with circulation pump off. You then open the other valves, inject into one port and water ejected from the other. You add the correct amount of glycol and close the valves and open the bottom one again. Circulate system. But as mentioned, as would do everything I could to eliminate the use of antifreeze.

Most likely not a coincidence. With a missing radiator not sure how you rebalanced the system, depending on it's plumbed, suspect you have simply cut the flow to the radiator that doesn't work.

Corner tapes this is what our taper insisted on for our vaulted ceiling (nearly all of the rooms). Myself and grandson did the hall and it was great to use. https://www.belmoretools.co.uk/levelline-drywall-corner-tape-2-75-in-x-100-ft-roll.html

Underlay will kill UFH performance, it's normal not to float a floor on UFH, it's more normal to bond the floor down.

Metal reinforced tapes are good, nice true and straight corners, and difficult to damage.

Something like this may be the answer Amazon_HXIN.pdf

A thermostat connected to nothing is good for that. But if you go aircon but well. A very good one goes unnoticed others can be drafty and blow and bug the you. They can also make the air really dry, good ones will manage that. You can have both the ASHP just switched mode. Depends on installers take on things, some will be fine others not, depends on their experience really. Just don't speak Aircon while doing the grant stuff.

Only two off us, but we never shower at the same time almost 12 hrs apart generally so ample time to reheat if needed. I would look at water and energy conversation first. Waste water heat recovery for showers and aerated shower heads. Bring down hot water quantities needed. Big two cylinders gives more flexibility. Heating to a high temperature also gives more capacity. Do not do S or Y plan plumbing, do X or W and have priority hot water. This will allow boiler to run balls out for DHW and low and slow for central heating. Not even hotels have unlimited hot water. So be careful for what you actually ask for.