JohnMo

Our walls are Durisol (pre Ecobrix), we parge coated with a cement, lime, building sand. Mixed with water to a double cream consistency. Then applied with a broom. It fills all the holes in the block and all joints. Wall becomes airtight after. Should last for ever. If want any colour other than grey paint it after.

This system is all Class 2 certified, so could be used as a sales meter if you wanted, for both input and output energy - so very accurate. Would expected the energy output side the Vaillant (dT, flow and return temp, and flow rate) are all industrial quality so way less accurate, electrical input may be class 2 certified on the Vaillant. But if you can plot either system (enerymon or Vaillant) you will get like for like comparisons, so you can compare any changes you make, for real conclusions of, is this better or worse than before.

As if by shear coincidence, the exact thing you need, has been invented and in daily use and they only costs about 80p. Many would say that is too simple and they need complex, with sensors and timers and may be something like home assistant or Luxome to control it all. But many house holds have managed to use light switches, quite intuitively and your normal electrician can fix them or replace with ease. But are unlikely to go wrong in a life time. Sorry that is my input, maybe not what you need hear. But...

I have tried to that with mine and hit a few issues First issue, was actually predicting how much energy to add to house. When setup it over applied heat and it wasn't accurately predicting future heating needs. It actually upped the flow target temperature and generally used more energy than really needed. Example two similar temperature days one doing everything based on cheap rates, battery, PV etc, it used 14kWh through ASHP, the second day nly used 8.8kWh. The second day was very much simplified just run WC and let heat pump run as it wanted. Second you are dependant on the internet, something like home assistant to drag across your battery/solar and weather data. You may be able to sort it all out, but will anyone else if something isn't working as expected and you aren't there. Third, couldn't get Agile to make any financial sense (not enough cheap slots) and the added complexity just a pain. So went Cosy, super simple. If you are running thermostats, just add 0.2-0.5 degs to target temp in the 3x cheap slots, the heat pump should stay idle for hours after, especially if your heat pump can run a second higher flow temp set point during cheap slots.

Post a link to the instructions and what you are stuck on

Tell him he has 24 hrs to remove or you will report him for fly tipping.

They say eating meat is bad for you and the environment

Or just go AC coupled battery (with gateway), a normal string inverter for PV. You will need an earth spike. Then just operate in island mode. Once you have a grid connection take out of island mode. AC coupled will provide whole house with power. A hybrid inverter may only do a single circuit when no mains is connected.

Just had a look about and Rointe Onyx HHR Storage Heater don't look bad Stiebel Eltron SHS Storage Heaters - HHR but boxy but looks pretty clever. You should only need a couple, bedrooms would just be panel heaters anyway

If your weather is anything like ours you PV will be producing nothing. Just get your grid connection sorted.

Do you have two inverters or one and what make is it? You keep mentioning two different makes Is a string or hybrid inverter?

Didn't use anything really Use Excel spreadsheet to keep track of costs. Used Excel to build a plan, that was about it. What do mean everything legal is logged?

Or tee off the main pipe

Sorry with all that concrete in the floor I have no idea how the thermostat affects anything. You really are only opening and closing zones to keep some flow circulation through your 20+ loops at a sensible rate. Only 3x more than me.

We are at 192m² living space plus a large plant room of about 25m² so similar size wise, just bigger rooms as we are a 3 bed. We have 7 supply terminals, and 7 extracts. 2x extracts in kitchen seems over kill and 3 supplies also over kill for dining/lounge, 2x is ok. You don't need the one in the dining area at all, as the lounge ones will cross flow across the dining area anyway. Sweeping that area. Just up the lounge flows to compensate. Do you need the extract in the hall? Bed 2, 3 and 4 supply will over spill into hall, and that will be swept continuously, locate that extract to the 'hot press' Why spiral duct and not semi flexible? You will need a cross talk attenuator between each room with a branch system. If you go semi flexible you have a plenum and that handles cross talk for all rooms.

Why are you zoning and therefore needing to have a buffer?

Hope you aren't going the buffer route, and just do a single open zone.

So use something like this https://www.plumbingsuperstore.co.uk/product/hep2o-four-port-valved-manifold.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19088411016&gbraid=0AAAAAouuUvBBf8JjHjM-jpvt1ytEskuKZ&gclid=CjwKCAiA_dDIBhB6EiwAvzc1cIRTqTj3BAbhUmiDSZ9ZA72yeXC9NxZJomU3TMvJX9sYznUZNVbQWhoCuJoQAvD_BwE If the manifold is close to cylinder pipe in 22mm, if you decide to locate remote and more central pipe in 15mm from cylinder to manifold. I used one isolation valves per wetroom and branched in room itself. Other pipe to each outlet in wetroom with its own isolation valve.

In theory yes - in practice? Read the rules go direct to the BUS scheme wording so you know exactly where you stand. DHW and heating system are different things. I would have whole central heating system done as one event. Include the DHW cylinder install and then have a distribution manifold with an isolator valve for each wet room from DHW cylinder. Then central heating is all sorted, DHW you just open the valve associated to the wet room when wet room is completed.

Are you running high flow temperatures in thin screed. If not your floor will self regulate. In a low energy house, the floor temp is only going to be 1 or 2 degrees warmer than the room, most of the heating season. So solar gain naturally shuts down floor output. No need for a thermostat to do it for you. A floor surface that is at or equal to room temperature has zero heat output. A room that is warmer than the floor surface, the actually sucks heat in. If the floor loops are circulating this heat is absorbed by the heating water and redistributed around the house. We also have a similar house (we get massive solar gain in the shoulder seasons) we dumped the thermostatic micro managed system an age ago. Works way better without it.

Not always, many get a massive oversized charge for additional overheads that MCS requires. You also have a time frame from application to completion, to get the grant. If you are planning to run parts of the system in different stages, you are going to have add a buffer and live with the efficiency hit, to allow the heat pump to function correctly. Then when all the heating is in, remove the buffer. To get a piece meal system to function will take a little thought and planning.

What is the reasoning behind this statement. From what you describe you are going to need a big pay check to pay the heating costs. I would step back, post some details about your house and ask for suggestions Your proposal is going to end up a very poor performer and super expensive to run. Poor insulation in the floor (this is what you currently propose) when heating the floor is actually worse than no insulation in many situations. My solution would be ASHP, remove current floor to the concrete, egg crate panels (no insulation) and then 16mm UFH pipe at appropriate centre spacing. Screed. Then your stone floor finish. But do over whole ground floor. If you don't want that, dump the whole UFH project. And do your proposed plan for electric UFH only in bathroom on a timer. Then install modern storage heaters on E7 or better Octopus storage heater tariff.

So why do you need all these thermostats then? Not sure I have a read a single thread on here where anyone says Heatmiser are good, generally misreading, failing or not communicating.

Egg shells plus screed works. Do 16mm Pert-al-Pert tube. Insulated below at a higher thermal resistance to what ever is above the floor to ensure heat moves upwards not downwards.

Then you will add nice carpets and the output of the floor will be killed. Add fan coils for decent cooling in summer and to add heat in winter. Or radiators and run same temp as UFH or just add fixings for electric heaters, just in case you need! Just wouldn't bother with UFH.