JohnMo

Exactly. And they need trickle vents to perform correctly, as they provide cross flow ventilation, that's how dMEV works.

No one will get in to trouble, does anyone care. The install company just charge you for each visit, so generally just a rip off. But you really need a ventilation strategy. I would have trickle vents, then add humidity activated vents to them, so if you need additional ventilation they open automatically and then close as required. https://www.bpdstore.co.uk/glidevale-energy-saver-humidity-sensitive-trickle-ventilator/p/182

Our best from BT and any landline provider was basically rubbish internet, so bad they guy I spoke said I shouldn't bother and just get 4G. I did and generally get a good service. Got a proper 4G modem and unlimited data SIM card for it. Not a dongle, so it just looks and feels like normal WiFi. Don't have a landline phone, never used it out last house, just use mobiles this.

If you have MVHR there is zero requirements for trickle vents, and you still comply with all building regs. Any other ventilation system needs trickle vents. Without cross flow ventilation your house isn't ventilated correctly and likely to susceptible to mould issues.

Nothing extra needed except you need a thermostat that can do cooling and heating. I am using a Computherm Q7RF. I operate the whole UFH as a single zone. You need to call for heat the opposite way, when looking at cooling v heating. My ASHP has a summer winter switch, in summer it does DHW and cooling, in winter DHW and heating. Not all ASHP do cooling out the box, so check the ones offered do. It's hotter today than yesterday and the house definitely feels cooler today with the cooling on, than yesterday when it was off.

Why would you want to flow 100l/min. That about 40kW? What size heat pump are you installing? What flow rate do you need? How long are your pipe runs? Piping sizing is a product of max allowable pressure drop and required flow rate. 28mm on 6kW heat pump will do loads of distance, but on a 12kW heat pump may be marginally on a short run. More information required. I take you have radiators, hence the need for mag filter? For UFH there is nothing magnetic so a mag filter bring nothing to the table. Expansion tank? How are you filling the system and bleeding the system? Are you not using the heat pumps circulation pump? Or are you installing a buffer in a 4 port configuration? If you do have a buffer it may be more beneficial to install in a 2 port configuration (as a volumiser), then you don't need a second circulation pump or take an efficiency hit on the heat pump. Flex hoses from heat pump to solid pipe?

They obviously know no different or better, possibly only worked on houses with poor insulation. Prior to the ASHP with the gas boiler and mixer we had 30 deg flow at below zero outside. Worked fine. The heat pump seems happy enough and is certainly pulling heat from the floor, as runs for about 20 mins at a time. If it had nothing to transfer it's cool water to it would just short cycle. 300mm works fine for cooling (it's not Aircon cold), and maybe not as good as 150mm could be, but takes some the extreme heat out of the house. It has a cool feel when you go in, but the air temp may not be as cool as you would think. I think the floor pulls the heat from you, opposite to UFH heating. I realised this morning the cooling didn't come yesterday or this morning at all, due to communication issues with DHW, so the ASHP never switched off DHW. The house was noticeably hotter last night. That hiccup is now fixed.

Was in town earlier, shell was 143p for diesel and petrol, Asda 141p diesel and 139p petrol

Our does everyday at the moment. Cooling starts at 8am, hot water 9am, cooling goes off at 5pm. It just waits a couple of min after hot water before starting cooling circulation again. It will circulate through UFH until has reached the cooling switch on point, which cooling set point, plus target delta T, plus 2. So for us it will start cooling again at 18 degree return temp.

I would say yes, then wind direction had the same influence on both the inlet and outlet. I prefer wall outlets less to go wrong years down the line with roof penetration. You can have them close together if you use a directional inlet outlet.

Cool_Energy_diverTech_Manual_Version_1.1.pdf

It very similar to cool energy diverter. The CT clamp is just looking for a flow energy out of the house, nothing more. If there is no PV to heat or the cylinder is hot enough it seems to say water tank hot. Easy way to check CT clamp is correct is wait until PV is off. Switch the kettle on, if your diverter kicks into life you have clamp the wrong way round. Have not found a single immersion thermostat that is correctly calibrated. They all seem the have a dial about 10 degs out of calibration.

We just have electric radiators in the bathroom to supplement the UFH for towels. Didn't bother with piping them up.

DPM - goes above your hardcore, you also need a layer of sand above the hardcore, to stop stones making holes in the DPM - then your DPM. You need a thin polythene later also between the insulation and the screed. It goes on before the UFH pipes and they get stapled to the insulation through the membrane.

Many, if not nearly all, will do after the house is watertight. I am one of the exceptions, and found it was extremely easy doing that way. You need to know where your internal walls are going and not change. You need to use concrete, not a screed generally. Looking at your drawing I have the following comments For UFH, your insulation in floor is poor. You need to increase to 150mm minimum, ideally to 200mm. This is your only opportunity to change this really, you will need to increase the whole floor build-up depth. I would leave the screed thickness where it is, or add subtract a little to make the floor perimeter blockwork work out. I ended up increasing mine to 100mm.

Sorry

Also does it depend where the measurements is taken. As I understand it - the top of the cylinder should stay at a given temp, until the thermocline (not sure if that's the correct word now) slowly moves up the cylinder over time as heat is lost. So a full cylinder of 48 deg water starts at that temp all way top to bottom, as heat is lost the bottom of the cylinder moves closer to ambient, the ambient temp creeps up the cylinder until the whole cylinder is at ambient.

You can get them, uses the refrigeration circuit waste heat to heat the cylinder.

It's all bs, we want ASHP to save the planet, says the national government (here have a load of Dosh), local government say no we don't want them, so make it difficult.

You will need plenty of solar to heat 2 x 300l cylinders to a usable temperature. A third the amount of solar if you used a heat pump while generating solar.

You need an inverter designed for the task, so take two independent arrays. So is basically two inverters (2 x DC inputs) with a single AC output.

Not really that different, as the same equipment is used in both cases, a gas platform I just did a project on has 3 phase separation and gas compressors, it doesn't have water injection though. An oil field will have 3 phase sepereration, gas compressors and possibly or likely to have water injection. Very similar on a process flow diagram.

Have you read the alpha boilers document? They only allow water at 30 degs to go to the boiler via a mixer valve. Now think about a hot summers day, water at well over 20 can enter the boiler with no ill effects. Your heating system water does the same. Just use a mixer valve to control the temp to sensible limit. So you save and also get an uplift in DHW performance all year round.

Are you heating with a solar diverter? It may be the cylinder isn't cold enough to call for the heat pump to start. You restarting the heat pump and therefore the logic, the heat pump decides it's time to heat up. Now looking at the upper shut off temperature instead of the lower restart temperature. Or maybe the mixergy self learning has said you have enough hot water so doesn't send out a call for heat. You restarting everything resets it all. So maybe some temperature settings to change or give it a bigger window to be allowed to heat. Don't have a mixergy cylinder, but I just set my time from 9am to 5pm, when I have solar generated. Let it do its thing, generally only heats once per day.

Not sure about that, worked in the oil & gas industry for 30 years, and they do come out of the same hole. You generally in an oil field get a 3 phase flow out the well - oil, water and gas (it can be loads of gas). Its the gas in the oil that makes it flow under its own pressure. An oil field that has no gas, requires pumps in the well to pump the oil to surface and are generally not that economical. On a gas field you just have a lot of gas than oik, but you will still get some oil or condensate or both and again water. You will use some gas for power generation on an offshore platform, maybe 20-40MW of gas turbine driven generators, reinject some gas into the oil field, and export some via to pipeline to onshore, you will also inject water, mostly seawater but also produced water. In the 70s they just flared the gas, i.e. burnt it - many 10s or 100s of million standard cubic feet per day. Until they had export facilities to get the gas onshore or to a processing terminal.