JohnMo

Or go on somewhere like 12volt planet or most automotive electric wholesale places, you can buy ready split.

At least their passive in operation and if the internal humidity is low they will close.

The thing I don't like about these reviews they are anonymous. Some of the test results show better performance on fan speed 2 than on fan speed 1, some the other way around. So some consistency of testing may not there. So he's getting 60+ efficiency,mostly above that and at one 81% - data sheet for the mini states up to 84% efficiency.

Injection of foam will have zero effect on heat transfer or losses. You need to wrap the column in insulation. Something like 25mm PIR and then plasterboard.

I would have a look at a through wall heat pump, looks like a small storage heater, with an inlet and outlet for air behind through the wall. You will get a CoP of circa 3, where a UFH will be a CoP of 1.

Must say I am in the process of changing to Octopus, they have been really good so far. I do have a smart meter for electric, still have my gas, but that meter is a normal one. The smart meter has never worked(no communication), with BG it was just an issue that was never getting fixed. Within a week Octopus have sent software patches to my meter. Just wait to see if it fixes. I moved to Octopus because everyone says the service is great, plus the standing charges were cheaper than my existing suppliers. So do Octopus.

Insulation arrived, (high temp UV resistant) so have installed the pipes through the wall and joined to flex hoses. Pipes have a continuous fall of 40mm per metre back to the drain back unit. Will glue the joints when I have leak tested. Drain back unit filled with water (circa 8L)

No wild cats (as far as I can tell), but see red squirrels, had Mallard ducks nesting this year. Had about 20+ swans on loch.

Thanks. Will keep updating, solar pipe insulation has just arrived, so can start running some pipe externally.

They all do that eventually.

Not much progress had to order some more unistrut bits, that weren't available locally. So the solution to panel install is simple but requires a couple of hinges. The support structure will hinge down, I can support structure, install panel at ground level. Then lift up the assembly and bolt in place.

For when life's to short, or... https://www.screwfix.com/p/oregon-powersharp-40cm-chainsaw-chain-sharpening-stone-pack-3-8-x-0-050-1-3mm-/2178K?kpid=2178K&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Outdoor and Gardening?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&ds_rl=1249410&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8NilBhDOARIsAHzpbLDogJgapl5A5Amw7cW3olHMQcNrQjIj7uz3iTYNIgjBDTiYaJBC7oMaAuB6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Take 5 mins to watch a YouTube video on sharpening, buy the correct diameter round file. It takes 5 to 10 mins to sharpen. Depending on what your cutting you should sharpen every tank or second tank of fuel. It makes sharpening easier and quicker. If your chain lasts 2 years you don't use it very often and don't cut much. My wife has a self sharpening Oregon chain on her electric chainsaw. You can get retrofit kits also. Believe Amazon and Screwfix sell them. Most chain makes will be ok. It's the number of links you need to get the same.

https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/tools.html#api_5.1

Too late/early - correct they are R32 models.

Maxa i-32V5 which he the same as a Viessmann Vitocal 100-A. It has CO2 refrigerant.

R290 can give a greater CoP at higher flow temps, but there is very little or no difference at 35 flow. Vaillant 7kW has a SCoP of 4.36 at 35 deg. Mine (Maxa/Viessmann a CO2 one rated at 6kW has SCoP of 4.46. The 7kW vaillant is really closer to a 10kW machine, a CO2 one at 10kW has SCoP 4.53. Look at any spec sheets for your application and expected flow temps before choosing.

I got mine from https://www.directplastics.com We're very competitive at the time.

There are two types of pvc fascia, thick and thin. The thick one can be used without wood behind, the thin one is a capping to be used over wood. The fixing method is different, thin one pinned into place for example. I chose to have wood behind, makes it easy to install gutters as you have a good fixing point behind the fascia trim.

Or just need to get people used to operating the heating system as one or possibly 2 zones only. Then there is no need for a buffer or any form of indoor unit, just a 3 way diverter, to the heating system and the DHW system. Run on weather compensation or a modified curve to use almost a batch heating style in the shoulder months to overcome short coming in the modulating range of the heat pump.

Our heat pump, will follow a heat up curve, it's a matter of being able to take away the heat effectively, otherwise the you move heat around a system and it doesn't get to where it needs to be. That's why it's best to limit zones etc. in the heating system. But boilers are the same, it's just that gas has been traditionally very cheap, so really bad installs go unnoticed, by the owner. Another thread today mentioned oil boilers are 93% efficiency, but in most installs with loads of thermostats and an oil boiler limited or none existent modulation, short cycling is the order of the day unless running against a large thermal store. Would expect in this installs 50 to 60% efficiency if your lucky.

So high flow either side of the PHE is key

If the weighted average is above 29p you may as well be on standard rate.

It's ok, I really just used what I already had. Used really as a proof of concept, the thermal store is only 180l so there isn't a big reserve of heat for DHW. If it was an UVC the concept would be better. PHE is really the wrong side of the diverter valve to use for defrost. Trouble with the heat source it just wants to make dT correct all the time. If the dT is low it just ups the discharge temp to compensate, so you soon get to max discharge temp and the heating cycle stops. Then you are into short cycling. Without a pump in the system the water transfer via thermosyphon is not controlled and likely to be too slow.

I have an external PHE connected to heat a vented thermal store. It takes water from the bottom of the store and it is pumped through the PHE to the top of the store. Heat is provided by a 6kW ASHP. The PHE works in a similar/same principle as a mixergy one does. The thermostat located about 40% up from the bottom of cylinder is set for about 42 degs. Heating cycle goes something like this. Cylinder PHE pump starts, and ASHP starts DHW. Cylinder becomes unstratified, overall cylinder temp drops as water from bottom and top of cylinder mix. Heat pump gradually ramps up temperature of its output to maintain a 6 deg dT. When it gets to about 55 deg the thermostat is made in the cylinder. The heat pump stops Over the next 20 mins or so the cylinder re-stratifies with a temp of around 50 at the thermostat. If I reduce the PHE pump speed heat transfer is not as effective and the ASHP cannot heat the cylinder to satisfy the thermostat set temperature.