JohnMo

No underlay otherwise you are glueing to the underlay which is a bit of waste time and expensive glue. You either float on underlay or glue not both. Glue is better for heat transfer.

On a gas boiler its a resister for natural gas to lpg conversion. At the beginning of the thread it mentions it Repeat of the above h too slow doing the response

Don't ask, you won't get the answer, you're not looking for. But before you do any insulation, make sure it's done in a way that doesn't damage the building fabric.

Immediately after formal issue of the completion certificate, I believe

True True, but if your min modulation is 7kW and the heating required for your UFH is 1kW, your boiler run is very short, hence it short cycles as it's designed to. Doesn't mean its efficient. And back to your original question.

Just went through it again, I was looking at volts drop instead of volts % drop. 10mm2.

I used the online calculator in the previously linked threads.

So shed would require 50mm2. You may need to plan this a little differently.

Something well a miss. Your panel amps stays the same, if you have an 10 amp panel , you have 10 amps, you need to calculate voltage drop at volts x number of panels and panel amps, ignore the watts.

Mine wouldn't connect to the internet correctly, so they are in the loft, mentally labelled a f'ing waste of money.

Do wireless, would be my advise, then you can move to the best place when you put the heating on.

If the double socket already exists, I would be central to that, where ever it is on the wall, otherwise both will look wrong. Although it looks a bad location altogether, by a door and stairs. You want it be in place where the air likely to be still.

Yes permitted development rights will be removed, so you will need planning applications for anything would have been permitted rights previously. I would ask for clarification, or possibly better, don't and take the literal wording as a given - as the wording states 'extension' so you cannot extend. It doesn't mention garden room or shed or garage or heat pump etc. It just says extension.

Should be easy enough to automate and include a cooling curve. Based on outside temp. But you need to make sure the cooling need is outside temperature dependent. Ours isn't. So a simple automated outside temperature cooling curve just wouldn't work for us. It can be 12 or 32 outside, if the sun isn't shining it's not an issue, but if the sun is shining the living room can overheat. But with "home assistant" and solar irradiation forecasting, I could automate a relay to kick the cooling on, only on the days required. But what happens when I move to heating, will the relay cause issues to the heating system functionality, as it a shared control system? Possibly Another variable, if it's not sunny and outside temp is below 22 deg, you just open a window or two if the house is to warm. Lots of variables with cooling and what if and buts, that are not there with heating.

I did my long runs in DC. Keep amps low otherwise cables start to get huge very quickly. link to the threads below. It works a treat, no issues at all so far.

Are you also getting you electric from them or just export payment? If just export they may not be allowed access to your smart meter, that being controlled by the current supplier

The time it took to write the post, you have done it. Need to tick a box, sensible, no, but the box needs ticked.

Here is write up https://www.pettyson.co.uk/about-us/our-blog/792-what-should-humidity-be-in-a-house#:~:text=Both winter and summer levels,humidity levels%3A 30-50%

No I am not saying that. If you add a LLH you will need another pump in addition to the one you already have. Do the checks and report back.

I have a cooling thermostat, but it's set to 21.5 deg. But this morning the house is about 21, I know the suns going to out all day, so I will manually override so the cooling comes on earlier than it otherwise would do. I found over the last couple of months when it's been wet the house was most days hovering around 21, even though it was raining most the day, the cooling coming on would have been a waste a time. So have resorted to overriding the thermostat. I am just doing batch cooling instead of heating, so I use PV instead of paying for it.

I just flow mine with a target flow temp of 11 from around 0930 until 5. Basically using solar when it's there. I only put it on, when it's likely to be sunny after about 3pm, if it's not sunny I don't need it. Anything lower than 11 deg, I get condensation on the pipes etc. so don't go there. Not sure you need to be scientific nor do any weather compensation.

Not disagreeing about common sense. But leaving holes open in the building open isn't testing the rest of the fabric. You know if there is a 100mm hole and a fan is in it. You don't know there's a 100mm hole, cut by accident hiding out the way. The point is you test every building the same way, not make up the test to suit the outcome you want to see. I have two MVHR units and multiple inlets and outlets, they all get blocked during an air test, because that is ventilation over and above those leaks that occur during a build. You are not testing for known leak sources, you are testing for hidden leaks, to show the overall airtightness of the building. If everyone tests a different way, it's "shite in, shite out" and totally meaningless

@Big Jimbo, when you have finished saying everyone is wrong, have you ever read the spec for an air test. Me thinks not. You are wrong, the tested is supposed to block the things he did. This is the spec the air tester has to work too (attached) It clearly states P6.4 ensuring that permanently open uncontrolled natural ventilation openings are temporarily sealed P6.5 ensuring that mechanical ventilation and air conditioning systems are turned off and temporarily sealed to prevent air leakage during testing P6.8 ensuring that open-flued appliances and controls are temporarily sealed including any internal air inlets P6.9 ensuring that kitchen and bathroom extractors are temporarily sealed P6.10 ensuring that all passive stack ventilation points are temporarily sealed ASTATT2-Prepare-building-for-air-tightness-testing.pdf

It gets a tick in the correct box. Then the poor owner, who obviously knows no better really, gets a damp, musty house and wonder why. Possibly saying airtight houses are sh*t, wish we never bothered.

What is totally wrong, that BC will let them amend the result from 4 to 5 and not just insist they install dMEV. Having the option to make a result look worse than it is, just isn't right.