JohnMo

Watch this, lots of reasons to dump the glycol - plus are you managing it's condition and any acidity build up. https://youtu.be/gHHrQzoX7C0?si=GtEdv9g732mCe_xK

Official you need a certified flow meter with current certificate, to support you flow rate settings

Can you, do they take offence?

Bit like the OP then

I just simplified all this. We have a 15mm pipe from cylinder to a manifold, then one pipe to each wet room, again in 15mm. The 15mm is branched out once in wet room to each hot water outlet. Our ensuite is about 20m from cylinder so it has a hot water return. Run the same size pipe, in our case 15mm, back to the return pump and then to cylinder. Ideally you want the thermostat on the return pump and a timer.

Simple, you find the GSE tray sizes and then choose a PV panel that fits. Doing it the other way around doesn't really work.

Not in your imagination - you are living in a nearly unheated space, it isn't a healthy place to be. Heat the place never let it drop below 16 degs (yes even at night). Bet your chest issues go away.

Yep, I installed an electric pulley, single handed MVHR install through loft hatch into plant room, same for the 210L cylinder.

Just a single dMEV fan in the utility - Greenwood CV2 can be picked up on eBay for about £30. Pulls a few Watts.

Yep. We had rain for nearly month, mostly at or near 100% humidity, (in fact the year we have high humidity outside) house stays at 40% humidity, not by magic, because its heated.

But won't cut it, on pissed angle then

The membrane does two things, stops thin fluid screeds from going under the insulation. But second stops a chemical reaction between the aluminium skin on the PIR and the cement in the dry or wet screed forming hydrogen gas.

The person that put the UFH drawing together, has assumed you will be having a fully zoned system, so each space will have a thermostat including the hall. That is why they bunch all the pipes together when transitioning through an area. This where the design comes in not making pretty images. You need to understand the heat output and space heat demand. Areas like the utility can be overheated very easily with so many pipes going through area. You need the so called designer to factor this in to the design - LoopCad will do this for you automatically. LopCad is a free to download and a month or so free to use. A weekend messing with is will have a good design done.

There me thinking people that needed dehumidifiers, really needed to sort out the ventilation - maybe they do? If we dry clothes on an air dryer in the utility, they dry fine, humidity levels bearly change in the house, certainly nothing noticeable.

Just done a search "This has potentially increased since the COVID-19 pandemic (Young et al., 2024), with many people working-from-home in environments with poor mechanical air-ventilation (Naz- aroff, 2021). The proportion of time spent in indoor, CO2 enriched environments could also contribute to the changes in blood chemistry noted in the NHANES data and is an important consideration in interpreting changes over time, and forecasts for the future.

Dehumidifier - not sure it would make our house comfortable at all, it never much above 40% in winter. Stripping more humidity would not make sense. Think a heat pump dryer pulls 3-400W.

But could it equally be increases in house airtightness, coupled with poor ventilation, kids playing less outside, spending too much time inside etc.

Not sure how, neither condenser dryer nor heat pump dryer have an air outlet. Older ones are supposed to have air vent routed outside

I used these inside and out, used hundreds, almost zero issues https://mkm.com/product/47mm-x-50mm-rough-sawn-carcassing-green-treated-t001663 These wood screws https://www.screwfix.com/p/reisser-cutter-tub-pz-countersunk-high-performance-woodscrews-5mm-x-100mm-250-pack/734pv

New invention, we bought ours about 15 years ago.

Not sure if you house layout, but could you add a dMEV fan (high up on an internal wall to push the heat from your hot room to hall way etc.

That's sad, for you, a heat pump dryer is a wonderful thing. Nice soft clothes and towels and next to no energy to do it.

You can get it from Amazon, RS Components, just choose the correct thickness. I choose RS Components so I get a known quality.

Couple of comments - because I can't help myself. 1. You have all loops transiting via what I assume is a hallway, then an additional 3 loops dedicated to the hallway. Deleted the dedicated loops and spread the pipes transiting through halls to provide hall heating. 2. Low temp heating will perform just as well with either spiral or serpentine. 3. Design is done on the premise of zoned heating, using a thermostat to control each area. Bit like adding the largest radiator you can fit on a wall in each room. As it is the floor array isn't designed for room heat loss, so balancing the heating will be battle. 3. Your pantry wants to be cold, I would keep all pipes well away from there by at least 300mm. 4. Assume your manifold is in or close to the utility, with all the loops transiting through that area, it will always be hot in heating season, you do not need a dedicated loop there. You will also need to think about adding insulation to pipes to prevent overheating. So 9mm insulation for the first 2m of each loop or run in 20mm conduit to thermally disconnect from screed for the first couple of meters. 5. Drawing by something selling products, not heating design. It isn't a heating design.

A lot of heat generators in a small area, the 16 loops if not insulated, would make the room hot, battery, inverter and cylinder will all add to it. Summer will be hot, running cooling via UFH should offset the heat some what.