JohnMo

Use a thread sealant, I like to use Loctite 55. Some versions of that tap come with PTFE tape to seal the thread.

That's what drives the flow temperature, if you have lower room temps you can operate at a lower flow temp without issue. Not sure I buy that with a well thought out floor design. We are at 300mm and cannot see any variations in floor temp, but pipes are 100mm down, nearer 120mm if you include the wooden floor. Proper cooling thermostat will have this. We have humidity control in one of our sensors. That's a strange one - any obvious reason for this rule?

Definitely for the first few days until you understand what happens.

Your 3 way diverter valve will be upstream of the buffer, so buffer will stay cool, while the heat pump moves from cool to heating mode, it will swing the diverter valve, heat cylinder, then swing the diverter valve back and change mode to cooling. You may get a small slug of hot water into buffer. dT sounds fine, it will greep down possibly, mine is currently sitting at 2.3 degs. But it runs at max flow rate while cooling.

Surface temp has to be below localised air dew point - so not that likely.

When you move in, then declare to your normal home insurance provider, you are still doing xzy scopes.

Would start there, if you are not getting the cooling effects you want (takes a few hours) you can safely go down to 14ish. Look at your UFH manifold, if you start to see water forming, you have gone too low - it should stay nice a dry.

I have an UFH controller with room sensors. It takes a volt free open/closed contact, to switch between heat and cool, have use a similar contact on the ASHP, instead of the controller. Then use a single switch to switch everything between heat/cool. Then use the sensor in the room that gets hottest first to initiate cooling - but I run the house as a single zone, with no actuators on the UFH manifold. I do cooling as a seasonal switch over. So it now on until end of September, but only really comes on when it's needed

Ever moving goal posts - lots of new products to sell. PV has worked for decades on normal UK electrics. But now you can't do it without bidirectional and the correct armoured cable, MCS approved mount systems etc.

Download the manual various ways to switch to cooling

Just download a trial copy of loopcad for doing UFH design.

You beat me to it. I'm closer to 15W/m2 output at -9. Sounds like cosy feet and melted body to me at 40W/m2. The 75mm spacing make my 300mm strange, I still only flow 28 degs max.

It does do cooling, but have to switch between heating and cooling modes. If you are going down to 20 you are in heating mode.

If your heat pump does cooling - not all do. But how are you going to control it? Do your thermostats do cooling? Would set flow temp to 14.5 to 16, fixed flow temp, you want the heat pump to run long cycles. I would have all loops open, so if your thermostats do not do cooling, you will need to fool the system by winding the thermostats to max setting a few hours before you expect to get hot. Do not be tempted to go below 14.5 otherwise you are likely to condensation issues. Would be looking to simplify that.

Very true Very wrong. Just exported 5kWh on the scheme, so should be earning £5.60 in a couple of days. £1 per kWh from the scheme and another 12p from Octopus. I live in NE Scotland. So far with my sign up bonus I am £30 up, in 5 days.

Without an air gap there is zero reflection - if aluminium it just becomes a conductor.

Assuming time of use tariff Direct UVC immersion cylinder - size to suit house bedrooms and storage temp. ASHP, anti freeze and isolate directly on ASHP, pipe through wall flow - direct to UFH manifold isolation valve return, filter and strainer to Panasonic spec, through wall to ASHP isolation valve. That is all the plumbing done. Run in 28mm Hep2O. No Flexi pipes needed. Insulate piping

But we have also had a decade not even looking for it, because what's the point. They just get push back fron further developments. So it's all a wasted discussion

This thread hasn't been making much sense the wording proven reserves. It has defined meaning which doesn't include a whole bunch of oil and gas we know is in the ground. What isn't included Proved Undeveloped (PUD) If the well was drilled to test the reservoir (an appraisal well) and then capped, but bringing it to full production requires a significant capital investment—such as building a new platform, installing subsea pipelines, or drilling additional production wells—it can still be called a Proved Undeveloped reserve. However, it can only be called a proven reserve if the company has a formally approved, commercially viable Field Development Plan (FDP) and a firm commitment to fund and produce it within a reasonable timeframe (typically 5 years). So there are plenty of wells that fit category. The wells may be sour or heavy oil, so at the time not developed further due to low oil price, technology etc. I was involved with development of a reservoir 20 years ago, the oil is still in the ground, the production path was not implemented at that point. So is classed as proved undeveloped - it had a 10 year design life with initial flow of 40k barrels a day. I know of quite a few similar - none are included in the graphs that keep being presented on this thread.

I only stumbled across it at the weekend, think the schemes have been running a year or so. Not convinced by that statement, but the £1 per kWh is in addition to the normal export rate you get from the utility company. So my real rate is £1.12 per kWh. If they lowered the pay out much, the advantages start to disappear and people drop out of the scheme.

But he then said, thanks for only putting those two pipes through the ceiling, that bloke down the road had 21, I kid you not 21! By the way guy two door door down, runs them in a service void, so they are hidden, so well out the way - I can't win all my battles.

I have just signed up for a virtual power plant scheme - doing my bit and getting paid for it. For those not aware when grid is in short supply they pull on your battery and 100/1000s of others. Taking a few kWh and pay me £1 per kWh. Expect to receive £10 a month minimum - but will see how it goes. If anyone wants a referral and get £25 credit to there account send me a message.

Count to 2, have a cuppa or go to pub while other person continues drilling the other 19 holes. Then if surface mounted the plasterer say what numbty put all this pipes here

Still have the same amount of manifold outlets, without the faff of punching loads of holes through between floors. Two holes job done. If you 21 pipes between the upper and lower floor you already have way too much complexity. So saying 21 pipes between floors is not complex, seems a stretch

Just choose a wireless thermostat that switches between cool and heat easily - I say wireless then you can move it to where it gives the best representative house temperature. But the Panasonic controller has one built-in (pretty sure), just use this. It should do cool and heat out the box.