JohnMo

Sound pretty similar to what I have (but no softener). Stop tap on bottom right, then outside tap, filter, prv, tee to cold manifold and the white pipe to cylinder. Top left comes from cylinder.

Looks like you have a 3 port buffer configuration, which from an efficiency perspective is better than 4 port. Is it worth the effort to remove maybe not as you will only get very small gains with it being a 3 port buffer. So the question is do you need it, that would depend on zones and capacity of the smallest zone meeting your minimum water volumes required by the heat pump. Your secondary pump can obviously pump the volumes.

I am not charging a car and wanting to do it fast, the 80% figure is not relevant - I may only be charging the battery at 3kW via a 6kW inverter (which is way below what the batteries could accept). So the behaviour is just fine.

Welcome What is being quoted and for what, I do they access or is it difficult?

Or just about any other 6kW ASHP would do the job. Don't be fooled in to buying very expensive ASHP most big manufacturers are just as good. As long as it's sized correctly and most importantly installed on a good system design all is good

Really to should take the cold water from the balanced feed on the inlet group for the UVC. But I did a retrofit so have a pressure control valve on the inlet to the house so in effect everything is balanced close enough as not to have issues). No issues with a manifold. I have a manifold for hot and cold. One supply to each wet room and then branch from there. You would need two colds (one hard and the other soft water). Mine looks similar to the one shown but with a different makers name on it. Are you new build or retrofitting?

Not sure if you fixed or not, but 7% reduction coming as everyone is aware, but a 12% hike expected for winter. I will stay on my fixed tariff (until March 2025) on current prices, take a small hit in summer when consumption is low and take the discount in winter when heat pump usage drives consumption up.

My manual says Use a dedicated power line, do not power the appliance through a line to which other users are connected.

Just had a look at some data sheets, even a 14kW ASHP will only require a max of 6.6kW or 29 Amps

A fuller answer Only with a smart meter or 4.5p without (or with a smart meter that doesn't communicate). And you do an MCS install or are accepted on to the octopus trial and have also paid a big chunk of money over to them and possibly a structural engineer for the privilege. I just chuck the excess into my battery, when that's full hot water. If the sun's out the ASHP is cooling for free also.

Your not really comparing apples with apples - 100kWh and looks like a DIY build (without reading 54 pages) with small fuses and enough battery power to jump the gap of a failed fuse. Not nice for the guy and family!

Easy store water at 48, but they may not accept that. Or add a blending valve on the hot water outlet of the cylinder.

Is it a loft or plant room? It's inside the thermal envelope so not susceptable to freezing etc.

Check the shower mixer instructions they should have a flow temp tuner (normally hidden inside) to ensure the centre of the temperature knob is at 34 or 36 degs. You can normally adjust this to it takes in less cold water and more hot. I found storing in the cylinder at 48 the shower was just a little cool, while 50 was fine and could get it hotter than I required. It just a matter of a little fine tuning to get the sweet spot.

Not really mine are in just the same space as the OP. They are most likely Lifepo04. So chances of a fire or adding to are minimal. https://www.evlithium.com/Blog/advanced-safety-features-of-lifepo4-batteries.html#:~:text=Non-flammable electrolyte%3A LiFePO4 batteries,battery is punctured or damaged.

+1 also. It all looks a bodge. GMove cylinder get insulation sorted. Trim blue foam flush, tape all joints. You also need tape on the insulation and block work. Finish insulation of pipe by cylinder.

Or better still as far from bathroom as poss and get plenty of cross ventilation

You could, but unless you have considered and worked on airtightness, it not likely that airtight. Another alternative is dMEV, same as MEV (nearly) but no ducts, just a silent fan in each wet room and the same inlets.

MVHR is supply and extract so every room needs an air supply. But by using a cascade system some of this air doesn't need to be directly ducted to the room. This is my house and what it would look like in a cascade system, I did do this in the end for various reasons. In the above there are only two units and two supply terminals and three extracts and one through wall fan unit. It uses the principles of what goes must come out, and fans to force air wherexit wouldn't otherwise travel. Those units where Fresh-R, but any normal MVHR unit can do the same thing with a little thought. MEV would only extract from wet rooms, and use cross flow ventilation to sweep the house. Supply points would be either trickle vents on windows or through wall ducting.

The air travels all the way across the room, approx 5 to 6m depending on flow rate. A normal door needs about 8 to 10mm, some of ours area little smaller, but doesn't seem to affect anything.

New build - nearly all my supply terminal are these https://www.epicair.co.uk/products/supply-air-valve-coanda-effect-8960-90mm Not really true, but mandatory anyway. You just have a supply in the bedroom, the air travels out of room by undercut, to the nearest extract point h as you balance flow and return it's not an issue. Silent in operation, connected direct to 90mm duct.

But does either work on a small scale?

We try not to don't get paid for it. We do cool as required in summer, if it's sunnier the house is generally warm enough it needs to be cooled - free cooling. Not sure about We don't do legionella cycle, as we consume enough hot water not to require it. But we do heat the cylinder to 70 via diverter. Reduces or stops any requirements to heat via heat pump. Our primary excess goes to battery first.

Really depends on if you did any airtight details to ensure the property is reasonably airtight. If it isn't you are just adding more ventilation in a additional to what would normally occur, so it is likely to increase heat loss. I would look at demand controlled MEV with demand controlled inlets first. Runs to keep humidity levels stable, otherwise it's off or at very low rates. Easier to install cheaper to run. If set on MVHR you should consider a design that is a cascade system and it could also make use of coanda effect supply and extract terminals to minimise duct runs.

I was quoted about £700/m2 based on double glazed windows, with a large percentage of the money due 28 days prior to delivery. This was for a wind and water tight, kit of parts. This excluded, all ground work, and all site assembly. But didn't go that direction on the end