JohnMo

Welcome, lots to learn and a good place to start your journey. Currently sitting in our woodcrete ICF house. A versatile building method, just follow the build manual and it's pretty straightforward.

We wrangled and then the wife said we are building there for the views, big windows or I veto the build - decision made, triple glazing added to the plan. Later after build ASHP for active cooling.

Keep your money in your pocket, simplify, get rid of zones, then you don't need a devise to compensate for zones switching on and off - which is the intended service of these actuators.

We are NE Scotland so hot days are less extreme, but we get quite a bit of solar gain especially in spring and autumn. Have had up to 27 inside the lounge when about 10 outside. When hot outside Close all windows and doors. Close blinds if sun coming in If a warm period have the UFH in cooling mode. UF cooling will temper the extreme, but makes the house feel cooler than the air temperature would suggest. Your body heat is moving to the floor (radiating). Once inside is warmer than outside open windows and doors. But leave cooling mode on.

Any would do the job Use what ever method is normal for your area, then trades are easy to get.

Or do a stick build?

Have you actually worked out the figures of Comfoclime for your flow rates? Because to get 1.7kW cooling you need flow rates of over 400m3/h, so passivhaus flow rates for MVHR that a 500m² house give or take. Cooling and MVHR is a bit of waste of money as you are only changing the air every 2 to 3 hrs. It's not good enough. We are not passive, but get overheated with big windows and the sun coming in under the canopy roof. Over heat days overall is not much, but the hours it is hot - without intervention it's very hot. Think, solar glazing, blinds external or less effective (but still good) internal blinds Real Aircon or ASHP with fan coils or UFH with UFH (cooling).

I wanted passive purple for our house, tried calling, email everything, radio silence, never returned emails, messages left with reception. Hope they are better now.

Still confused why a domestic house needs 3 phase?

Currently no. I have a add on coming from Italy hopefully next week that ties in to the modbus allows me log running data directly. I am currently monitoring with a Shelly add on, but the graphics turn in to hourly unless you want to pay a monthly fee. Also monitor on the controller, but it has no direct output or graphics unless you tie in to the modbus.

You can turn the flow rate to this loops down to get less heat transfer. You could use it for monitoring, but really not needed. Ours started with a thermostat in every room. Had loads of issues, with short cycling - they got deleted down to one. Also had a mixer and pump on UFH that didn't help either, so deleted them also. People will say you need a mixer to protect the floor, when you change over from DHW heating, as you will get a slug of hot water going into the floor. But it is a couple of liters and the heat quickly dispersed. Think I can actually manage with zero thermostats and just leave the heat pump to get on with it. Will leave the one I have in place for now, but overridden. Tuning the system and getting your head round all the parameters you can change and what to ignore is the most difficult bit. Dread to think how many times I have read the manual.

Or pay for a G99 inverter if you need to and switch to zero export. The maths for paying MCS prices would soon change if we went that direction.

Little strange the house in the images only have about 2kW of PV, not sure how that would work. Only some plots are zero bills they are EPC A, but developers website has zero detail except stating the house has ASHP, battery and PV.

If it were me, thinking about it. Use a normal smart relay to drive a properly rated normal switching relay. Leave the smart device to do low load switching. The switching relay can be either DIN rail mounted or in own enclosure.

And add bait boxes, we had a rodent issue last winter, ended up with bait boxes, got through about 8kg of poison in 3 months. Still found a hole that wasn't there a year ago in the shed insulation.

You either have one zone or many, you seem to claim both? If you want efficiency dump all the thermostats, maybe keep one (the one in your controller) One zone is best, but lots of loops, all on or all off. But no real need to stop. Low and slow weather comparison is the most efficient generally. If you want efficiency 1. No mixers, buffers, thermostats no actuators on manifold needed. 2. Balance the loops to get the room temps right. 3. You need floor temp as close to room temp as practical, then if the room heats from the sun that area of the floor stops giving off heat, so heat pump modulates down to compensate. Just spent the last couple of days optimising mine. Low flow temp required 11 degs outside, set flow temp target to 26 degs. The start and stop delta to start and stop the ASHP compressor are key. Ours stopped heating at lunch time today with no intervention from me or any thermostat - just because the sun came out, house got to 21.5. Keep as simple as possible for efficiency.

That's a lot of solar, or passivhaus and still quite a lot of solar. Good advertising but not many will be able to meet the requirements - big roof also needed.

Just seen a mistake and can no longer edit. The above should read 5.8 degs.

Made some adjustments based on information provided here and on Renewable Heating Hub. Prior to stating Below Target start delta was 8 degs Above Target stop delta was 0.4. Target flow temp 30.2. with a small WC curve rise to 35 flow at -3. This morning it was close to 11 degs, which is above where I would normally heat. After some tuning got to 2 starts per hour and a 15 to 20 min run time. The sun came out at lunch and the heat pump hasn't restarted, living room at 21.6. ASHP return temp is sitting at 21.1. So setting are quite different Below Target start delta is now 5.8 degs Above Target stop delta is now 2.0 degs. Target flow temp 25 at 14, with a WC curve to -5 and max flow temp of 32.6 degs. Upside is it should run without any house thermostats and generally look after it's self. Just need some warm weather to set up cooling. So the take away are 1. An aspect never discussed is how the heat pump responds to target flow temp. 2. What manufacturer default to may be miles away from what is needed. 3. You don't have to suffer short cycling, it fixable with a little time. 4. Base running target temp has been reduced a whole 5 degs - which should see an uplift of 0.5 in CoP.

Go for something like a Shelly, buy directly off their website, save getting dodgy knock off.

If it's all true, and matches the blurb maybe a good option. We generated next to nothing the last few days, really cloudy so everything was imported, really should have a surplus this time of year. But you can't do much with the weather, unless you have some sort of cost guarantee.

Not if it has aluminium foil either side, not sure how it could be. May be different if it's one of the grades, that has tissue or whatever on it.

That could be more to do with pressure drop than anything else. Normal diverter valves have quite large pressure drops, so when you start pumping more than about 1.5m3/h the drop is quite big, even with 28mm valves.

They are adding more and more wind in Scotland - why because the big plan is hydrogen - using excess wind power to make it.

Mine is a ground bearing slab, insulation and the concrete floor, instead of block and beam. My drainage is under the slab and brought through the insulation. Used insulation formers where drain runs under showers and bath would go to stop concrete getting there. Then once drains were sorted I back filled with concrete. Not sure if the exact logistics of drains and block and beam, but suspect similar.