JohnMo

Good chance, but SNP for now They follow party line, and the Whips ensure that. Their personal view has little to do with how they are instructed to vote etc. And maybe even bring net migration into some sort of control. We only have an issue because our population has grown so much.

That falls under devolved powers and zero to do with the last parliamentary election or any of Labour manifesto pledges. What gets built and how it gets built in Scotland starts and stops at the Scottish parliament.

Forgot to include the weather compensation curve. It starts at 10 degs OAT at a target flow temperature of 26 degs and goes down to -5, where flow is 31 degs. So flow temperature increases 0.33 degs with every degree drop in OAT.

No idea, but assume one or other would be applicable

Further to the last post, several updates, all simplifications - less stuff. Problem 1. I could never get the heat pump to flow at low temperatures without either, short cycling, or the compressor never switching back on again after it's first cycle. The min flow temp I could achieve in heating mode was 29. Now set to 26. Solution is discussed here Problem 2. Was heating the summer house effectively without high flow temps typically above 30. This is somewhat fixed by the above (problem 1), I can now get a much lower target flow temperature. And use the house floor as a buffer and rob the heat in the house floor to heat the summer house. Have set the fan on the summer house fan coil to operate at 21 degs water flow temp. This keeps the summer house at a steady 20 degs. Problem 3. Wife confusion with all the buttons and thermostats. What did what? Basically a house thermostat, summer house thermostat and a different selection switch for heating or cooling. So have simplified this also. Heating is now always enabled and on full WC. No thermostat in the system, and does all control from flow/return temperature and outside temperature. Aim keep house reasonably stable at 20 to 21 degs when in heat mode. When not actually heating/cooling circulation pump runs at min speed (0.6m³/h). This moves heat around the house and into summer house. At lowest flow temp (10 degs OAT and above) ASHP compressor will not start until the return temperature to ASHP drops below 21.1 degs. House thermostat is set in cooling mode. When house is at 23 Deg and above, instead of switching heat pump off it changes mode from heating to cooling. In cooling mode the ASHP looks for a return flow temp above 19.4 degs before actually cooling. No thermostat in summer house or house except cooling and switching thermostat. Modes are any temperature below 23 deg heating enabled, above 23 cooling enabled. So now almost in set and forget mode, just may need to adjust WC curve once it gets cold. Problem 4. DHW have changed this a number of times. Currently set to heat twice, once at 0600 while in E7. This gives wife plenty of hot water for morning shower and lunch time. Then at 3pm it's heated again (gives PV time to heat if available) so plenty of hot water for evening washing up and my evening shower Been quite a steep learning curve.

My electrician, got a double switch and a momentary switch. Not all are suitable and they need to be from the same manufacturer. And merged them together, so I have a normal light switch and a momentary boost switch on a single face plate.

I just use https://www.bwt.com/en-gb/products/protection-for-heating-systems/combi-care/22-mm-combi/ Have it in the inlet pipe to the UVC. Change the cartridge once a year. To descale fully, you really need to do same as you would your kettle and dissolve the stuff, flush away. Not sure it's something I would contemplate on a big cylinder.

Are using the correct terminology first? Cascade would supply air similar to your PIV system to a central location possibly two or three. You would extract back to the MVHR unit for heat recovery. Problem room where you do not get a natural flow through, would be supplemented with through wall fans. Is this what you mean? I would talk to Fresh-R, in The Netherlands, they will ask for your plans and come up with a scheme and cost. Then go from there. Their units modulate fan speed on CO2 and humidity so to minimise ventilation losses.

Don't use them, unless you enjoy taking full risk on your shoulders. I chose to use a supplier that would measure, supply, and install. If they got measurements wrong or things didn't align as expected it was down to them to fix. I paid extra but slept at nights Supply only and a big chunk of money - you carrying full risk, no thank you.

I have two MVHR units one had a humidity stat built in, the other didn't so I use one of these after a recommendation on here. Works great eBay item number 194267294641. Inserted the probe in the manifold.

You need to have boost separated from your lights. 99% of the time you really don't need to boost at all. Ideally set you humidity sensor for about 60% and let it do the work for you. An override switch just in case you need it

Just use EPS duct. I got mine from Epicair.

Woodcrete ICF is good, small windows triple glazed windows and an airtight build. The only place we hear outside noise is via the living room glazed wall. The roof either dense mineral wool or cellulose, but really depends on the how you are doing the roof. But if you need to open windows to cool the place down doesn't really matter what you do, outside noise will come in. So then you need Aircon as well.

I would also, in fact I would do as @joe90 did. Quick and cost effective, very easy DIY. ICF is a bit economy of scale, due to the concrete pump and its cost.

I'm not one of them. We built our house with Durisol once you realise every block has a slight taper least release from moulds) it's a very straightforward process. 6 rows high, OSB on corners and across cut blocks, fill with concrete 5.5 blocks high, repeat. They have a good construction manual also. Very easy to do DIY.

You can get about any length you want, ours is about 9m and they cut about a metre off at site.

https://buffer-tank.co.uk/domestic-hot-water.php The above have add on DHW coil modules, think they also do tank in tank, so DHW in a tank that sits inside the buffer water.

What angle do you class as very shallow? Assume you are really meaning a flat roof if you are limited to 6.4m? Good for summer generation, rubbish for winter. Can you angle on top of roof?

How do you achieve a fully considered conclusion?

My steps would be Set all thermostats and radiator valves to above room room temperature target. Set up your weather compensation without any interference from thermostats. Longer term look to simplify everything to ASHP, diverter valve, possibly a mixer if you need it depending on where flow temperature lands for radiators and floor.

So question is do you need a higher flow temp to allow you play catch-up, once out of setback? if so how is this managed? Also do you allow in the calculations the heat pump running a full or increased load for a few hours to to recover from a set back. Obvious question is why would you bother, with the added complexity, cost to install other stuff and then have to fine tune for steady state, setback and recovery from steady state.

I got this out of home assistant and is the flow temperature going in to the UFH. It has only done two cycles today. First run was at 0425, stopping at 0452, so about 27 mins run time, then off for an hour, restarting around 0550 and running 20 mins or so. It was about 10 degs outside. Now 13 deg. This is the garden room I am trying to keep warm (19 to 20 degs). All being done without a thermostat on WC only. Currently getting about 1 deg swing in temperature. This is the house also connected in the same zone so also getting the same heated water in the UFH, house floor acting as a buffer. Getting 0.25 deg Swing Temp.

Good, we need more. Better than a field or ten or smelly pigs like we have near us. Best producing sites normally have sheep or cows to keep grass and weeds at bay. Vertical panels and crops go well together also so are ideally for food production Not all land east Anglia is prime farming land.

We had a Renualt Trafic during the build, but now have a Ford Transit connect with folding front seat. Can actually get more useful stuff in it, than the Trafic, because the hard bulkhead got in the way. Small van now gets used more than our car, best money you can spend on a vehicle.

It's just an adjustable blending valve, you are only altering the amount of return water that gets mixed into supply water. They aren't the best mixer. They generally will always drop the temperature of the supply by around 10 degs or more. So if your max supply is 45 degs you will get somewhere around 35 degs in the floor. Really depends on the difference in design temp of the floor compared to radiators and also the floor buildup. If you need to blend electronic (ESBE) controlled by your Vaillant controller would be best. But at full retail prices - ouch not cheap. A mechanical solution would be an Ivar mixer that will control to exact temperatures and is very adjustable.