JohnMo

The farmer says he gets it nothing, six lorry loads the other day. He possibly fits into the bracket Most will be burnt by this time next year.

Not when they are huge companies like in Scotland, they buy the whole forest years in advance, when they start cutting they don't stop until the whole area is cleared and then they replant the whole area.

No - good old pine

The farmer next to me has half a field full of wood (trees just felled) to make into fire wood. Gets it from the wood mills free or almost, as they don't want it at the moment.

My floor is 100mm fibre reinforced (think I did C30), paddle floated. Had a few low areas so just used self leveling screed where needed to get it level. Wet rooms are tiles, nearly everywhere else is wood glued down, bedrooms are carpet. My floor was done before any walls were built, easy access, no walls in the way.

Add more insulation if you can. Use the 75mm as your floor and clip the UFH pipes to the insulation, prior to pouring the concrete.

Started my new trial. Overshoot set for 3.0 and flow target set for 26, OAT is 12. Wouldn't normally have the heating on, so a good test for how cycling is affected. First run, ran for 1.25 hrs. Then sat idle for 1.5 hrs. On the next start I reduced the overshoot to 2.5 degs. But DHW heating kicked in. Currently on a thermostat override to keep on to see how it does. Will leave to run the rest of the day.

Had a trial last night have been playing with this myself. LWT from the heat pump is controlled a couple of parameters. To start the heat pump the LWT has to be set delta temperature below target flow temperature. To stop the heat cycle it has to be a set delta temperature above target. The factory settings on my heat pump for the compressor starting dT plus 2 degs and for stopping the compressor 0.2 above target. I did change these last year to 0.4 above. But always noticed a reasonably short cycle time so at 7 OAT would run for 15 minutes and off the 20. Which in it's self is ok, but not the most efficient. With a gas boiler I could run at 25 degrees flow temp, but to get the same heat into the house I now need to run at 29. So last night, set the target flow temperature to 26 and overshoot to 4 degs and the heat pump ran for 20+ before I shut it off. It would have run longer, was at 29.1 when I stopped it. So can get a decent cycle time easy enough, a low target flow temp will ensure the compressor doesn't restart too quickly. But can be manipulated with the circulation running in intermittent or sniffer mode My run, data from the battery so is whole house. It's in 5 min snap shots, but you can see the drop in load at about 5 mins after it's hit target temp. Flow target was 26 degs, end temp when I shut down was 29.1. We have a wet dull cool day again today, will will let the heat pump do a couple of cycles to see what it does.

You will either have a single 3 port diverter or 2x 2 port valves. Were any of these put in to a manual position and not reset?

Do you have an auto mode Unfortunately not. So may have to set something up manually. But luckily have lots of concrete to soak up the heat. Interesting to see the different schemes in place from various manufacturers.

Anything from a 1 min to about 10 min. Once you get to around 10 mins your heat pump has started modulation and you are getting a reasonable CoP. So the longer run you can get the better.

Scotland wanted devolved powers, and that is one of them. Not much you can do about until Scottish election time.

Many heat pump suffer short cycling or fairly short run times in shoulder months, mine included. So in an attempt to understand this more clearly and hopefully developing a coping strategy for all I am after some information. Water leaving temperature will have a target temp let's say 30 degrees, the heat pump has hysterisis for stopping and starting around this temp. So mine (Maxa) it is To start heating CH water the return water needed to be target delta T (between flow and return) + and adjustable 2 degs. So at 30 Deg the flow has to of reduced to between 22-23 Deg. To stop heating the overshoot is allowed to to 0.2 degs over so 30.2 degs. Grant/Chofu heat pumps are Start 8 degs below target (22 Deg) Stop 1 Deg above target (31 degs) The above are adjustable settings What is yours? Make Heating type - radiators, UFH or mixed. Another interesting feature is circulation pump option mode. Run always when there is a heating demand and sniffer mode, with only periodic running of circulation pump, one for a minute off for 10 mins. Do you know how yours operates?

The top image is a ubbink terminal, the sock just goes over the spring clips. These were my last buy https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product/filter-cone-125/

Your simple option is trickle vents, but only in dry rooms, but you don't want the standard open or shut ones, you need to upgrade to self modulating or humidity sensitive. Then you need dMEV fans in every wet room. Next level of complexity as you need to add ducts, is a central extract unit (MEV) with humidity control.

Nothing that wrong that except Bring DPM up the walls Add a perimeter insulation to top of screed. Replace EPS with PIR, 150mm EPS isn't good enough for UFH. PIR compared to EPS will result in 50% better U value. The floor as is, will be drafty so is part of the original ventilation strategy. So you need to think about house ventilation also.

Step back and think. Why do I insulate? To keep warm inside the house and the cold outside. You insulate to form an envelope without gaps around the whole building. Any insulation inside that envelope isn't for thermal reasons it's for noise control.

Can only agree with @DevilDamo If you can't do the drawings yourself, get them professionally completed. Actually take a moment to think about what you want and need. You can only do it correctly once. With a decent set of drawings that you get quotes against, you know what you should be getting from the builder. If they don't deliver you can make out things right. £6k is neither here nor there and as your architect says, you will save more than that.

Not really comparing apples with apples. The mortgage issue is retrofit applied to non vapour open membrane and generally using closed cell foam. Once moisture is in the structure there is no way fir it to get out Ours is vapour open, breathing membrane for upwards transmission of vapour, the vapour shield below to stop moisture entering. My roof in the photos

For my bath and showers I placed a largish rectangle of insulation where I thought I didn't want concrete for drains. I pinned this the lower insulation and made sure it would be flush with the finished level of concrete. When I was ready to sort the bathroom wastes I dug out the insulation, did the drains and then back filled those areas with fresh concrete.

Why is that a good fit. We have a 45 degree slope in one direction and 12 degrees in another direction, with pozi rafters, there were zero issues with construction. We spray foamed 350mm deep. Done in a day and a half to complete 250m² give or take. All cut back ready for VCL.

As said best is I got mine from outsourced energy shop. Decent prices, good delivery. Best system is a simple system. I have no pumps, mixers, no zone valves, no wiring centre. Just a manifold and pipes. https://www.outsourcedenergy.co.uk/shop/

No not really. Your hob extract will also have a grease catcher. You place the MVHR extract away from hob and use a filter sock inside the terminal. They are G4 or G5 filter rating. Mine come out completely dry, but full of dust. Sock installed over internal workings of the terminal (been in place force months) Inside sock after 6 months.

Have good think - is the right direction to go? You should really move the dpc 150mm above ground level. I would go back to the architect and get a proper solution.

Responsive equals high flow temperature, which is the opposite to what is required for a heat pump. 16mm pert-al-pert, plenty of insulation below and screed/concrete above. Then once the heating season starts add low temp heat continuously. A good gas boiler the same process.