JohnMo

You wouldn't have many health issue with plenty of that. No reason to breath anymore.

I would be careful as HVAC means many things, which bit are you thing about HVAC - Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning?

Sounds about right It is, but so is the surface area available. Our house about 192m² so that approx 6kW of cooling power. A set of fan coils may be slightly more effective and targeted, but my heat pump only puts out 6kW of cooling power. As I said above fan coils are better than UFH, and UFH takes the edge off and allow quicker recovery to normal temps. If you have UFH already moving to cooling with a heat pump is zero cost option, which makes the house more comfortable than it would otherwise be. Adding fan coils can make a more comfortable house, but at a cost. If starting from a blank sheet, install fan coils. Why would need to be that high? We flow between 12 and 14. The heat pump will generally cycle. Running for about 40 mins. Manifold does get just below dew point, as I see dulling of bright stainless. But not enough to bother about. To get floor surface temp to 17 you have to flow cooler than that.

Sort of, but looks more like a car radiator that a house radiator.

Not disagreeing - just adding full contextual details. There are several mechanisms at play for both fancoils and UFH (cooling). Fan coils are way better if you have them, that is a given. But if you don't have them, cannot justify the costs or you are retrofitting a HP and cannot justify moving away from UFH. When UFH is in cooling mode, it does make a warm house feel cooler, even if actual air temp is quite high. But also allows cools the house down quickly (compared to not having cooling) when the sun goes away.

Sorry you are not comparing apples with apples. UFH flow temps are warmer than fan coils in the cooling mode - you should be flowing a temp to UFH system, that doesn't generate condensation. At most I have seen a little dulling of the stainless steel UFH manifold at the end of cooling cycle. Never seen a drip or drip forming. Why are using a mid position valve on a heat pump system? Assume you actually mean, diverter valve? Only when discussing radiators - not UFH. And radiators don't do cooling at all well - not really applicable to a cooling thread

You should get a structural design certificate from one company for the whole property including everything from the foundation to the roof top. If the glazing company (and any other company) is providing structural design calculations, the company issuing the structural design certificate should review, comment and approve as appropriate. This should be standard working on the structural drawings and/or notes. Your architecture tech, is misguided.

That is only part of the mechanism. UFH cooling works in the most part by pulling the heat from the body. The floor temp being substantially below the body temperature. So your body radiates heat to the floor.

Most are, but you need to read the datasheet. Some need additional parts (e.g. Vaillant). Simple answer heat pump doesn't care or know what it's pump too. You set flow temperature according to likely dew point within the house. So if you target a house temperature of say 21-22, then your flow temp is set around that. But it is floor surface temperature that is affected by dew point. We flow at around 14 degs. No issues in 2 summers. Fan coils are more effective as you can run 6 deg water through them.

A video to watch https://youtu.be/kVaxAfXQPDU?si=nIsu2BUM-O5wMIQM

To do a DC connection to an immersion you either have to impedance of the PV with the immersion. Or get a dedicated DC to immersion to mppt tracker. First is cheap (the immersion to PV) as it's the price of the correct immersion. The other is stupid expensive. To make best use of the PV you need to be grid coupled. So you need panels and an inverter. The price I quoted above was for a full kit AC coupled.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/27460-diy-gshp/

But within a week of being installed you will never look at them again.

One side of the heat pump system in the ventilation duct (extracting waste heat after the heat exchanger in MVHR) and the other heating a buffer or similar?

I have just moved back to batch charging the floor. On really cold days just let it heat later in the day if needed based on thermostat. Pretty simple WC curve is good enough, use a low hysterisis thermostat, set a slightly elevated thermostat temp to kick process off, I use 21 at 00.30 to coincide with E7, let the heat pump run until about 6 am, then the thermostat is set 20.5. if house isn't at 20.6 the heat pump continues running until it is, by 9 am house is at 21 generally. If excess solar is available that tops up floor via heat pump being kicked on, to get a CoP of 4 to 5 from free solar. Whole system runs on a single thermostat and a shelly relay, to override the thermostat for use of excess solar. Due to long run time of heat pump, CoP over the day has barely changed. CoP today is 4.45 including hot water heating.

So really just a thought process - so just getting a the compressor and the two heat exchangers. But initial thoughts Do not dismantle the refrigerator circuit. One HE in one bucket of liquid and the other in another. Both buckets connected to 2x 1000L water tanks. One would be heated the other cooled. The heated one would be insulated, the cold one not. Cold one may need an external cooler (car radiator and fan). Then run when above 3 degs only (no defrost needed). Hot IBC would have a long 25mm coil inserted for heat transfer.

Something has been going around head for a few years, but never done anything about it. Heat pump dryers get cheaper and are available second hand. Has anyone tried to utilise the heat pump as a heating system, could you? System is pretty much like any heat pump.

Last thing you want, is loads of grease clogging your vent ducts. Put the MVHR on the opposite side of the room. We did Indian at the weekend, recycling hood, with carbon filter (not even certain it got switched on for long). MVHR extract about 4m from hob did a fine job of containing nearly all smells. Not sure you need 3, 4 or 5.

What does your structural engineer say on the subject? Sorry would not leave this to price or that looks pretty. Involve a structural engineer, he will take account of load conditions on the house from wind etc, glazing company more likely to assume you have structural engineer input and they are just selling you a product.

When I first installed my cameras, I had loads of issues, turned out the security settings on my modem needed changing. Plus I had to ensure WiFi was set to 2.4GHz - not 5GHz. Also when I recently swapped modem/router, my home assistant could not be contacted. The issue there was to do with a 1 changing to a 0 on the modem IP address. Do you still have the old modem/router try plugging it back in you may need to go into the camera settings to reset to startup settings.

There is no reason for them to evaporate. Read, read a lot more. Building a house, isn't rocket science. You do one thing at a time step by step. We did ours during COVID, so made it easy to have single trades on site, because it was that or nothing. I revised and made sense of drawing most days, to make things easy for the trades. Using nothing fancy, just PDF editing. This helped us as client, make design decisions easier and ahead of the obvious question coming. Most important job, is being a dog's body tidy up after everyone has gone home, get rid of trip hazards, litter etc. double check what's been done is to your satisfaction. But you are there to answer questions, without them being answered in a timely manner means delay.

Air tightness layer, 50mm service battens, plasterboard. Did same treatment on walls and ceilings. Low profile down lights used, where fitted. 50mm also allows the led inverter thing space.

You're stupid building airtight - sorry worst advise

You do not need to be a master builder, plumber, electrician, etc etc. you need to have an overview what is being done, why and jointly assess risks with technical experts (trades). Also if you can't meets 4, you can't do 2 for example. Each discipline is the expert, they are called in at appropriate times. You discuss what there plan is; do they need other resources to be provided, i.e. scaffolding in not there or in the way. If the electrician wants to go live you make sure, with him it's safe to do so. If you can't assess, if your competent - good chance you are not. So get someone in.

So premise for the statement. To get BUS grant, need to design and install to MCS rules. MCS rules require room by room heat loss assessment and be able to maintain a minimum design temperatures, at outdoor design temp. You can easily borrow heat from downstairs, but only really true if you leave the bedroom doors open. There is also an understanding written into MCS, that the rules for design are not really applicable to what 'you want', as the person having the insulation, but also suitable for the next buyer(s) of the property. It's everyone's money being utilised to pay for the £7500 max grant.