JohnMo

And the spares, where did I put them? Bugger I've looked everywhere?

No, not high enough to mitigate wind disturbance Would they have applied?

Good indication you aren't getting much heat transfer.

What I notice with UFH cooling, it knocks of that uncomfortable couple of degrees at the high end, AND the house actually feels cooler than the gauge would imply. But importantly the recovery time to more normal feeling temperatures is way quicker in the evening.

Our last house had a fully insurance approved and maintained alarm. Out of interest, at one renewal time for insurance, I asked to quote with and without alarm and got the same cost. All these things were true if I declared the alarm. Kept the alarm, didn't declare it any more.

True

You have to be careful with hybrid roofs. Otherwise you end up with condensation issues, as you seem to be aware of. Suspect you already have issues, you have a vapour barrier at plasterboard and above it with bitumen vcl. So any humidity that finds it's way in the roof structure is stuck there. My thoughts are adding 25 or 50mm just isn't worth the effort. If you concerned with shrinkage get a thermal camera and see if you have issues. May need a cold night to see if you have a thermal gradient between inside and outside.

I assume this will be a professional installation, otherwise worth nothing as far as insurance is concerned? So would suspect the installer would be the best person to talk with and they would be well aware of the correct mix of components for a good glitch free install of your house.

Completely agree. Many on are talking about what if.. lots of multiple systems on one circuit etc. Who in the right mind would bother. You are royally ripped off on one system, so why would you buy multiple systems. Plus if your in a flat (the reason these systems exist) where do you put all these panels for multiple systems, most would struggle with a couple of large format panels.

Couple that to heat pump monitor, that will add an electric meter, a few bits and bobs, and you get full monitoring. We have the same heat meter. 4th or 5th push of the button also gives you kW as an instantaneous reading. You have dT available to read. Will give stuff like this, it's ace for understanding what really happening.

Just reread this. Not sure your expectations will match reality with wet UFH. So to throw a spanner in the works. Modern well insulated houses don't have warm floors with wet UFH, the UFH flow temps are just too low. You max flow temp is likely to sub 30 degs at the coldest outside temperature, and that doesn't give a warm floor. You won't have cold floors either, but the floor really will not be noticeable warm. Typically floor surface temps are 1 to 3 degs warmer than air temp depending on heat losses.

Your manifolds have the valves you need - the flow meters. Start with all flow meters on the manifolds fully open. Let the heat pump run for a day. If whole house is too hot, your flow temp is too high. If the odd room too high turn the loops in that room down a little. Reassess the next day, do some final tweaks. If the odd room is too cool, the flow temperature is too low. increase flow temp a degree. After a day reassess, some loops may need to be reduced. Now as your flow rate changes from the ASHP, the loops will pretty much self balance.

First your flow temp is too low, you need to increase a couple of degrees to around 14 +. 12 is below dew point. If house is still at 27 you need to flowing about 16, until house cools. Work out your dew points - plenty of tool online. Cooling via UFH is the same as heating low and slow. Suspect the noise is likely to be the floor complaining about you trying too hard and contracting.

What is your flow temperature, how are you operating, more info needed

I would have had it galvanised. You still could. It looks like paint was possibly simply painted after welding with little or no prep. It should have been blasted to Sa 2.5 spec and then painted. Depending on paint type most primers are an open film, so water gets below the paint surface and you get rust. An epoxy primer isn't so can be left in a primer state. For me (others will say otherwise) 1. Get them/it galvanized 2. Send to an industrial painter to be blasted and painted correctly.

It calculates kW as either a positive or negative dependant on heating or cooling. The kWh heat delivered scale is exactly the same as electric meter, it only adds it doesn't run backwards. So in cooling the kWh counter stays static Not exactly correct, it calculates kW then adds a time function to get kWh. Heat pump monitor software has a tick box in the settings to allow it to understand if you also do cooling and it runs an internal timer to distinguish between cooling and defrosting. Once timer elapsed it knows you are in cooling mode and attributes the correct CoP, SCoP values

It's the inverse of CoP, so if calculating CoP you just get a negative figure, exactly the same calculation. Take the negative away you get EER.

We did at one point very tightly control house temperature and it varied maybe 0.5 Deg. But depending on outside temp etc the way the house temperature actually felt changed, so sometimes you felt warm others cool (I'll put my jumper on). We have relaxed (simplified )that control and just use a room sensor to control everything, our WC curve is 26 to 28 degs, so almost flat. Thick screed (we have) is pretty slow to heat and cool down again. So what happens in our house, in heating season, the UFH generally ends up running at night and spends all day off, down to about freezing and then the heat pump runs for some time during the day also. Colder it gets the longer the run time. Room sensor thermostat set to same temperature 24/7 for heating with a 0.3 hysterisis. We get some undershoot while floor plays catch-up, but we are in bed then so that's fine.

Actuators - no need, then you don't need a buffer. Hitachi, are quite good, but you need additional widgets for cooling AC just do UFH cooling. Maybe find a new installer

If you set as 2x zones. One zone valve for upstairs controlled via a single simple thermostat. But not sure I would bother. Or accept the UFH upstairs output is low anyway with the more open centres on the pipes, just let it run with downstairs as a single zone, and accept the extra water capacity as insurance against short cycling. This would ultimately allow a lower flow temperature overall and better CoP. But you may find you minimum realistic flow temp in mild weather is actually warmer than you really need, in this case use the controller thermostat in a suitable location to act as heating permissions. In mild weather 7 to 10 degs, you find the heat pump only runs a few hours a day. So, one zone, use the main controller thermostat and almost flat WC curve.

Last year on our 6kW heat pump it cycled, depending on load, we averaged around 4 to 5 CoP over the day depending on a few factors doing cooling. This year with a 4kW it can run low and slow, our dT was about 2.5 degs. Yesterday's whole day CoP was 7.3 including standby time/energy. We only cool if there is solar gains, so we have plenty of PV also. So it free. It would almost always get clipped from PV also, if we weren't using it, so it really is free.

No I am saying heat via immersion. Plate loading as you say just adds complexity you don't need. CoP compared to energy input depends on quite a few variables. CoP isn't always a true measure of energy input as you have to heat pipes, local fabric and cylinder. But with a time of use tariff, what's the point of using the heat pump to heat the cylinder, leave it to concentrate on building heat and cool. Keep DHW simple. But if going down grant route DHW via immersion isn't an allowed option.

The correct terminology is EER for cooling and CoP for heating. In effect I actually get a negative CoP.

Set up to run long run for periods, this helps a lot. Plus our ambient outside helps.

Yes. Our soak aways are huge, compared to normal.