JohnMo

We have a sail thing which covers a seating area outside. But it does provide shade to a set of french doors also. Whole sun exposed front of house has a large roof overhang, depending on time of year, time of day is quite good other times not so good.

Think the mega wave stuff is straight out of China with a new badge. Would do an image search and see what comes up.

Our last house had them but installed inside the window. Didn't use them much but they transform the way the house feels. But ours were built in to the window frame 200 years ago. Having them inside has a number of advantages No wind rattling them. Or trying to pull them off the wall if not fully restrained. Friction of the hinge is enough to hold them in any position you want when inside. They keep heat out and in if you want. Safety, if you are trying to get out if the building on fire you can, on the outside not sure you could. You can add a layer insulation to the inside shutter and make it thermally ace. Not sure I understand that point

For the cost of manifolds, swop the manifolds for proper ones. These are the first ones I found many other options out there, they just screw together to make as many outlets as you need. Others in the site https://www.bes.co.uk/riifo-plumbing-manifold-3-4-x-1-2-valved-outlets-4-port-red-levers-27474/

The biggest advantage of a manifold is the isolation valves in my opinion. They allow parts of the system to taken offline while the rest stays active. No a no valve manifold is a missed opportunity. Just look at Screwfix they offer a couple of different options.

You'll be digging deep in to the pockets. Have you considered a ducted unit or is that not practical?

Why shutters?

That's no way to talk about @Nickfromwales

If your adding airtightness think about a ventilation strategy now. That's fixed with ventilation. You need a flow path from dry room to wet rooms. I would do Greenwood CV2 or CV3 dMEV fans in all wet rooms and humidity controlled trickle vents in dry rooms only and undercut the internal doors for a ventilation path. Least amount of ventilation, but ventilation when you need it, and where you need it. Then make the rest of the building as airtight as you want and know it's ventilation is taken care off and all ventilation is controlled not uncontrolled.

Cool Energy do them. Panasonic and Daikin maybe, pretty similar to the Myson iVector 2. Have a look at Orion Air sales also they do a range of them.

I bought a generator for that, way easier to install. Then replaced that with a 13.5kWh battery with gateway for full power and never needed generator since

Think we are in the same ball park. Its just playing with dew points at different places in the system. The additional cooling adds an few extra degree of dew point movement. The additional HE can be anywhere in the system really, the outcome pretty similar. The energy in/out equation and dew point effect still gives the same answer. Adding the additional HE can work in summer and winter. Cooling and heating effect pretty small a few watts per m² but steps in the correct direction.

Yes. MVHR and actual cooling ability is pretty rubbish as flow rates are small. I was talking about management of humidity margin in cooling, so the RH is actually lowered by the MVHR. Having the unit upstream of heat exchanger cools the air and causes it condense, then it's reheated by the outgoing house air via the heat exchanger changing the RH. Net effect is lower RH when compared to outside air. One of the issues in winter with MVHR is it lowers the humidity levels too much with prolonged cold outside temperatures, you are just duplicating those effects to your advantage.

I was thinking about this last night also. A coil upstream of the MVHR unit (outside to MVHR leg) would cool the air and cause condensation which would reduce the moisture carried by the air. Condensation would be cleared away by MVHR drain or drain within heat exchanger. As outside air travels through heat exchanger it is then heated by house air temperature, diving RH to a happier place. Then run MVHR as normal and get lower internal humidity and more dew point safety margin.

Aren't you better to run the MVHR at the normal speed. Then the MVHR actively pulls the humidity out the house, moving dew point upwards.

Not if oxygen is really the issue as you get more airtight, it's dilution and getting of excess CO2 and removing moisture. Other thing you will notice as you get airtight is opening an outside door doesn't blow through the house, unless you have a window open as well. As it has nowhere to blow out off.

But remember MVHR only changes house air every 2 to 3 hours, so in cooling/heating terms pretty rubbish.

Please help me understand? A fan takes the internal (24°C) air out, through a heat exchanger. It partially cools the incoming air currently at 33°C If house is cooler than outside The heat exchanger is a counter current one, so the air entering the heat exchanger from the house and leaving the exchanger to enter house are at the same end. This gives an approach temp that is very close. So if air in house is say 22 the air being pushed into house will be sat 23/24. So will warm house up over many hours. Warmer inside than outside the air is warmed to very close to the inside air temp, this will cool the house but very slowly - many hours. In summer a bypass around heat exchanger operates to allow cooler outside air to by go around the heat exchanger.

I can work BUT Flow rates are pretty much multiple times higher than normal MVHR flow rates as set for BR or Passivhaus. Download datasheets read water flow temp requirements, air flow required and kW of cooling output

Is it insulated? If so it should straddle the insulation where we that is, other than a set distance. If not insulated then any distance to suit how things look

Start a new thread, include model and size. Mine has moved to hot tub heating duty and I replaced with a smaller heat pump. Do you have the full version of the controller manual? Both R290 and R32 are available online.

You can easily add them, I just read the flow and return temps of the heat pump and or performance monitoring.

That is just a set up issue, are you running a fixed flow rate? Hydraulically separated etc. what heat pump? That is generally ok short term, but if your heat pumps decides to latch on and over long period can lead to condensation on floor surfaces and lead to slips and falls.

I am a NIMBY blamer, we have had land compulsory purchase for road improvements, no issues with that as is for the greater good, less people being killed on a road next to us which is an accident black spot. Main electric line is being improved again near us to help move wind generated electric from A to B, we are within the area of notification so it's all pretty near to us. Again no complaints from me it's for the greater good, but plenty of others who can't see, won't be affected by the changes are complaining.

Me thinks you miss understand me. No the very opposite is true, from proper sources I do trust the figures - ONS is one of them. We are a wealthy society, look at the amount of pretty new cars are on the road these days compared to the 70s. But the money allocated to councils, roads NHS, schools isn't well spent. So as @Indy points out stuff is going in the wrong direction. Your rose tinted specs may not allow you see it. All very true. But certainly in Scotland we have almost the same road system as the 70s. Back to one of my original points, change is way too slow, not helped by continued changing of plans to keep many a NIMBY happy. Which causes delays and additional cost. Aberdeen has a nice peripheral road now, but it only 20+ years to get started on building it.