JohnMo

Not sure what your missing, just searched for instructions and it tells you everything you need to do Manual_VORTEX_S_H_Installation_v5.pdf

What's you heating requirements in kW at -3? If no heating system why not modern storage heaters, this would allow you to run on off peak electricity, to massively reduce running costs. Also if you PV, charge the storage heater with excess PV to make running the heating in shoulder months free or almost.

We had 30 degs yesterday - cool by England standards, but we still pulled 50+kWh of heat out the house by UFH run in cooling mode. Including heating DHW, used all of 11kWh of electric, all provided by the sun FoC via solar PV.

Couple of issues I see. Building a gabion you need to place stone, if you just tip them in the shape just balloons. The height you have will not allow placement. The bigger the gabions are, the more difficult it becomes to make them nice looking, without time of patience. Thickness is for stability. Infill, you would normally have a veneer of nice stone the majority of the infill can be rubbish stone. Are you expecting to retain or just have a wall of sorts? A gabion where you have it wouldn't bother, good chance it won't be straight, and a bit wobbly.

Mine is a Maxa, but a bargain from eBay, about 70% off retail. Look here https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/air-source-heat-pumps/products/pro-inverter-air-source-heat-pump-ce-ih6plus Or just go Panasonic.

That's different.

Gee, I would need to increase my MVHR airflow rate by 4 to get 3kW cooling! No wonder it doesn't really do much.

Why, when they are cheaper to run, no £100 a year standing charge to pay for having gas. They can cool, gas/oil boilers can't.

Around 7kW but with lots of shading morning and evening. Yesterday was mostly sunny so do 28kWh, should do 30 or so today. Looking at the battery data without trying 935kWh has slipped into the grid since I got the battery, so £140. If I stopped diverging power to heat pump and immersion that export would be 2 to 3 times, without any effort.

People you really need to start looking at datasheets and cooling output data. Adding humidity to air when the airs RH is low will cool the air. HOWEVER, we are can island nation, RH is generally high, so effectively you are giving money to share holders and get almost nothing that helps in return. If you want to try, first buy a cheap humidifier, switch on, if that has no effect, your research is done. You lost £30, or buy a unit install in the MVHR if it doesn't work you lost £1k plus

Hope your house is a behemoth of a house he hates them.

Firstly now have a 4G smart meter, commissioning time was about 10 mins. Spoke with Octopus just after commissioning to change tariff (16:00 on Friday) and am now on a smart tariff (Saturday 08:30). Octopus mini hub is also being delivered today. Decided to go Octopus Cosy. Super easy battery scheduling, should never run out of cheap rate electric, not super cheap but 12.65p per kWh, 2p cheaper than my E7 tariff. Have used Wonder Watt to schedule times. First cheap slot is setup as a smart schedule so it charges based on forecast generation of PV, second slot set to 90% SoC fixed target. 90% chosen so it does not interfere with immersion or heat pump diversion, and by this time, if the smart charge is ok the battery should already be above this level, so will only come in to play if forecast is wildly out etc. Final charge is set for a fixed 100% SoC. May need to tweak over the coming days, but will see how it pans out.

Heat geek have and have a video out there somewhere. To get best CoP you need the biggest coil you can get in the cylinder. Then your flow rate through coil has to be slow, the idea is the return temperature needs to be as close to the bottom of the cylinder temperature as possible. You then prolong the heat pump increasing flow temperature for as long as possible. Heating time extends but so does CoP. Talking high 4s early 5s for DHW CoP. My ASHP is factory set for DHW and there are no settings to change. So cannot replicate the above.

Have looked at them, seems a good range of modulation, very good price. Is it worth bothering with MCS rubbish to save a couple of grand. ASHP for the heating, then a small direct cylinder for your space available? Optimise the UFH to make the most of the heat pump?

It's one of those things you need to do your own leg work. I ordered all mine from company A, a week later priced had changed and company B was way cheaper. Prices are in constant flux

Fair point Computherm Q20RF is selectable between heat and cool. Adjustable hysterisis down to 0.1 degs. I used when I was batch charging, very good with very little overshoot.

The other option is to do away with thermostats altogether? Just let the ASHP look after itself. No idea of the connection sorry

A video of a similar setup here https://youtu.be/34slE6b6V_4?si=E3g0r9JgsCUmVTdf

Something like this h the bigger the plate pack the better. https://beetbg.com/products/copy-of-dhw-plate-loading-30xplate-kit?utm_source=copyToPasteBoard&utm_medium=product-links&utm_content=web

Understand that side, but I am interested in the cylinder side how water is moved about. Do you have link to make of cylinder?

That's interesting, how does the cylinder water get heated? So ASHP on one side of PHE that's using the circulation pump from ASHP, but happens on the cylinder side?

We have recirculation hob extractor. But we placed the kitchen MVHR extract as far away from the hob as we could. We have a white foam filter sock on the terminal, it only ever has dust in it, never greasy. Ventilation extract position it as important anything else. This is the inside and outside of the sock after 6 to 8 months

But you need to run an additional pump as well. Not sure it's that much better CoP in reality. This morning at 16 degs outside I got a cop of 3.68 doing DHW heating and yesterday afternoon at 22 degs outside, I got 4.11. Ideal 210L slimline HP cylinder, which has a 3m² coil.

True, I just use what my ASHP seems to be using, churning around 1m³/HR.

Do your research on modulation on any model you choose. Our 6kW gets down to about 4 kW only. Ours it turns out, is really just a derated larger unit. Looking at it's outside temp kW output is a clue. Ours puts out an almost flat 6kW at 30 degs OAT and -10. A suitable sized compressor would loose kW output as it gets colder outside.