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Bit of an update... I spoke with BPC toadying and they've suggested a slightly different approach which I'll certainly try. One of the things they said was that having all the vents open could actually decrease the overall flow due to less back-pressure. I was quite surprised at that but every day is a school day, as they say! Also, I had quite a few windows open (as it was very warm here) and apparently that does have quite a large effect, so will need to address that next time. It'll probably be the weekend before I can get on to it again and I'll give the new approach a go before I try anything more 'serious'!

Not that easily no (it's all taped, sealed etc) , although I suppose I could just cut a slit in the flexi duct and then tape it up afterwards.

Hmmm... something's not right, as you say. Before I get to butchering up my equipment (!), I'm using a reducing cone into a 1m length of 100mm duct - the anemometer is probably about 90cm from the vent. Could this length of duct potentially be causing a problem? Also, I've just re-tested as follows: all vents fully open. Extract rate = 80.6 l/s Inlet rate = 59.9 l/s ran the system without any filters to see if that might have an effect. I only measured the extract side as I ran out of time Extract rate = 97.3 l/s So it's looking like the dirty filters are having an effect although replacing them won't solve the problem. Would you expect to see a proportional increase in flow rate with boost speed? Just thinking that 59.9 l/s is roughly 290 m3/hr (at 50% boost), which is about half the 666 m3/hr quoted, allowing for losses. One final thing, I suppose it could be the anemometer itself although I'm not sure how I'd go about getting it tested

I've finally got round to balancing the MVHR and am more than a bit worried by the figures I'm getting. I've followed @JSHarris excellent write up (and spreadsheet) and am using a Testo 405i in a 1m length of 100mm diameter straight duct with a cone to go over the inlets/extracts. The system is a Vent Axia Kinetic High Flow (max flow rate 666m3/h) and the house has a floor area of about 305m2 with high ceilings upstairs - I'm guessing at a total volume of about 1000m3. Buildings Regs is looking for 92l/s (trickle rate) but on Boost (50%), I'm getting just 62.5l/s extract (about 225m3/h) and 57l/s inlet (205m3/h) with all vents open between 50% and 75%. Opening the vents more changed the balance but didn't appreciably change the total flow rate. I've attached the work-in-progress spreadsheet for reference Now, I do need to replace the filters and I'm sure that doing so will improve matters, but surely not by the amount required! Am I doing something wrong? I know I can fudge the figures but at this stage that's not something I'm looking to do. Starting to panic a little now if I'm honest...

Every time I finish a job, 2 new ones crop up - just want to get it finished and signed-off now. Would quite happily do another though...

I'd just spent the day clearing long grass with the brush cutter and was just 'finishing off' by tidying a few bits near the house when it threw a stone out, straight at the glass. I should have swapped for the strimmer - I'm an idiot

The Internorm glazed panels are fully glued in. I don't think it'll be easy, quick or cheap unfortunately. And I can see the lead time being 'weeks'

I wish it was that easy ? I feel sad...

Totally gutted. Through sheer stupidity I've managed to smash one of our Internorm triple glazed panels - I'm trying to numb the pain with alcohol but it's not having much effect. Please someone, tell me it's an easy fix and I shouldn't fret about it. The OH is saying not to worry but I can't help but...

If you want to deter people from coming round, then get security cameras. I haven't quite got round to fitting ours yet and this happened last month... A couple of videos from the ring.com video doorbell 11:43pm - https://ring.com/share/6508829689333376523 11:46pm - https://ring.com/share/6508830466722457099

The former. I'll dig out the details but it won't be until tomorrow I'm afraid

It's absolutely no issue at all. We've been in since early October and won't complete for a month or two. Sorted out insurance on that basis too (a bit more expensive than normal but not that bad)

If you're going to be cutting slabs, this knife is superb for the job http://www.axminster.co.uk/hultafors-fgk-insulation-knife-117109 Normally I'd just have picked up whatever I had to hand but I can genuinely say that this made the job so much easier

Hi @TerryE - I'm not confusing the two issues, far from it. In terms of the number of dropped kerbs I'll stay with what we have - I'm just a bit disappointed as it would have helped visibility a bit and also annoyed by the fact that on the Sunday the contractor was happy with what I asked for but the following day he said the Council told him 4 days earlier he would have to do 1 less. I think he's lying. I think they just 'did the job' and then when challenged made up some story so that they didn't have to re-do it. I've looked around the area and there are plenty of the same size (or larger) than I wanted. Anyway, I've just ordered myself a new car so all is good in the world again!

I'm not going to refuse to pay - I'm going to pay them in full and then wipe my hands of them. I know it'll be easier for me to swallow the cost and get the job done properly than it will be to have to keep chasing them - they should have done the work in September but only got round to it last week!

Have a look at https://www.cctv42.co.uk The guy is a well-known and respected used Porsche salesman (don't let that put you off). You will get good and honest advice.

No, not paid yet. But given that they did such a bad job and that I know I'm going to get someone else to re-lay the tarmac I'm thinking I'll get the second firm to do it.

Thanks for the help chaps. I've now been able to see the work properly in daylight and it really is a very poor job they've done. Not one of the kerbstones they've installed are bedded down so they all move slightly; the tarmac was whacked rather than rolled so the finish is pretty rubbish; where they've finished off by the driveway could easily have been lower (as I wanted) and still met the criteria they mentioned. It's so bad I'm not even going to ask them to come back and will get someone else to do the work! In terms of the chap that popped around it seems he is also street works certified (checked him out). I may or may not use him but he is an option at the moment. The document linked for Cheshire West is very useful - thanks @Ferdinand It has a couple of potentially conflicting statements though The surface of the crossing should have a straight crossfall where practicable of 1 in 16 (maximum crossfall 1 in 12) from the back of the footway to the back edge of the kerb The back of the crossing should be at the same level and/or gradient as the back of the footway either side of the crossing. Due to the poor state of the pavement generally and the fact that the contractors arbitrarily took some high spot each side of the gateway the slope is way more than 1 in 12.

We've just had the kerb in front of our driveway dropped but I'm not happy with it and am getting conflicting information about what is allowable and what is not. Hopefully one of you guys can help A bit of background info... The house is in a rural area. The gravelled drive area is quite large, slopes from the road to the house and we have made a new gateway opening (no gates now or planned) at the front of the plot. We have permission to drop the kerb. Our normal groundworks guys don't have the street works certs or insurances to do the work themselves so they recommended another local firm. We wanted to have 7 dropped kerbs plus 2 transition ones as we want to have as wide a gateway as possible to help with visibility, although I can't actually remember what went into the application, whether that aspect is relevant or not. They did the work this week and there are a couple of problems. Firstly, they only dropped 6 kerbs. They told me (after the event) that the council only wanted them to do 5 but compromised on 6. They said that the council told them this last Thursday but we had a site meeting 3 days later and this wasn't brought up even though I pointed out exactly what I wanted doing. Secondly, and more importantly, it's become almost impossible to get in the drive without grounding the car! The slope of the pavement from the road to the drive makes a significant peak at the threshold as the driveway slopes towards the house. They said there is nothing they can do about this as the pavement must be a consistent height apart from where it drops at the road-side and therefore, we must 'fix' the driveway. Now, the following day a chap knocked on the door and spoke with Lynne. He was another street works guy (or so he claims) and commented about how bad the work was! He made some comment about the kerb stones themselves (which look ok to me although I've not looked too closely as it's always been dark) but mainly he spoke about the height of the pavement where it meets the driveway and said it should be lower! I gave him a call yesterday and he basically said there were limits on the number of dropped kerb stones, but we would be within the limit at 7 play 2 transition ones. He also said the pavement should dip down where it meets the driveway. So 2 things that contradict the first guy and that I have an issue with. The second guy claims to do work for the council and also claims to be street works certified, although I have no proof as of yet. I can't find any regs online anywhere and I'm loathe to speak to the council as I might just get the pavement re-tarmaced in a few weeks/months and I'd rather not alert them to the fact! So, who is right? The initial works cost £1450 and the second guy has mentioned an additional £600 to re-tarmac plus an additional £150 if we want an extra dropped kerb In the meantime I've added some additional MOT1 to make getting in and out easier but it's not a long terms solution.

You'll have forgotten how cheap he was if he makes a mess of it

Just call BT directly and say you want to a phone line with them. If there is a line they will get it activated, if there isn't they will take steps to get one installed. Ignore the developer form stuff - in your case at least, you don't need it.

@nod We looked at Nolte kitchens (they have a big showroom inWrexham) - not too bad, better than many. With all kitchens though, a lot comes down to good design and their design was a bit bland in all honesty. We ended up buying a Xey kitchen from the Cheshire Kitchen Company. Similar price (maybe a little more expensive) but waaaaay better quality. There is a Xey dealer near Preston but I don't think their design side is that great. I would, however, recommend CKC - they put a lot of emphasis on design and will do bespoke detailing so you get exactly what you want. They aren't a high street store so need to focus on service rather than relying on footfall. If you do call them, speak with Matthew and tell them I sent you

@TerryE We used the Click Definity range - they have exactly what you need https://www.scolmore.com/_pdfs/definity.pdf We have the double plate versions (with 3 RJ45 and a twin co-ax socket)

Cat6 will carry most signals you will realistically need so just shove as many down there as you can. And make sure it's solid core, external grade, ideally shielded

Do you have a number for GSI? I called 'a GSI' and they couldn't/wouldn't help