PeterW

@Moira NiedzwieckaYou can’t run UFH off a UVC - you need a thermal store to do that. Who has designed the system ..??

Standard clause where trees are present. Requires a fence to BS5837:2012 to protect the base of the tree and it’s root system. Easy to do with a couple of bits of Heras fencing and some scaff poles. See Page 20 for the design - you need to work out your RPA from Appendix D

Hatched areas mean block or brick. The two stubs are to support the inside edge of the chimney stack above but I assume what he means by those is them standing on a lintel that spans the full width of the opening just outside the outer skin of the building. This will need to most likely be an RSJ as i can’t see a concrete lintel spanning 8 ft or more and taking the load. The demon joint in all of this is going to be getting the frame to chimney breast air tight - if this was me I would sacrifice the 100mm all round and build a block work cell that will enclose the fireplace. This can then support the steel, and then in turn you can then seal this inside and out to the frame opening. First with foam and then with air tight tape both inside and outside to create a “closed” box. This can then be clad outside (with a cavity) and then inside (tight to block) once the floors are in and the brick levels are known. The only issue with all of this is closing off the roof of the inglenook as these are usually inside the building so non structural and yours is going to be part in and part out. I had considered suggesting beam and block but that sounds overkill ..!!

Fireplace will be built twin skins with insulation between. That needs to be min 150mm if you are wanting any reasonable thermal performance. Chimney can either be a liner hung from the cowl down an open block work hollow and terminated top and bottom (mega draughty and crap thermal performance) or built with standard flue components and sealed properly and then insulated all round with vermiculite. @Ed_MK Flues are one thing you can’t make up on the fly - read the regs carefully !! Faults here have the potential to kill. What have Potton drawn on the plans ..??

So from the Kensa site, this is interesting..!! “...it is important that a sufficient quantity of glycol antifreeze is added to the cooling and heating circuit fluid to avoid freezing of the fluid in cooling mode...” So this seems to indicate it’s a cooling issue rather than a freezing in use issue.

Yep it won’t come off any time soon.....

Funny you say that as I thought the same but the info I’ve got from a GSHP supplier seems to indicate this is the requirement as their FAQ states the ground can never freeze so it’s not for that ..! I’ve considered using mono propylene glycol and an inhibitor mixed as I’ve got to sort a 60 litre buffer too so have close to 25 litres needed ...

Glycol in GSHP is used to transfer the heat - it is a more suitable medium for low grade heat transfer as you are talking about changing the liquid temperature from 6-8c repeatedly. ASHP fluid run at higher temperatures and usually only require the standard antifreeze levels although the short lengths of pipe properly insulated shouldn’t need antifreeze. The units themselves potentially need protection however using a frost programme to fire pumps would solve that anyway.

Glycol is only needed in GSHP... ASHP can run with standard Sentinel products and don’t tend to degrade as much.

You can’t DIY blown bead but the cost is so low compared to other methods it’s just not worth trying to even work out where to start..! Quotes for graphite bead were around £1600 installed for 150 square meters at 150mm cavity. Think that’s £70/cuM and comes with a 25 year guarantee. It was installed in 2 hours ..! Cavity Batts came in at around £60/cuM for the same thickness but there is then Labour abd installation on top.

You can do it top to bottom but you leave the last 6” loose so you can get the next bit under and create an overlap. Downside is that your battens need to be perfectly measured as the bottom row is the one that you use to gauge from as it goes into the guttering

Only issue is cost - you will need £135 worth to do the average garage floor twice... Thats a lot of brooms and washing up bowls and tins of No Nonsense grey !

Twinwall has to be exposed to allow for inspection so you can't build it into that chimney. Stainless liner can be suspended from the cap but it looks crap tbh...

You could put it round the back where the store thing is and it would be sheltered. You would probably want an 8kw one just because of the size of that TS

ASHP ..?? I’d consider it ..! Set it to 42 and put it into the bottom of the tank and then let the boiler just do the top up ...

So it prioritizes hot water... And its heat input into the air is quite low - shade over 2kw at 160 m3/h so that isn't going to warm a place quickly, this is aimed at low energy houses. Combi 185 BP is suitable for dwellings, where a high heat recovery rate and a low energy consumption are requested, while energy of the extract air is used to heat the supply air and the domestic hot water. The energy is recovered in the counterflow heat exchanger first and then the heat pump uses the residual energy. Combi 185 BP can deliver an air volume of up to appr. 325 m3/h at an external pressure of 100 Pa. http://www.genvex.dk/en/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/COMBI_185-BP_UK_print-1.pdf

Yeh you probably saved a couple of quid a pot... ?

Fairland Orilux 8.2Kw Change of £800 and takes offers... CoP figures don't look too bad either, comes with its own controller too

Pick one.... for less than the price of a cheap combi, you can pick any of them in reality as most are chinese made. Something with an inverter driven fan would be preferable along with some sort of controller but essentially you can run them pretty constantly anyway and there is not a lot in them to go wrong.

That won't work..... You need a constant flow at 34-36c and I doubt a Genvex can do that

They are a refrigeration unit. Search for air conditioning engineers and you will find hundreds - a service is as simple as check the gas pressure, clean the evaporator and a general check over. I have 2 AC units serviced every year and they take less than an hour each - takes him longer to get the protective cages off !! A quick search on Yell gave me this list... https://www.yell.com/s/air+conditioning+services-northern+ireland.html

That will be quite slippy and very expensive for a garage floor ! Why not just use one of the epoxy non slip floor paints...? At least that can be redone fairly cheaply

To "melt" the PCM58 you need to output a temperature higher than the phase change temp - that is the limiting factor

Sorry !! For those that don't need the eRp rating stuff, there are loads of brand new 5kw and 9kw Heat pumps on ebay at the moment for less than £1k delivered.

I doubt it could cope - the heat output isn't massive on them and you would be quicker with a small mono backed up with immersions