PeterW

Foil has lifted so it’s a replacement door.

Yes - looks like it is below some sort of damp proof course so is likely being driven out through the moisture in the lower bricks. This can happen irrespective of ground conditions though and when bricks are laid that are very wet for example.

@Simon ness you’ll need environment agency approval to abstract water from the spring. You’ll also need to make sure your sewage treatment is as far away from the source as possible, and ideally find the source of the spring too as the last thing you need is someone diverting it or removing it. Whilst it sounds like a lot of flow, I’d be looking at minimum 3,000 litre storage (this could be an underground tank near the pipe) and then pump to the treatment point at the house with a 500 litre accumulator.

I had a spreadsheet somewhere that calculated rainfall from 3 years worth of met office daily data for the local area and then looked at how much was used to get the tank capacity needed. I think it was around 3,000 litres in the end but there were still days where the tanks would be empty based on that. Once I got to 5,000 litres then it started to even out the peaks and troughs.

Sadly that has changed in the last 48 hours as it was cheaper than that a few days ago - another supplier trying it on !

Lamona sell spares but these are rebadged AEG from memory and Ransoms sell them in packs of 4 - M4/44mm screws. https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/cookers-hobs/aeg/screwdoor-handlem4x44-a2k-/652525.htm

that is too hot for the wundatherm system under engineered wood. wait for winter …. You can exercise the manifold pumps by just switching the isolator off on the ASHP and triggering the thermostats and the pumps / actuators should open. Nothing more needed as tbh the screed will be dry ( or I hope it is now you have engineered flooring over it ..!) and the rest won’t need any drying out.

lots available online such as this one https://www.rainwaterharvesting.co.uk/tank-size-calculator/

That is how the old quarterly billing system used to work on estimates but it used a rolling 5 quarter average to calculate estimates. The companies are rather clever as Bulb for example doesn't do much with readings and has a random usage generator that I think means you are kept within 10% of a previous month. I did an exercise last month with them and gave them 3 daily reads one after another at 3 days before the bill was due. What I found was a regular 4/2 peak offpeak usage per day, but when the bill came they had estimated 3 days at 6 and 5 units per day respectively…! So 150% on peak and 250% on offpeak actual usage. The issue for them is they say that your payments are for the upcoming month, yet with a forecast of around £75, they are still taking £133 and will only drop that to £111 “to stop debt build up” despite being over £180 in credit ..!

as below - increases ground contact and helps increase conductivity

Have you tried jet washing them ..? Need to know what it is to start with - looks like salts but could also be dilute emulsion paint.

Floor sensors aren’t good to stop extreme temperatures - you need to isolate that issue at source and put proper blending valves on the manifolds. When running multiple rooms in a zone I prefer to use the Salus auto balancing actuators as they will regulate flow and temperature - you then just need a simple (programmable) thermostat per zone and wire it to all the actuators in that zone. as others have said - upstairs will be 1-1.5°C warmer than downstairs and MVHR will not move that much heat around.

No gas ..? And does the heating work overnight on E7..? Have a look at the Go35 tariff from EDF.

Yes you can do it just in the controller - I just have remote access via the app as it is of use to me.

pay someone. There is no way you can do that using ropes as you will get them caught on the scaffold, plus you need to scaffold either side of the join which means on your neighbours property. Also, if you remove that join and make it watertight on your side and the neighbours leaks, you are liable !! And your insurers won’t help you as you will have caused wilful damage by neglect. For the sake of probably £1500 tops, it’s a couple of days job - probably longer to get the scaffold up and down !

Newark Copper will custom make whatever you want including much thicker insulation.

Yep you’ll need 300mm drop after the tundish before any bend - given most tanks are 14-1500mm up when the PTRV exits the tank it shouldn’t be an issue.

so if it’s hardness that is the issue, fit a softener ..?

You need the minimum distances as per G3 to ensure the water isn’t 100°C/steam as it hits the stack but other than that it’s fine.

It’s quite complicated to do it as the inverter normally needs to “see” the mains to get its phase signal so using a switching isolator to dump to the immersion first without going via the CU will be problematic. What may be more use is twin immersions - set the top higher than the bottom and use the bottom as secondary dump load. That way you’re only heating a smaller part of the tank but it’s the “useful” part unless you’ve run a bath and drained the tank. It’s also usually above the boiler thermostat so won’t let the boiler trigger if small amounts of water are drawn off.

A 500 litre tank sorts that - you take the oil flow temp to 70°C then let the solar do the rest.

Yes but you cannot use polyethylene pipe - you need to check the spec and it has to be stamped BS EN1451 which is usually polypropylene. ABS and solvent weld are also not suitable.

Any of the black foam stuff is fine - I’ve even used scouring pads at a push !!

Yes as 50°C is too high for UFH Yes Most controllers do that now - use the self balancing actuators from Salus and save yourself a lot of issues. No you won’t as condensing is a function of return and flow not just flow temperature. Expensive and pointless - use a manifold and actuators. What happens when TRV closes and blocks the flow while the pump is running ..??

Yep - I’ve seen the demos at the shows and tbh they get everyone from kids y to your granny doing it. Buy bagged mortar from Wickes/B&Q and then it’s premixed and you’ll get consistent results. This and a spirit level and take your time and you’ll be fine.