PeterW

Why not ..?? It needs a 12mm copper pipe, this can be run in the floor or even to a domino unit in a utility room ..? Unless you have some sort of external garage then a diesel backup generator is a non-starter as they are big and bulky. There are a couple of big brands - Panda is one that springs to mind - and they use voltage sensing and grid disconnects to manage the loads etc. The problem with all of that is that when you micro breaks in your supply you can end up triggering the genset for 5-10 second starts that are really bad for the units. You'd need to spend £7-8k on a decent setup, and then add in £500 for a diesel tank (500 litres) and you’d also need to run at least half of that off every few months as red diesel doesn’t like sitting. Add in £2-300 a year for servicing and genset replacement every 15 years for TCO.

Nope - doesn’t seem to show old ones on any application.

Seen these a few times and wondered how good they were. Trick with drilling block is always make the hole the correct size, and use a decent drill bit.

Sorry but I wouldn’t screw anything into 25mm batten and hope it stays there ..!! Bolted to the blockwork is a must, 20kg on a 750mm lever is a lot of force for a screw to take.

If there is a guaranteed gap then you could use the GripIt Blues - I’ve put radiators on with them and they recon you can put a tv on a wall but.... wonder if they would take the weight so far off the wall..??

120mm would do - don’t drill all the way through the blocks and then just set them in the blocks with the washer and no spacers. Undo the nut, fit the spacer washers and then tighten up.

@zoothorn Ok the 4m is a Building Regs limit, not a planning one. Also a max of 30sqm for not requiring building regs either. PM me your post code and house name / number and I’ll try and pull the proper map for you to outline the property and areas you could put something in.

So you need a decent mount like this. https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/ps-fmsat446d/full-motion-tv-mount-with-tilt/dp/ST04042 Then it needs bolting to the wall, but not crushing the plasterboard. quickest way is to mark the bolt holes on to the wall, then carefully drill some 25mm holes through the plasterboard. Drill the centres for some decent M10 Stud Rawlbolts - don’t bother with anything else - and then use a stack of washers to bring the surface flush with the board. Fit the bracket and tighten the nuts up. This pushes the force onto the wall though the studs and washers, not the plasterboard.

Reading the google reviews that are really eBay complaints .?? https://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalog/rubi-du-200-l-bl-wet-tile-cutter.html read the ones here

Thats a manual cutter though - for a snap and score it’s not that bad. . Rubi 200 is a wet bench - yes will set you back £2-300 depending on model but they are a real bonus when you’re basically wet cutting 22mm limestone ..! https://www.tileexperience.co.uk/rubi-du-200-l-230v-50hz-electric-tile-cutter-25973

70mm is bare minimum and just meets regs. You can get 100 as seconds, do it 200mm thick and you’re laughing. It’s definitely worth doing.

200L from memory ..?

I used the Rubi that @Nickfromwales lent me and it was brilliant. They really are good but you need to look after them and also realise they are a disk cutter and not a precision laser ..!

35mm core drill hired for the day and it will do it with ease. Then push in some lengths of black waste pipe and job done. Every 6-900mm will be fine.

Huw’s Gray May be able to find these but search for Scots Commons as they look familiar.

So... As long as you're not in a conservation area, removing the roof and replacing it with another timber/slate/tiles would not require any PP or Building Regs as long as its under 30sqm total size.

There is a pipe decoiler in the BuildHub stock - @Nickfromwales probably knows where it is. Have you asked Wunda for a quote too..? Probably as cheap as U-Heat. And Nu-Heats guarantee is a little amusing as there are a lot of get out clauses ...

Have you got his email address..? Is it a generic gmail or something specific..? PM me the website

Right crack on then @Dreadnaught..!! Decent meter boxes here

Right .... and you’ve got to cut and dig through it ..?? What about anyone needing temporary access when it’s open ..?

If all that is on top of the cost of the connection, then I would do as @ProDave advised and go with a temporary housing. You can get them cheap enough and then mount it into a wall or feature later behind the gates. It’s all in your control then. Why are you having to dig under concrete out of interest ..?

My comment was on the Logix link ..?

Agree with what has been said so far. A £1.2m house in Oxfordshire is going to need some high end finish - at high end prices. You don’t get £1.2 value from a £2,000 B&Q kitchen so I would start with a serious question about budgets. If there is a house where you are now and the plot with house is only worth £450k, then doubling will need a serious budget. I’d expect you’re in the £650-700k build budget to get anything like that back. Sorry..... Can you do a rethink on the design ..??

So I take it you didn’t read those links ... “At this price level do not expect good or long lasting appliances as you are likely to be disappointed.” In other words they haven’t actually reviewed them ... or have any meaningful feedback ..! Kenwood is rebranded Hisense, as are a few of these. UK Whitegoods used to be a decent source of info and parts but they have become less of the info and more about reselling parts from China at prices not far off what you can buy from mainstream providers. And as they don’t actually sell Logik spares, why would they promote them ..??!

Don’t underestimate some of the own brand stuff. Curry’s Logix is rebranded Haier / Kenwood / other stuff and I’m impressed with one of the side by side frodge freezers. It’s an 800 wide rather than 700 and has double doors on both fridge and freezer that makes it easy to get stuff in and out of without a huge door swinging across you..!