PeterW

Anything will impede flow - what are they controlling ..??

Those Ross valves are about 14/15mm max bore.

No internal PIR, 300mm walls with U value of something like 0.26. How will you get that through DER/TER SAP etc..?? Have you massively increased the insulation elsewhere ..?? That is well above 0.18 which you would need to get for Building Regs.

Cavity lintels are lighter to handle and also allow various things like simplified trays and insulation. They are also cheap. @MortarThePoint what is your full wall build up now with 100mm EPS bead ..? 50mm internal PIR ..?

No... That screws onto the bottom of the tap, and will go all the way to the top tight under the tap itself leaving a piece of thread that the tap connector screws onto.

This is why I think you’ve got half a set ... Just get a couple of these and see if they fit through the shrouds - think they will. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/7367f

Standard Hep2O 3/4 pipe connector is 29mm diameter across the points of the nut. https://www.wavin.com/en-ie/catalogue/Heating-Cooling/Plumbing-systems/Plumbing-Hep2O-Push-Fit/Hep2O-PB-Straight-Tap-Conn-WT-15x34 @pocster what is the internal diameter of those shrouds ..? Measure across the outer of the fixing the grub screw goes into.

Yes although I have seen a slimline tap connector. Pretty sure it’s Hep2O but need to find the latest catalog

Ahhh ok ..! Odd that there was some flow though ..??

That is what should be there in the kit. As per this which I posted last week He’s got everything but No.4...

@pocster Someone has sold you half a kit. Remove ALL the fittings from the bottom of the tap. That’s the nut and the washers, leave the thread clear. Then the chrome bit you have released with the removing the grub screw fits tight onto the bottom of the tap. This then should have a 3/4” tap connector onto the bottom of the thread of the tap remaining which should allow you to connect a pipe into it which should be part of the kit. If not, you will need something like a 3/4” female to 15mm copper adapter that has a diameter of less than the inside of the shroud.

And National Tool Hire was £45 for the weekend when I checked - price is PoA but would haggle anyway.

Yes but by the time you have cut and inserted this lot, you would be better re-piping the whole lot with new rads and new pipework..! Use 10mm Hep2O to a manifold per floor and you can lose it behind skirting boards anyway. Your issue with using an isolator in the flow pipe is that if someone turns a rad valve off then you’ve lost flow

Got a Shelly on some outside lights which has impressed me so far. See they have now brought out a Shelly “shield” for a DHt22 which makes me think that replacing the dumb / binary type relay in the current setup may be easier and will allow fairly simple adjustment of the RH set point unless I can see a simple way of programming a Shelly to spot a rate of rise in RH (without resorting to Tasmota etc)

Lintel schedule should be on the plans. I use Condell for them and send a list and get them all together on one order - usually get best price and merchant can’t match it. Plans get marked up and they then get sprayed with a number and the blockwork next to the opening gets the same treatment so there is no mix up as to what goes where.

Yep... that’s why this bit has a join in it ... below there is the fitting you are looking for. External threaded bit goes into the floor plates and it all fits together as per the instructions I posted last week ... don’t try and force the grub screw, there should be an Allen key in the box ..

You bin the flat washers and the tap nut .... ??‍♂️

@pocster you nugget..!! undo the grub screw ..!!! All the fittings are inside the shroud ....!!!!!

Wrong way up... Shroud kit should have come with a top hat that screws onto the tap itself, and then has a groove that lines up with the grub screw. Also in the kit is a connector that you screw onto the bottom of the tap thread - one I’ve seen has a copper tectite sort of push fit for 15mm copper, another was a solder type fitting. Got the manufacturer details or the box ..?

It’s the weird bypass valve bit I don’t like / get as that is another set of issues all built into a single unit. What’s the manufactures warranty on those manifolds ..?

Nice to hear it’s sorted. I know @Nickfromwales likes those Ivar manifolds but you’ve just given me yet another reason not to like them ...!!

£100 worth of bits there in his home built system and you can hire the real deal for £50 for a weekend and it will be much more powerful. Also as you’re on a single pipe system you’ll only get the crud out of the pipes not the rads as it will follow path of least resistance.

Sounds like borrowing that power flush unit may be helpful but I would have a couple of containers of system cleaner going round before I did anything as invasive as use a power flush. You need to make sure all the joints are good as they can get a bit fierce. That magnaclean will also start taking some crud out as it starts working.

Is this a ground or first floor ..? Can you get interrupted to where the joists are set into the walls to see why they have dropped ..?? Lifting and packing joists with slate is possible with an acro but you need to find out first why they have dropped as it could be for a number of reasons.

Thats what I posted a few days ago ... the image I gave you shows the need for a threaded bottom bracket.