PeterW

pump yes, blender no as the ASHP will set the rad flow temp and the blender will only provide UFH temps (although I do partially agree with you it’s easier..) Yes there is a delay on wax cap actuators of around 1-2 minutes unless you use a motorised actuator such as the Salus ones which is why I would make one of the zones open anyway.

Flow restrictors are fitted to the outlet of the tap itself so they are always accessible. There should be nothing buried in walls.

None at all These have to be tracked and to be honest if you keep copies downloaded and screenshots you can see the changes. If that happened then... it’s fraud.

Expansion tank should be fine - is it 12 litres or more ..? And yes, you’ll need either a bypass or just have an open zone - bathroom or landing rads are good for that.

The consultation has started. It’s up to people to comment, and based on that it may go to committee depending on the scale etc. From the sounds of it this is a big development and it sounds like you’re not happy along with others. I would formally get your issues down in writing (especially the map issue but via the legal route) and also canvass neighbours and the councillors. Local papers are also good for drumming up support.

Ok so if stuff hasn’t been done “correctly” then the LA Ombudsman can get involved. Keep screenshots of the planning portal. Application form will give all details.

Diamond polishing pad on an angle grinder. But you have to be very careful

The application form on the council website will show you who has applied.

Validation is just that it has all the correct paperwork. Once validate they have 8 weeks in law to make a decision, but will need to send or post out details within a week or two of validation giving consultees 21 days to respond. Is it directly neighbouring onto you ..??

Bring the hot pipe up the wall past the manifold and rotate the isolator 180 degrees and then bring the pump into the top of the manifold.

TBH you can get them from anywhere as you can use a standard stainless direct cylinder - What pressure is the heating system set to run at ..?? And does the rad circuit have its own pump ..??

Errr ... where you have drawn it ..?? Seriously..! Just break into the bottom return pipe with a tee and then plumb the return pipe tee to the bottom of the buffer. Flow pipe, break it just below that lever valve and tee from the wall, bend and into the buffer at the top. If it goes direct into the top then put a vertical tee and then put an auto air valve. In terms of controls, parallel the call for heat with a tank stat on the buffer so it will always be hot.

Doesn't need to be the same - loft insulation is loft insulation. Just buy what you can get in 100mm ( or 200mm but remember the thicker it is the less coverage area in the roll) and it doesn’t have to match. See the Wickes links above.

@zoothorn sorry thought that said £250... £150 is still stupid prices though ..!! £50 a roll is a joke - so here you go, 3 rolls for £57.45 delivered by Wickes to the middle of Happy Valley Taffyland... Wickes link is here ... https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-100mm-Space-Bottom-Layer-Loft-Roll-Insulation---8-3m2/p/166877

Where are you getting £250 from ..??!! An 8sqm roll is £20, you are 2-3 rolls max missing.

Send the map you have received and the map you have obtained correctly with a note to the Council Solicitor by recorded delivery stating you believe a fraudulent application has been made but due to the sensitivity of the subject you do not wish your name to be made public nor communicated to the planning department. They have a legal duty of care to then respond and investigate - they also cannot divulge your details as the legal department in a council is accountable for privacy and data protection. Good luck ..!!

@RonDubber did you go to a Mitsubishi agent or Mitsubishi directly ..? There is no way to directly connect to a heat pump - they all use the same interface unit or Flow Temperature Control irrespective of the external unit and you should have been quoted for one of those also. The Heatmiser units just use the call for heat or boiler contact to close a contact on the FTC board (marked Room Thermostat from memory) which triggers the FTC to power up the external unit and set the flow temperature for the water etc. The only way to resolve is to get hold of an FTC unit. They very rarely come up on eBay or second hand as they can be connected to a newer external unit so you may have to bite the bullet and get a new one which are around £750.

Correct. It has the terminals for call for heat and the flow sensors etc

Thats not correct. Item A on the diagram is the interface unit or the flow temperature controller (FTC) that they are referring to. It comes as two parts - the first is the control box (A) that has no external visible controls, the second is the remote head unit (C) which is used to programme the FTC - this is what is supplied This is a standard Mitsubishi external unit. Depending on the model they either come with a 5 core control wire to the indoor unit that is not connected to internal power, or this sort that uses a 3 core to control the external unit, but requires it’s own fused spur in the house. Whomever sold that Ecodan minus its FTC, and then said you could just connect “something” to S1/2/3 was telling lies !! It’s a 24v proprietary control signal that the FTC manages.

The FTC being referred to is a Mitsubishi FTC - it is their controller. https://www.swatengineering.co.uk/shop/mitsubishi-electric-ftc5-ecodan-controller-pac-if062b-e It is the brains of the ASHP and can’t be overriden by using anything else onto those connections as they are proprietary comms lines.

Make one ..?? Will it be visible ..?

It just squashes down and comes back when you take the board off so stop worrying. You won’t damage anything. You need as much as possible up there - get the layers in ..!!

What is the full wall build up, and where does he want the protection added ..?? Quickest way is replace any outer OSB layer with cement board, and then the battens become the only issue but they tend to accept this.

Is the house in a street scene or standing in its own in a plot with no real reference points ..?

stuff a lot of insulation down them as 50mm is nowhere near the regs.