Pocster

As a LL I would consider selling RRB on the way - more hassle costs , you’ll want rent guarantee insurance. Sell it , pay CGT , then make maybe 5% on a hassle free investment?

To have them you mean ; call points ? New guys argument was they could be accidentally hit . This would of course generate the siren to go off . But , if there was a real fire the smoke detectors would go off . So you could in theory have 2 different sirens going off - confusing the occupants?? I’m just trying to be legally safe .

This is a follow on from my post about intermittent fault on call points . Fire guy came out today . Ultimately he said I don’t need call points and therefore don’t need the panel ( regardless of the fault ) . So 3 floor house . The issue is original fire company have been saying as there is a panel it needs testing every 6 months . This is correct afaik . What pisses me is IF they said “ you don’t need the panel or call points mate “ - then it needs testing every 12 months I.e cheaper for me . I just want to check what’s correct here before I go in a guns blazing !

Perhaps stop tipping piss and shit down the sink ? 🤣👍

I’m pretty sure I did like a dwarf wall of insulating blocks ( they were some funny size I.e quite small ) cemented to the beam and block . Damp course , timber frame and studs ontop . Then insulated floor , ufh , plastic sheet , screed . All was fine ( and still is )

I had this issue after 4 yrs of no issues . I tipped the unit back further as water would somehow leak out the front panel . I had one condensation outlet on the left side. Magically water appeared in the right side . Could not find any issue so did indeed install a drain each side with a dry trap on each . To date no issues .

It was fine for a few years and then random faults started to appear . Electricians etc have all looked at it even with the fault ( light ! ) present . Nothing ever found . I agree ; as a rental I’m not going to touch this … Probably get panel and call points all replaced first . Another guy looking Monday foc …

What do I do if my hole is much bigger ??

No idea . Being dicked around by fire alarm company who want £165+vat to look at it . As the fault won’t be present then that’s pointless . But do have another company coming Monday to look for free … so I’ll see what he says , I’ll ask open / closed circuit on call points .

@Maplash just get on with it and learn / (expletive deleted) up as you go 👍

Though if you e got good WiFi - then I’m sure you could come up with some means of powering ? . YoLink stuff ‘claims’ years of battery life depending on type . Not tested that . I’m just blown away it worked over such a range and interfaces into home assistant well . I now know when postie has dumped a parcel in my bin ( not a euphemism ) . Little things please little minds ….

Check out YoLink on Amazon . It’s the U.K. frequency but they tend to bundle with a hub . They have an outside door sensor I want but only with a hub ; but I have a hub ! . I’ve emailed them !

Not sure how useful a binary door sensor in the bedroom will be ? . Worth a shot though

Isn’t that tricky though ? . Intermittent fault , resistor enough to stop fake fault but ok with real fault ? 🫤 Just sounds a bit bodgey ; as you know that ain’t my style 🙄🫤🙄

Yes . But I was informed by another that if a real fault occurred on the call point it would never register as a fault on the panel . ; if resistor installed . Tenant pushes call point , nothing happens , tenant burns to death etc etc … 🫤

OMG! LoRa WORKS! Went to the end of the street still a strong signal!. Amazing!!!

Sure . A great tenant on paper can turn into a nightmare . “ normal “ people who suddenly lose their job / breakup / breakdown - then you’ve got all that to deal with anyway . Lucky once means unlucky soon though … in my experience

Whilst it turned out ok - situations like this have 100 red flags . For all LL out there ; really simple rule - 1 red flag walk away . Because you are taking the risk not the potential tenant …

Not sure . Would assume just normally opened or closed . No complexity of an addressed device .

I was going too . But waaaaaaaaaay to obvious . I do have ( low ) standards you know !

No , PocsterAI did

It’s a rain diverter not a pervert website ( at least I don’t think so ) . Ah ! Re read your statement! . 🤣 shows how my mind works …

Yes . It’s very hard from photos etc to tell if they’ve got the height of the diverter correct relative to the butt top . Gutter mate seems easier . Because the flexi pipe inlet can be placed with out great accuracy. The gutter mate fitting ( on the down pipe ) is the critical point I.e level with butt top .

Yeah but now China knows what you are doing ! . This is how they will dominate our world !! arranging our paving is the thin end of a big wedge

Rental . Smoke alarms are interlinked and have no control panel . Honeywell control panel is just for the 4 call points ( still want to call them break glass ) . Randomly it will show a fault on one . Panel beeps to alert you . Enter code , cancel beep , then reset panel and ‘fault’ disappears There are only 3 components here ; panel , all the call points , the wiring . I’ve been told a ‘load resistor’ can be put across the call points to prevent it showing a fault . The supposed call point that fails appears to be random also . This resistor doesn’t sound particularly appealing to me . This ok though ? . Panel can go weeks or even months with no issues . My only other solution was new panel and call points . Then if still errors must be the wiring .