vfrdave
-
Posts
610 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Everything posted by vfrdave
-
I am not fitting boost switches for my mvhr as the wife and kids will simply not use them and was going to depend solely on the humidity sensor within the unit. On speaking with BPC they inferred that for longer runs ie over 2m not to rely on the in-built sensor as ideally you would want boost before that. Bathroom will be fine as it is more or less below the manifolds, en-suites are further away and I was thinking of using the room sensors but not sure if this is ideal as it will boost unnecessarily, I know others have done this. The only other option I can think of is to use humidity sensors remote from the unit/manifold possibly mounted in the ceiling plenum in some way. Would the dhc-100 that @JSHarris used be suitable for this, though the sensor looks quite big? There is a round bit on the top of the plenum looks like it could be drilled out to take a small sensor fixed in place.
-
It is currently a 32/25/32 (think that is the right notation). I then have a 32mm plasson down stream
-
I have an outside tap temporarily on site, it has recently started blowing off the end of the of the mdpe pipe. It is more or less identical to the one in the pics. Anyone got any wonderful ideas to keep it on the end of the pipe and stop my water main gushing water endlessly until found on site.
.thumb.jpg.002c16287e738b12e6c1732e2cef6645.jpg)
-
Probably cause he is a bit of a dick, one of the plumbers I spoke with said he would do the same they might have been on the same job before. I guess you would go on sub floor and insulate hot pipes then put floor insulation around and on top?
-
Glad to know I wasn't too far off the mark @Declan52 just not put as simply as you. I also forgot about the wastes in the wall. Is it ok to have a joint in these at floor level, is there a best practice method when using plastic, or should I say the master Welsh man's way @Nickfromwales
-
Trying to sort out how much I still have to do before I let my plasters in. Have no plumbing done as yet but wondering how much first fix needs done. House is a bungalow and all block walls not a stud in sight. I have 3 showers, a bath and basin with wall mounted taps so my thought is this is the only pipe that needs to go in now. How does this get done in plastic with no joints, do I end up with coils of pipe until later? BCO has already said he wants pipe work sandwiched in floor insulation but obviously I don't want plasters tramping over that constantly. Am I missing something blindingly obvious?
-
I would fully endorse ubiquiti also, done a few installs for businesses and conference facilities. Will be using them in my house also if I ever get to a finished stage. Feel free to ask for any help/advice as @Dreadnaught says. Plug in range extenders (like those mentioned above) quite often reduce the speed and bandwidth of the connection they provide.
-
@oranjeboom mine is a new build traditional block build and no won't be passive standards. It is also a fair bit bigger footprint than Jeremy's.
-
@ProDave so mine is 5181 so this saying my house has a daily heat requirement of 5.2kWh not considering any hot water demand? Am I correct?
-
My heads away with so much build stuff rushing about in the mush of my brain. Just wanted to sense check my thoughts. I am using @JSHarris heat loss spreadsheet which is a great job. When people quote their calculated heat loss is it this field that they refer to (Total heat loss)?
-
@Declan52 I have one more question on this, concrete or sand and cement to fill?
-
Thanks @Declan52 Shatter the nerves that last 10mins but a good win nonetheless #YNWA
-
Sorry @Declan52 not sure I'm reading this right do I fill the front to the level the window board will sit on and leave the insulation board lower to allow for depth of adhesive and window board.
-
Is that not alot of adhesive?
-
I will raise the issue again with the missus, lost count how many times I have tried to get her to look at this. Do you mean pir?
-
Thanks was just curious, the little bit of plumbing I have done always just used PTFE on its own. Every day a school day. Not planning on tackling any plumbing.
-
So traditional build how do I close the cavity at bottom of windows and build up the cill level? How high does it normally come up, bottom of window and then window board? Not the best images in the world but will give you an idea of what I am talking about.
-
Boiler, buffer, thermal store or UVC? UFH with PV
vfrdave replied to oranjeboom's topic in General Plumbing
@oranjeboom I have sent you a PM with the pricing -
I have MVHR installed (or nearly 1st fixed) so another penetration to deal with. @Declan52 I would probably need 2 rolls to more than cover my bedrooms block so £336 going on gerband vario pricing plus the adhesive. Then there is the other tape at £30 a roll to cover the membrane to allow it to be plastered. It is more the time and hands required to put it up and how to deal with the electrician coming along with his hole cutter to put the lights in.
-
what is this goop?
-
Mine is a standard bungalow and just wondering with so many downlights should I just tape the plasterboard joints and the ceiling to wall junctions and put hoods/pots on the lights.
-
Boiler, buffer, thermal store or UVC? UFH with PV
vfrdave replied to oranjeboom's topic in General Plumbing
@oranjeboom which of the sunamps are you looking pricing on. I have pricing I got last week that I can share with you. -
I remember reading about this before just couldnt remember who had done it. So did you not use a membrane in the ceiling?
-
@dpmiller This is a bit of a last minute effort. Not sure I fancy the expense of battening out for a service void for the whole house. Most of the 1st fix cabling is already in. I have no idea what depth the downlights will be, haven't looked that far ahead. Treading water to keep the day job going and the build and family time.
-
Congratulations on getting moved in. Always enjoyed your updates.
.jpg.b23758c8c90c40f8d9c9b73a6bc1a40a.jpg)
