vfrdave
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Posts
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Everything posted by vfrdave
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I can use XPS or PIR. PIR would allow me to use a 150mm concrete floor.
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Thinking of getting my garage floor done so I can get the doors on and lock the place. What should my floor build up be? 100mm power floated concrete/100mm eps insulation? Is this ok for vehicles to drive on? Is there a particular EPs I should use for strength?
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Be careful with this I think the lites are passive poe so only 24v which not all switches will provide.
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The screed I am going to use is cement based (cemfloor) and apparently won't have laitence or need sanded so don't want to have to do it because of paint. Wasn't planning that, I'm not that mad. Don't want the screed floor covered in paint and then needing alot of prep to be able to tile to it.
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I am thinking about getting the house spray painted internally before 2nd fix. I am not sure whether this should be best done before or after finished floor is put in. I believe there is pros and cons for both. Before you arent worried about overspray onto the finished floor and how that might impact tiling in the future, however you are susceptible to more damage as the vast majority of plumbing would be done after this into the floor build up. To do it after finish floor you only have 2nd fix to worry about but what about the overspray?? Essentially I want guidance for when to do this inline with the thought of never to paint where you are going to tile.
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My site insurance covers self erected scaffolding. I also had mine all signed off by HSE before anyone was allowed on it. I got stung by HSE for working at heights, prohibition notices all round, resulting in so much scaffolding and their sign off.
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Just to note on the buying your own. I and many others on here have done so but it is kwikstage scaffolding not the bars and clamps job. Much easier to erect as it is system scaffolding and there is alot of guidance available on safe practice.
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Mine was up for around 10 months or so. Like many others I bought my own so was not rushed to get it down, the last 2 bays are still up to get chimney pots on. I have hopefully have it sold on to the next self builder, deal to be done this week all being well. I did work out what it would have cost me for the same period hired and I nearly fell off the chair.
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We need pictures, lots of pictures of these barns. Always fancied a barn conversion not sure now though going through this self build.
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This appears to still work.
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Hope you didnt get covered in hydraulic oil, hate that stuff.
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@JSHarris Jeremy did you ever post a full schematic and parts list for these? I assume it is working well. I have just realised after burying a 3 core cable that I should have buried a 5 core to carry back alarm signals from my unit. Now looking for alternative options and think this would very much tick the box. I think I would be happy enough to build it and code it myself.
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Transformer is on the pole and then goes underground up the side of a road serving several properties, we tapped into it in the roadside and came underground through the neighbours garden and into our land also underground.
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@dpmiller I am off a transformer but underground from the pole.
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My understanding is the connection card has to be submitted, I have to setup with a supplier, all before the meter is installed. Submission of the connection card triggers the meter being installed.
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One of these http://www.nienetworks.co.uk/documents/connections/nie_connection_card.aspx I already have a generator thankfully, just thought I could have got a connection made in the permali box. is this a spike? Not that easy in rock surely.
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I have got my electric connection in ie the cable has been run and terminated in my Permali box after some harsh words with Morrows on a Friday afternoon. Spoke to electrician this morning about the connection card and he said that he doesnt fill that in until after 2nd fix. Can I therefore not get a site supply in place now to work from until proper connection is done?
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I've got it in my arm hair and it's a pig to get out.
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@Declan52 I have been using washers obos but it is slow enough. Was hoping someone would say get this magic tool it's much quicker. A gas staple gun that would shoot into masonry would be the job.
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Is there an easy quick way to fit expanded metal into block work? I have quite a bit to do to cover the airtight Membrane where it is glued to the block work.
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I think that is what happened to them been largely dry and a surprise shower caught them out.
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I suspect this will be a 2 stage process. Hose roof from top down to remove as much of the granulated render from under tiles. Then, acid and rinse down.
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I can only assume that the granules that are left are hard enough to now not stain if they get wet.
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I think they covered some of it but the wind didn't help. The bits under the slate wash out with the hose. @nod should I use pure brick acid? Should I do this sooner rather than later? Would prefer to wait until guttering is on.
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Hi folks Grateful for some help again. It seems that when my k-rend chimneys were scraped that it went everywhere. As a result my slates seems to be tarnished with the colour and lots of k-rend trapped all over the place. The hose seems to dislodge the k-rend granules but doesn't clean the slate. How do I get these clean?
