Thorfun

yeah, I could potentially find a place for it on the ground floor. was just thinking that if there was already a pump in the basement then I could put it in the plant room.

yeah, we had these discussions earlier in the thread. it's a long way and a REAL ballache to run a pipe and @PeterW mentioned something about max distance for UVC discharge. primarily i need a pump to deal with the UVC discharge via the tundish. but i'm still thinking about a water softener which, if in the basement, needs a discharge to a sump/pump. so with the Aspen one with 2 inputs i could run both to it. assuming that the Aspen one is up to the job of dealing with the fan being hit with brown stuff.

what the Aspen pump has going for it is it has 2 x inputs. so i could potentially feed another device output in to it and kill 2 birds with one stone.

love pumps

+1. 🙂

hi all. resurrecting this as my UVC is now installed and want to find a solution before the heating engineers come back to finish off. they have suggested this https://www.aspenpumps.com/en-gb/aspen-pumps/tank-pumps/hot-water-economy as a potential solution and is substantially less that this one that @TonyT suggested from BES https://www.bes.co.uk/high-temperature-pressure-relief-pump-23745/?q=23745 @PeterW? @Nickfromwales? or anyone else?

I had a quote from one guy who wanted to use NuHeat. was stupidly expensive. I ended up buying the stuff direct from Wunda and doing it myself. Also, is your place a new build or renovation? what are the insulation and airtight levels like? most folk on here who have well insulated and airtight houses don't have any heating on the upper floor and they say they don't need it. are you sure you need UFH on all 3 floors? depending on the layout and insulation/airtight levels it's generally thought that electric UFH in the bathrooms is enough to heat the upstairs. might save you enough to be able to afford the ASHP here's our blog post for our attempt at laying UFH.

welcome. you'll find answers to most of your questions are already on this site! as you've yet to find a piece of land you'd be wise to spend the next few months while looking for land simply reading the relevant forums. you'll soon get an idea as to the answers you're looking for. best of luck with it all.

Seems expensive to me. That’s around Internorm quote we had for triple glazing iirc. Maybe shop around with other suppliers?

at that price those BPS towers look an absolute bargain!

just a quick Google and using Jewson as i have an account there and get a reasonable discount on hire. this tower https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/double-width-alloy-tower-2-5m-x-1-35m-x-6-05m-JTH1709L would cost me approx £140/week inc VAT. similar sized and labelled 'Industrial' at BPS would cost approx £1920 inc VAT. so if we presume you could sell it for half what you paid for it, let's say £950 then we're looking at breaking even if hiring for approx 7 weeks. the only thing to also take into account is the hassle of having to phone up and have it delivered every time you needed it whereas if bought it could be left on-site in a shed/garage and used as and when you want. realistically you probably wouldn't need it for a total of 49 days but it seems that Jewson only hire these for minimum 1 week period so you'd have to hire for the week even if you wanted it for a day. so that's only 7 uses over it's lifetime. i think i'll probably end up buying one nearer the time i need it but will re-asses nearer that time!

i presume the 'tall' towers come in sections so you can have height's UP TO the max platform height? it does look that way from the pictures but thought i'd ask. and, if so, anyone know what height each section is?

while i agree with this (caveated with the fact that i'm nowhere near close to being a professional plumber as my diy plumbing thread will attest to!) i would question the 50% less pipe for the second floor, simply because the room may not always be used as a gym. i do agree that you probably won't need heating on the 2F but for the very small cost of a bit more pipe i would simply lay it as normal and put a separate thermostat in the room so as to keep the heat down to the level required. that way if in the future it becomes a study, bedroom, play room or whatever that needs more heat than a gym you have that facility. just my 2 cents.

maybe stale wasn't the right word. i've gone through previous emails and it was said that the dirtiest water is at the top of the tank so it's good to overflow that. it might be sales BS, who knows? 😂

this one seems to have the same specifications as the Boss Youngman one you linked to! so could one say that they're equivalent?

"You can rely on the Boss Scaffold Tower to provide a safe and sturdy platform. With a maximum load of 275kg, it can manage impressive loads without compromise. It’s certified to BSEN1004:2004 standards, which tells you that it can be relied upon in a wide range of work environments. " so when looking for a tower it's the max load and BS standards that we're looking for and that makes it proper?

can you link to or give an indication as to what 'proper ones' actually means? i'll need a tower for working on our vaulted ceilings as well as maintenance down the line like cleaning gutters etc but, like @eandg i'm struggling to know what a proper and decent tower actually is and who makes them.

oooh....ooh...I know! you had some correctly sized walk-on glazing and @pocster came and stole it?

drive by shooting leaving bullet holes?

be careful about sizing the tank too big though as I was told by 2 separate RWH suppliers that the tank needs to overflow to get rid of 'stale' (if that's the correct word) water from at the top of the tank. if the tank is too big then it may never fill and never overflow. Rob @ rainwater harvesting did the calculations for me and suggested a 5000l tank for our roof size fitted the bill.

this is where it gets a little confusing as when the SE was designing the basement we were going for an internal type waterproofing membrane and waterproof concrete. but after I chose the groundworker to do the work their chosen basement contractor used an external tanking system and waterproof concrete so the wording on the SE drawings is slightly wrong. but there is definitely a membrane there (it's faded from red to white over time) but that will eventually be covered in 100mm PIR and then rendered anyway to add an extra layer of protection to it all. as a picture speaks a thousand words here's one that should explain it. 🙂 areas surrounded by grey are waterproof concrete (with the waterproof additive) and the areas surrounded in red have the external tanking membrane. products used were FIS Maxiprufe Plus (http://www. fisproducts .co.uk/product/maxiprufe-plus-2/) and also FIS waterproof concrete additive here's a better photo showing the membrane and lack of such in the courtyard. there's loads more info about our basement build in our blog showing the entire journey! should you wish some light reading and watching Timelapse footage and here's the entry after the basement was completed.

Cool. Will check it out. Thanks.

I thought multiple spot temperature readings was just on the Flir ONE Pro camera?

while I await a response from the SE I thought it'd be interesting to post a photo of our lovely warm (and dry!) floor in the basement taken with my new FLIR ONE Gen 3. 🙂

yep, permeable clean hardcore all around the basement to allow for free flowing of water. it was basically done to the SE drawings I'm glad I asked for the sump to be made deeper (it's 1500mm now) as the 600mm deep sump would be constantly overflowing if I hadn't and I'd be in real trouble! I've been through my old emails and the Civil engineers did originally design the sump to only take the ACO water from the courtyard. Also, originally the SE specified the land drain to be near the ground level but I asked if it would be better at the basement slab level and they said yes if the water was going to be diverted to the sump and pumped out but they originally specified at ground level so as to utilise gravity. so, tbh, this was all done at my request and I am to blame. but, I am planning on speaking to the SE to ask what ramifications could occur if I block up the 2 x 110mm pipes feeding in to the sump and just let the water gather around the basement. I will also ask if there's a potential solution out of this mess as I would love to not have to worry about the quantity of water entering in to the sump! if I can close it off as you've suggested then I will be one very happy chappy. I'll update on the outcome of those conversations.