Thorfun

glad i asked now.

ok. sounds like an interesting rule. might go with the 15mm short pipe to 15mm -> 10mm reducer then. at least i can remove it even if it does cost me a few extra pounds per connection

are you talking about the spigots? if i can't remove it then i'll need to replace the manifold! the brass hep20 manifolds are not cheap! and if i've got a spigot stuck in one port then it could be a problem.

I'm worried now. what if I **** up?

with these? https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-hx77-15w-push-fit-heptool-set/9951f

hopefully with those metal thin hep20 pipe removers? it's a good point though. i might have to return these and get normal reducers (short length of 15mm pipe into manifold to 15mm->10mm reducer) if you can't remove them as i'm bound to make a mistake!

my saviour as usual

looking for some quick assistance here please (probably from @Nickfromwales as the resident hep20 expert!). bought some 15mm -> 10mm spigots for my HRC pipes. they look like this: I can't fit an insert in the end that goes into the 15mm connector on the manifold. I presume that's by design? I just need a 10mm insert in the 10mm pipe that goes into the 'mushroom' end of the spigot? I've found some pictures on the web that show these spigots with inserts and some that don't! maybe Wavin changed the design?

Just because you can though, in my opinion, why would you go for radiators instead of ufh? Why take up valuable wall space with over sized radiators that won’t often be used when you can hide it all under the floor and keep it out of sight. Radiators just don’t make sense to me in a modern well built house. with the obvious luxury of a towel radiator in a bathroom to that warm fluffy towel to wrap yourself in post cleaning.

i didn't have PHPP done but this seems very logical. sounds to me like the OP's architect just can't be bothered or is looking for extra cash. @carou have you sent the heating requirements to a heating engineering company? they'd be able to advise on size of ASHP and emitter requirements?

might cost a bit too much on fuel to make it worth his while!

Our installer used to Alwitra Evalon. Went down very easily and hasn’t leaked yet! where are you based as if local-ish to West Sussex I can pass on their details.

CT clamps

You can set on-grid discharge to 0 but then if the power goes off you’ll have nothing left in the tank for emergency backup. the off-grid discharge set to 0 means that in a power cut you can fully drain the battery. my LuxPower inverter can discharge at a max of 3.5kW so yours is probably the same. Although mine is an AC coupled inverter rather than a hybrid. actually, looking at the spec sheet it does say 6kW AC output. But I couldn’t find what the battery discharge rate max was.

Just make sure the foundations are built correctly! I was on top of the brickie laying our coursing blocks and double checking to make sure everything was within tolerance. It was so accurate that the TF erectors only needed packers under the sole plate in one very small section. Ironically I wasn’t around the morning the brickie laid that bit and the self-levelling laser wasn’t level so he was a bit out, even with a string line! 🤦‍♂️ it took a lot of effort to ensure it was all accurate but worth it in the end.

understood. @ProDave is an electrician so he would know for sure! all i can say is i have 100A at the head and 100A switched fused isolator next to the head with 25m of SWA running to the house CU. so no de-rating here and it's been my electrician that has done all the work not me! i don't have any photos of the insides of the switched fuse isolator but i can go and take some if you want.

again with the caveat that i'm not a sparky and don't really know what i'm talking about, but why do you need to de-rate the supply? i don't understand this question? your head has an 80A fuse so you can use up to 80A on your home supply, right? what's the de-rating all about?

not much more than we paid to get 3ph over a new 1ph connection. even if we never use the 3ph i know it's there if we ever do want it. i can't say that your fuse size will go up to 100A with 3ph though, it might just be that you have 3 x phases on 80A fuses.

how much is 'a few ££s'?

I'm not an electrician by any shape or form but our head is on the boundary of our property and our CU is in the basement comms room. it's about 25m away iirc. we've got a 3-phase switched fuse next to the head in the meter cupboard and a 3-phase isolation switch in the comms room right next to the CU. Only a single phase is connected at the moment (only got a single phase meter) but I put the 3-phase switched fuse in as a potential to use at a later date. our head has 100A fuses and the switched fuses are 100A also. btw, the 3-phase switched fused unit was not cheap!

i have a whole dungeon basement for that

yup! just inside the backdoor so he can go straight in to the shower after a walk. also means we don't have to stand outside in the cold and rain to wash him off. it's a self-build......build it how you want it and don't give a **** what others think. 😂

not in our house! our spoiled doggy will not have to suffer the indignation of cold hose downs once I've finished. 😉

One’s for dogs and the other isn’t?

Everything (including the dog shower) needs it’s own feed so I can work on things and bring them online at a later date. The dog shower will not be finished before we move in so I can leave it isolated and work on it when I can. that’s the beauty of the manifold system!